Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone looking for purchase a set of Gramslight 57D for my GTT. I had read a bit of the old post here, some say they can run +20 to 22 all round without any problem, But most people do +35 to +30 offset. I have no idea which will be the best offset for the GTT. Current with HKS hyper Max 2 coilover with 1 and half finger gap all round and RPF1 18 x 8 F, 18 x 9 R and +35 offset. I think that combination is quite nice for GTT. The problem is the 57D ONLY come with +38 or +22 offset Is thinking of 18 x 9.5 +38 F and 18 x 9.5 +22 R, or +38 all round? Planning for using 245 40 F and 265 35 R tyres. I am after something without guards roll, no stretch tyres and no massive camber. Please help Thank you.

For anyone that is interested, I went with the 18x9 +18 all round.

Skyline model = 1998 R34 GT-t

Wheel model = Enkei RP03

Wheel diameter = 18

Wheel width = 9"

Wheel offset = +18

Tyre size = Front 245/40, Rear 265/35

Modifications to fit = None

Here is the result (looks pretty good methinks...)

post-66054-0-06221000-1338867082_thumb.jpg

post-66054-0-03590100-1338867093_thumb.jpg

post-66054-0-96903400-1338867106_thumb.jpg

post-66054-0-24561700-1338867115_thumb.jpg

I've been thinking about getting a set of rims that look good, but didn't necessarily have the width that I would have liked. it comes in 18x8 19x8 and 20x8.5.

Now I know most people seem to at least run 8.5 on the rears. I would like to do much the same, however with the available sizes, that would mean running 20" rims, which I don't intend to do.

Would anyone still be able to recommend 8" wide rims as nice; or is 8.5"-9" have particular advantages I'm not seeing atm?

Skyline model = 1997 R33 Gts-t S2

Wheel diameter = 18

Wheel width = F 9.0/R 10.0

Wheel offset = F +45/R +48

Tyre size = F235 / 40 R275/35

Modifications to fit = None , but it doesnt fit! Tyres hit on the inside, How big spacers would I need to get this to fit?

One more question

To sit absolutely flush on a r33 gtst s2 , which tyre size and offset is most preferable with only mods required being rolled guards. Scanned over 45 page of this thread but unable to see if a general consensus had been reached.....

20mm front and back should be good..25 would be ok too..are they andypandas wheels??

he had exactly the same size for sale.....theres pics in his sale thread...i believe he was running just 20mm spacers at the front and it sits pretty good

here it is..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/382672-wtt-volk-f-zero-18s-with-near-new-federal-595-rs-rs/page__p__6104041#entry6104041

20mm front and back should be good..25 would be ok too..are they andypandas wheels??

he had exactly the same size for sale.....theres pics in his sale thread...i believe he was running just 20mm spacers at the front and it sits pretty good

here it is..

http://www.skylinesa...41#entry6104041

wow , you have no idea just how helpful that was :)

No these are completely different wheels but with the exception of not being white, they are exactly the same....I had them on my supra for the past 2 years and they have 275's at the back.

with the 275's , would 20mm spacers still be adequate so it has sufficient inner clearance?they are hitting pretty bad right now to the point of not even having enough space to bolt the wheel on.if not will the 25mm spacer suffice? Id prefer to fit these wheels then swap them

something like this?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEOTECH-NISSAN-5-Stud-114-3-25mm-Bolt-Wheel-Spacers-/130708637330?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6ed78692

Edited by tripsteady

Hi, i'm struggling to determine whether or not the following will fit:

Skyline Model = R33gts SII (n/a, 4x114.3 hub, puny calipers)

Wheel diameter = 18"

Wheel width = 8" front - 9" rear

Wheel offset = +30

The wheels i want to order are called Wolf S1P's

http://www.wolfwheels.co.nz/wheels/high-performance/s1p.html

anyone running a similar size/offset? opinions on the offset? Will they fit ok? If so what size rubber

Love this thread, help really appreciated, thanks.

