Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Been looking at maybe getting some Touchdown TD136 rims from Cartel for my 33GTST.

How easily could I fit (F) 18x9.5+22 ® 18x10.5+25??

Also, does anyone have any of these rims on their car that they have a photo of??

Cheers all.

Ok, I've since found out only the 18x9.5 +22 clears the brake calliper in the Varrestons on the front.

Might be a bit too aggressive fit

Hey mate, are you saying the +30 option for varrstoens WONT clear the brakes on the front?

I was thinking of going 18x9.5 +22 rear and 18x9.5 +30 front as the fronts poke a bit more and im not really after that.

This is on a 33 gtst btw

Hey guys,

Been looking at maybe getting some Touchdown TD136 rims from Cartel for my 33GTST.

How easily could I fit (F) 18x9.5+22 ® 18x10.5+25??

Also, does anyone have any of these rims on their car that they have a photo of??

Cheers all.

I have pics on the last page of 18x9.5 +22 (-2 camber stock guards) 18x10.5 +30 (0 camber slight pump/flair)

Hey mate, are you saying the +30 option for varrstoens WONT clear the brakes on the front?

I was thinking of going 18x9.5 +22 rear and 18x9.5 +30 front as the fronts poke a bit more and im not really after that.

This is on a 33 gtst btw

Yeah, it doesn't clear the calliper according to the guy from Varrstoen

HELP OFFSET EXPERTS HERE:

Im trying atm to work out how far the wheels i am looking at buying , will stick out from my guards on my R34 GTR

Currently i have 18 x 10 +22 and looking at buying 18 x 9 +10 from my calculations the +10s will stick out .5mm less from the guards than the +22s .

Basically got the width of the rim 9 inches x 25 mm = 225 mm give or take and halved it for zero offset = 112.5 mm minus 10mm offset = 102.5 mm

10 inches x 25mm= 250mm = 125mm 22mm offset= 103 mm

Can anyone confirm this ?

Thanks

Edited by NISSAN GTR

Plenty of examples +22 fronts getting around. It's too much poke if you like driving your car anywhere.

As for the rears not sure. But last seems quite aggressive.

I have pics on the last page of 18x9.5 +22 (-2 camber stock guards) 18x10.5 +30 (0 camber slight pump/flair)

Cheers guys. It probably is a bit aggressive for a daily, so I think I may have to reassess my options.

Would I be correct in saying (F) 18 x 9 +30 ® 18 x 10 +35 would fit ok?

Cheers guys. It probably is a bit aggressive for a daily, so I think I may have to reassess my options.

Would I be correct in saying (F) 18 x 9 +30 ® 18 x 10 +35 would fit ok?

That will sit inside the guards, and I hope like hell it'll clear your suspension on the rears.

Sitting a fair more inset then stock, why not just go 18 x 9 + 30 all round, and get spacers if need be?

Edited by voncina

yeah man, 18 x 9 +30 all round works nicely. I understand you wanna go bigger on the back, but if you keep em the same your can rotate your rubber. even just go a 255 on the rear and 235 on the front.

You wanted 19s, couldn't get them, so decided on 20s instead. This says a lot about your personality...

Look think what you want about me I don't really care.

The reason I got 20's is cause I wanted that style of rim and I was told I couldn't get them in 19's.

so I hit 20's at the same price as 19's so I'm not complaining.

R32 gtst 2 door

Advan RG2's 18x9 +29 all round.

235/40 Sumitomo's (minimal stretch)

Suspension lowered to minimum legal height ( pretty high )

Front guards untouched, rears slightly rolled but wouldn't need to be.

Rims sit flush with guards, perfect fitment.post-116191-0-24551100-1379064184_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...