Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys lookin at gettin a set of lenso d1rs for my r33 gtst

dont want to do anything over the top so no camber etc, will roll guards if needed and remove plastic liners

just want them sitting nice and flush with the guards...also car wont be lowerd too much as it has a kit so guards will sit about a cm or so above the wheel

heres some specs from the lenso website

WHEEL SIZE: 18x9.0®

ET: +15,+32,+40,+44

PCD: (5x100~114.3)

WHEEL SIZE: 18x9.5®

ET: +30,+40

PCD: (5x100~114.3)

WHEEL SIZE: 18x10

ET: +15,+22,+29,+36,+41

PCD: (5x100~114.3)

i hear the 18x9 +32 sit flush at front so ill probs be goin with that for the front,

question is from above what size will sit flush with the rear keeping in mind i dont want to run camber etc

how is that stupid? that is correct... 9mm more

imho go the 9.5+30 for the rears as it will look the same as your fronts.

9.5 + 30 is flush with no camber... i ran it for a couple of years

thx for the help guys

looks like id go

front 18x9+32

rear 18x9.5+30

with this flush fitmet ill need to get guards rolled n remove platic liners, i can remove platic liners myself, but who/where will do a good job of rolling the guards at a reasonable price?

how low do you wanna go?

fronts will only need the liner taken out if you slam it

180athid is te man fr al your guard rolling needs

cars got a kit on it, so wont be slamed for legal reasons, but wheel arch will sit above the tyre 10mm minimum may be more though.

180athid do i just pm him on sau...does he work at a shop or does he just have the equipment to do it afterhours?

hey man yeh leave your liners for now i doubt you'll need to roll them. Also id get ya wheels fitted up theres a good chance you wont need to roll em on those specs depending on ya height so save some cash for now can always do it later (roll the guards)

just so you know 10+36 will sit the same as 9.5 + 30 for outer position, if your wanting that fat look from behind id be heading down the 10" path. hope it helps :thumbsup:

Hey guys, really needing some help if someone out there is smart enough, I've tried researching and trying to learn but it all gets me confused =S

Anywho, long story short I'm currently building an R33 GTS-T RB25/30 with a custom wide body that i'm making myself lookin pretty sweet fiberglass btw, scissor doors etc, all metal fenders etc retained.

So the front body is 1 1/2" wider than original body, looking for wheel to sit out 1" past the original body.

and the rear body is 2" wider than original body, looking for wheel to sit 1 1/2" past the original body.

I have no problem at all rolling the front guards to fit, whatever it takes

I have no problem cutting and welding the rear arches to fit wide wheels past original arch (I'm a welder by trade)

Also after a decent dish! at the moment the car has 17" Sparco Racing rims can't remember width and offset.

wheels also have to get around the brakes without spacers / adapters

if you understand this and what I'm after, please help, I'm happy to take measurements, answer questions, etc.

Any help or advice greatly appreciated, just wanting to know if anyone has any idea what sizes and offsets i'd be looking for when searching for my wheels =)

easy man, you want to run camber ? guessing maybe not if its a widebody fibreglass scissor door autosalon style car by the sound of it?

if not just run a 9.5 +15 front or a 10+20 at a guess rear go an 10.5 or 11" with a 15 to 25 offset should do the trick.

but i have seen a widecustom 33 and the fibreglass returned inside too far to run wide wheels so hard to say without seeing what your working with.

actually just did a quick check for you.

if 9+30 is fairly flush on stock guards a 10" +10 will be 1.102 inch further out.

rears if you run an 11 +15 will sit 1.33 inch further out than a 9.5 + 30 which again is fairy flush on stock guards. None of this is taking into account stretch/camber/ride hieght but i doubt its overly relevant.

hey man yeh leave your liners for now i doubt you'll need to roll them. Also id get ya wheels fitted up theres a good chance you wont need to roll em on those specs depending on ya height so save some cash for now can always do it later (roll the guards)

just so you know 10+36 will sit the same as 9.5 + 30 for outer position, if your wanting that fat look from behind id be heading down the 10" path. hope it helps :thumbsup:

thanks mate, ill probs just stick to the 9.5+30 on the rear, long as its flush with the guards thats all i care about, cos i didnt really like how my rims on the na sat inside the guard

also with these specs front: 9+32 rear 9.5+30 what size tyres should i get?

Buckled a rim on the weekend...f*** you Wellington Road.

Long story short, I have D1R 18x9+32 all round...fronts looks reasonably flush but I always felt the rears could come out wider. Was going to put on spacers, but now that I need a new wheel, I'm seizing opportunity to buy two new wheels in a more suitable width/offset. Car is an R33 GTS-T with guards rolled but no flare. I'm not a fan of negative camber, but I want these new wheels as close to the rear guards without scraping.

What am I looking at offset boys? Wouldn't mind a 10" if I could pull it off (insert masturbation joke here) with the correct offset, but will this cut it fine with the suspension gear on the inside? Safest option seems to be 18x9.5+30 like Jason is getting, but will the extra 1/2 inch make much difference or will I be back where I was before?

Good idea on the offset calculator for inner clearance...

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

Outer guard clearance is alot harder to measure though, particularly as it's an aesthetic thing too. Just wondering from experience what people have seen on the rears with rolled guards and no flare.

i have the 17x10 +15 on the rears, but i have slightly stretched rubber, and a bit of camber to make them fit. like you said, your not keen on camber so i think the only other offset they come (in NZ anyway) is +35, so i guess they are your only option in the 10" rim???

Got the XD9's on my car now, fronts are 18x9 +20 rears are 18x10 +18 (thanks to alr33x and joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo's recommendations!). Rear guards were pretty stuffed though from apparent (poorly done) old crash repairs on the right rear so the paint is all majorly cracked around the guard from being rolled pinch.gif next stop paint shop/panel beater it seems, probably need to flare the rears a bit anyway.... Anyway here they are in glorious shoddy camera phone form whistling.gif

post-74434-0-42750700-1297348259_thumb.jpg

post-74434-0-22390100-1297348314_thumb.jpg

post-74434-0-13722500-1297348370_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well it wasn't as easy as I thought.... and it also wasn't in my original manual which I did end up finding. They discuss the process in the Nismo catalogue though and it requires slight machining. Page 145.  NISMO PARTS CATALOGUE 2020
    • I'm an idiot, my intercooler is rated for 1000hp. I had clicked on the wrong product. Knowing the delta P would be nice, but I'm doubtful I'll do it. Now as for an EMAP, that would be great and I'll get around to it eventually but from my findings in my last post, I'm considering a turbo swap now. 
    • You sir, big win tonight. Precision never supplied compressor maps in the past and Idk when they started, but it seems they only offer for a few of the older gen2's which is exactly what I have. I punched in some numbers and seem to have gone with the wrong turbo. 600-700whp isn't in the most efficient area and is close to the choke line. 800whp is well off the map. Punching the numbers into a 68mm gen2 turbo map is bang on in the center. Here I was thinking going smaller would shift the power band down, but in reality it would just make it so much worst due to my rev limit. I would have never thought. 
    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
×
×
  • Create New...