Hi, i'm struggling to determine whether or not the following will fit:

Skyline Model = R33gts SII (n/a, 4x114.3 hub, puny calipers)

Wheel diameter = 18"

Wheel width = 8" front - 9" rear

Wheel offset = +30

The wheels i want to order are called Wolf S1P's

http://www.wolfwheel...rmance/s1p.html

anyone running a similar size/offset? opinions on the offset? Will they fit ok? If so what size rubber

Love this thread, help really appreciated, thanks.

Those will fit.

Tho as usual, depnding on ride height, camber n tyres- fronts might rub the guard at full lock especially with suspension load. Rears might need the guards rolled.

Nonetheless, should fit well/look good.

wow , you have no idea just how helpful that was :)

No these are completely different wheels but with the exception of not being white, they are exactly the same....I had them on my supra for the past 2 years and they have 275's at the back.

with the 275's , would 20mm spacers still be adequate so it has sufficient inner clearance?they are hitting pretty bad right now to the point of not even having enough space to bolt the wheel on.if not will the 25mm spacer suffice? Id prefer to fit these wheels then swap them

something like this?

http://www.ebay.com....=item1e6ed78692

Mate, those are massive wheels for a GTST (and tyres).

While you may be able to get them to stop hitting on the inner with spacers they are going to stick out like bulldogs balls and certainly require considerable guard + suspension mods just to not hit the arches...

Mate, those are massive wheels for a GTST (and tyres).

While you may be able to get them to stop hitting on the inner with spacers they are going to stick out like bulldogs balls and certainly require considerable guard + suspension mods just to not hit the arches...

dammit , and i thought the r33 rear end looked fat enough to handle 275's. I plan to roll the fenders but didnt want to mess with the actual bodywork of the car...

sorry to be such a noob and ask again but can you confirm that 275's rarely ever get put on r33's unless guard work is done?

dammit , and i thought the r33 rear end looked fat enough to handle 275's. I plan to roll the fenders but didnt want to mess with the actual bodywork of the car...

sorry to be such a noob and ask again but can you confirm that 275's rarely ever get put on r33's unless guard work is done?

well it is fat enough n it isnt...

N funny you should ask. I run 275's on the rear of mine...

but there are a few things you have to take into account. my rim is 18x9.5+36. Which is about as good/wide as it gets for an R33 GTST when all other things have been considered. Any bigger/further in n you are going to be coming close to suspension n guards etc. Any further out n it will stick out from the guard.

I have had to completely cut my rear arch lip out to get these to fit. As you can see from the pic it sits EXACLTY flush with the guard (at the top) but the tyre does stick out further down the arches- so technically defectable, but its sticking out overall n at the top that is the main issue for a defect. n the boys have never bothered me about how mine slightly stick out. See pics attached

The second issue is that alot of people will simply run alot of camber to get big rims n tyres inside the arches. Well, ok, that works, but basically you are reducing the handling of your car AND chewing through tyres very quickly (and expensive tyres at 18"x275)- Its just not worth it.

Finally, have you ever used spacers before? often they will never sit perfectly and balanced which also means that you get some interesting handling characteristics and steering vibration. Oh yeah, n spacers are another thing to get defected for...

post-68049-0-05339600-1339564313_thumb.jpg

post-68049-0-08147100-1339564326_thumb.jpg

well it is fat enough n it isnt...

N funny you should ask. I run 275's on the rear of mine...

but there are a few things you have to take into account. my rim is 18x9.5+36. Which is about as good/wide as it gets for an R33 GTST when all other things have been considered. Any bigger/further in n you are going to be coming close to suspension n guards etc. Any further out n it will stick out from the guard.

