Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That fit is prefect. I can't believe they fit that well with just a roll!

How do you think the rear would go with a 255/35? Probably need a pull to get it under you think?

I've got the 9.5 +22's all round on a 33 gtst, and i am running 265's front and rear. Only a guard roll and splash guards removed.

I'm running about -2.5 front and -1.5 rear.

No scraping/rubbning at all

I've got the 9.5 +22's all round on a 33 gtst, and i am running 265's front and rear. Only a guard roll and splash guards removed.

I'm running about -2.5 front and -1.5 rear.

No scraping/rubbning at all

Much poke with that size on the rear? Pics?

awesome fitment im looking at 9.5 +15 all round on 235/40/r18. So 2mm further in on the front and 8mm further in on rear. How much camber are you running and what work did you do to the guards.

Cheers

i'm running 225/40 on the front with -3 camber it scrubs when i drift but it will depend how low you go to notice scrubbing. On the rear i've got a 235/40 but i'm running 0 camber at the moment and have a pre existing flare of 25-30mm

I have trawled through this thread and it seems no one is running a very aggressive fitment on a ER34 coupe. Everyone has shitty offsets with little if any guard work.

I am purchasing Varrstoens 2.2.1 18" wheels. I was initially thinking 18x9.5+22 front, 18x10.5+30 rear, but after talking to a few people and looking through basically every post in the entire thread, I have decided it is not flush/aggressive enough for my liking.

What I am not sure of is if the guards are the same front and rear. If they are, I am thinking 18x10.5 + 15 all round. Only problem is it may scrub inside the guard on the suspension or arm, which I have no idea how much clearance I have. I can't really go 18x9.5 because the lowest offset they offer is +12 and that is (I am quite sure) not enough poke for what I am after. I plan on running 245/35 on the 10.5 or 225/30 on the 9.5. I have my guards rolled, I have the front liners removed, I have up to -2 camber from the coilovers and I will put camber arms on if needed. I don't really want to flare the guards.

I need some REAL opinions from people WHO ACTUALLY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT.

Shoutout to nisskid for helping thus far.

Edited by voncina

I've got the 9.5 +22's all round on a 33 gtst, and i am running 265's front and rear. Only a guard roll and splash guards removed.

I'm running about -2.5 front and -1.5 rear.

No scraping/rubbning at all

pics???????????

I have trawled through this thread and it seems no one is running a very aggressive fitment on a ER34 coupe. Everyone has shitty offsets with little if any guard work.

I am purchasing Varrstoens 2.2.1 18" wheels. I was initially thinking 18x9.5+22 front, 18x10.5+30 rear, but after talking to a few people and looking through basically every post in the entire thread, I have decided it is not flush/aggressive enough for my liking.

What I am not sure of is if the guards are the same front and rear. If they are, I am thinking 18x10.5 + 15 all round. Only problem is it may scrub inside the guard on the suspension or arm, which I have no idea how much clearance I have. I can't really go 18x9.5 because the lowest offset they offer is +12 and that is (I am quite sure) not enough poke for what I am after. I plan on running 245/35 on the 10.5 or 225/30 on the 9.5. I have my guards rolled, I have the front liners removed, I have up to -2 camber from the coilovers and I will put camber arms on if needed. I don't really want to flare the guards.

I need some REAL opinions from people WHO ACTUALLY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT.

Shoutout to nisskid for helping thus far.

just pull the guards... it's a cheap import, not a bentley

if you want to put 10+15's all round you are going to want to pull the guards or run a LOT of camber. depends on how much power you want to make really.... if it's more than stock then i'd look at pulling them reasonably far so i could run the rears a little flatter.

you will get away without flaring, but you'll definately need to pump all 4 guards.

it's only 10mm more than what i'm running on a 33, and 34 guards seem to sit abuot 10mm further out and i managed it pretty easily and it's flat enough to put down 300+ rwkw

here took some better ones.

18x9.5 +22 with 265 hankook z221's

rears have 7mm spacers

Looks mint! I cant believe the 265's sit like that on a 9.5 +22, especially on the front. I think when i get new wheels, ill run a thinner tyre on the front and dial out a bit of camber to help with tyre wear.

What was the reason for the 7mm spacer in the rear? Inner scrub issues?

rota grid 18x9.5 +20 all round,

Those should only sit out 2mm more than the +22, yet the front sits out a fair bit more than other photos. I know yours is a 34gtt, but i didnt think they was that much difference between fitment for 33gtst and 34gtt.

What camber are you running front and rear? Loving the colour/look of your car !

yeah funny how the fronts look like they stick out more than the rear, but i get that with mine also, its hard to get the rears looking more aggressive than the front on a gtst, you car looks very purposeful, show and go...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...