I have had to completely cut my rear arch lip out to get these to fit. As you can see from the pic it sits EXACLTY flush with the guard (at the top) but the tyre does stick out further down the arches- so technically defectable, but its sticking out overall n at the top that is the main issue for a defect. n the boys have never bothered me about how mine slightly stick out. See pics attached

The second issue is that alot of people will simply run alot of camber to get big rims n tyres inside the arches. Well, ok, that works, but basically you are reducing the handling of your car AND chewing through tyres very quickly (and expensive tyres at 18"x275)- Its just not worth it.

Finally, have you ever used spacers before? often they will never sit perfectly and balanced which also means that you get some interesting handling characteristics and steering vibration. Oh yeah, n spacers are another thing to get defected for...

so technically , to get flush fitment , if I could buy the perfect rim (which for me would be something deep dish) it should be 18x9 +36 at the rears with 265/255's? What else would give close to flush fitment while filling out the bulging arse end of the 33 without any more mods then rolled fenders? and do 235's at the front do the job and sit flush? scared to mess to much with the front as those two wheels move a hell of a lot more then the rear :)

so technically , to get flush fitment , if I could buy the perfect rim (which for me would be something deep dish) it should be 18x9 +36 at the rears with 265/255's? What else would give close to flush fitment while filling out the bulging arse end of the 33 without any more mods then rolled fenders? and do 235's at the front do the job and sit flush? scared to mess to much with the front as those two wheels move a hell of a lot more then the rear :)

the fronts on R33's are a funny thing... having rims that sit flush means rubbing on the guards under turning/load. Iv got 2 skylines. 1 is getting close to flush and rubs (tho i would say not badly at all and very tolerable) with 17x8.5+32 with 235's. The other (car in the pic above) sits in a bit (i.e. is not flush) and does not rub at all- on this the rims are 18x8.5+36 with 235/35/18's.

Im sure once again camber or getting stuck into the front arch guards might fix it but thats cheating in my books, and fronts with camber on a street driven car will chew out sooooo quick.

does your car have coilovers or is lowered?

Edited by jjman

how do u reckon 17x9.5+18 will sit,

Pics would be amazazing!!!

Good on the rear, maybe a bit mexicano on the front.

I had 9" + 22 on the front and they sat just about flush with pumped guards. Those offsets stick out 10mm more.

the fronts on R33's are a funny thing... having rims that sit flush means rubbing on the guards under turning/load. Iv got 2 skylines. 1 is getting close to flush and rubs (tho i would say not badly at all and very tolerable) with 17x8.5+32 with 235's. The other (car in the pic above) sits in a bit (i.e. is not flush) and does not rub at all- on this the rims are 18x8.5+36 with 235/35/18's.

Im sure once again camber or getting stuck into the front arch guards might fix it but thats cheating in my books, and fronts with camber on a street driven car will chew out sooooo quick.

does your car have coilovers or is lowered?

well I do plan to add a small amount of camber but this is my daily driver so above all I aim to have stock drivability and comfort nothing to harsh , and certainly nothing that's going to rub at all.Don't mind being slightly above the guard if the front is going to rub.

No i have no coil overs or anything right now - deciding on which one to buy , the bc v1 look good. Wanted to get the wheels first so Il know how much to lower.....basically i want it to sit flush without rubbing anything with the only mods being rolled guards. Seem to think this is impossible now :(

the fronts on R33's are a funny thing... having rims that sit flush means rubbing on the guards under turning/load. Iv got 2 skylines. 1 is getting close to flush and rubs (tho i would say not badly at all and very tolerable) with 17x8.5+32 with 235's. The other (car in the pic above) sits in a bit (i.e. is not flush) and does not rub at all- on this the rims are 18x8.5+36 with 235/35/18's.

Im sure once again camber or getting stuck into the front arch guards might fix it but thats cheating in my books, and fronts with camber on a street driven car will chew out sooooo quick.

does your car have coilovers or is lowered?

I run 18x9.5+12 w 235/40/18 allround, tyres tucked. not cambered and not flared... I get no scrub... it's all in the guardwork

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...