Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well?????????????????????????????????????????? was it hubby lol

hahaha i wasnt suppose to say anything but................:( the wire he connected it to was labelled "speed wire"..i pointed the label out to him and i couldnt stop laughing :happy:

oh well i couldnt have done it my self so im greatful that i have a radio, it works when i plant my foot down and that he did it for me :mad: we all make mistakes and were not perfect but it sure was funny seeing the wire labelled :laugh:

:laugh: ya brett :huh:

*Shrugs shoulders* Meh it had 12V on it when turned to accesories so I used it... Have to admit though I am not sure what the purpose of a wire coming from the radio that varies its voltage as the accelerator is pushed for.... never the less... I redid it and used another wire... problem solved :D

*Shrugs shoulders* Meh it had 12V on it when turned to accesories so I used it... Have to admit though I am not sure what the purpose of a wire coming from the radio that varies its voltage as the accelerator is pushed for.... never the less... I redid it and used another wire... problem solved :P

Your right - that is weird....

Maybe it is one of those things like Honda and BMW fitted to their bikes a while back - the big tourers that had stereos fitted as standard (I kid you not!) had a natty little feature that raised the volume as the road speed increased so you could hear your choons over the wind noise.

Yet another trap for young players in the wonderful world of japanese imports :D

Well what it appears to me is that when the throttle is pushed (only in drive, not park) the voltage appears to drop across that wire... thus the Fm Converter doesnt have the power to work...

Its the strangest thing I have seen in all my years of backyard auto electrics :D

  • 1 month later...

Bought a head unit today, and some rear co-axials to match my front Boston splits. Hopefully, I will fit these next week some time.

My front speaker mounts had to be chopped up heaps too for the magnets to fit, and some of the mounting holes didn't line up properly. I might have to borrow a jigsaw and get some MDF to make some decent pods for them, and maybe the back too depending on the quality of the fit.

Has any one worked out how to get decent reception with aftermarket head units and the aerials in the rear windows? The only wire I have that isn't connected to anything is blue with a white stripe but when I give that 12v it doesn’t make any difference to the reception but sucks up a heap of power as if it's earthed.

The black with yellow stripe wire that Alexcim claims is the power for the antenna is connected at both ends. One end joins into the wires going to the antennas and the other links into the main body loom.

I guess my next step will me to snip the black with yellow stripe wire and give the end going to the antennas 12v and see what happens.

Hi, did you get around to trying this? Did it work?

:P cheers :P

Your right - that is weird....

Maybe it is one of those things like Honda and BMW fitted to their bikes a while back - the big tourers that had stereos fitted as standard (I kid you not!) had a natty little feature that raised the volume as the road speed increased so you could hear your choons over the wind noise.

Yet another trap for young players in the wonderful world of japanese imports :(

The 350Z also has a similar feature. You can have the radio get louder as your revs increase. Not sure if that would work in practice but it would be interesting to find out.

I found that you have to hard wire both connections coming from both diversity antennas together and into a standard plug to get the best reception. If you just use an adaptor plug, you will be only using one antenna.

Heres some pics of the adaptor I made, just make sure you insulate the centre cores from the screens when your done soldering them together, or you'll end up with no reception.

Might stick some heatshrink on it, to tidy it up, and make it more secure.post-17348-1172144501.jpgpost-17348-1172144863.jpg

That is what I did too as I couldn't buy an adapter at the time, that was a stroke of luck. Powered up the yellow and black wire and I am happy with the reception I get, Just as good as our other car with a standard external (maybe a little better).

Cheers

Luke

That is what I did too as I couldn't buy an adapter at the time, that was a stroke of luck. Powered up the yellow and black wire and I am happy with the reception I get, Just as good as our other car with a standard external (maybe a little better).

Cheers

Luke

That was lucky, it's the only way to get decent reception. I've found it's not quite as good as a normal antenna, eg: if you go in an underground carpark etc, you completely lose reception, and won't pick up quite as far over distance, But it's damn close.

That is what I did too as I couldn't buy an adapter at the time, that was a stroke of luck. Powered up the yellow and black wire and I am happy with the reception I get, Just as good as our other car with a standard external (maybe a little better).

Cheers

Luke

Hi Luke, what do you mean by "powered up the yellow and black wire"?

In mine the yellow and black wire is connected at both ends, one end heads off down the back and the other end goes into the dashboard wiring harness.

So did you cut the yellow and black wire and supply +12v to one end?

If so, which end?

Or did you supply 12 volts to both ends?

:P cheers :D

Hey SK, it's been a while since I did mine, but I think the yellow and black wire went to the deck.

I definately know that it's part of the antenna harness that comes to the deck.

Hey SK, it's been a while since I did mine, but I think the yellow and black wire went to the deck.

I definately know that it's part of the antenna harness that comes to the deck.

Yep mine ran to the deck, there was no confusion, I didn't need to cut it. Did you have the stock head unit in there when you got it SK? If not, someone may have already fiddled with it...

Cheers

Luke

P.S. does one end of that wire run into a plug like this?

280420063sr.jpg

(Photo credit - Alex)

And I don't think (can't be sure) that it was a thick wire from memory...

Edited by munchdesign
Yep mine ran to the deck, there was no confusion, I didn't need to cut it. Did you have the stock head unit in there when you got it SK? If not, someone may have already fiddled with it...

Cheers

Luke

It had the standard deck in it. The yellow and black wire definitely did not go to the deck. Mine and Burns are exactly the same, check back a couple of pages and you will see his post.

:P cheers :D

It had the standard deck in it. The yellow and black wire definitely did not go to the deck. Mine and Burns are exactly the same, check back a couple of pages and you will see his post.

:P cheers :D

OK, yep, see that now, bloody strange... Mine has the AV/Navi unit in it but all that meant was that there was an extra short loom added in after the standard plug that split the wires up as required (CD player and radio/audio controls were two separate units) once I worked that out, all the wires lined up with the "How to".

Sorry I can't help any more...

Cheers

Luke

  • 2 months later...

Hey All.

Just a tip if you want a quick and easy stereo install (at least on a S1 Stag but seems like the wires are the same for S2 as well).

Buy an Aerpro loom adaptor kit from JB HiFi or similar for $14 and all the wires match straight up. Just cut off the small brown/black connectors, solder the aftermarket stereo loom in to the aerpro one by matching the colours, then plug the factory plugs into the white aerpro sockets and its all done ... couldn't be easier !! Don't forget to get the Antenna adaptor too :wave:

The one to get is for NISSAN 200SX, 240SX and Maxima, Part Number APP0120. The only lead that doesn't match is the black earth, but you can earth the aftermarket radio straight on to metal anyway. I double checked all the wires were the right ones, so its all good >_<

http://www.aerpro.com.au/list.php?pcode=AP...amp;cat_sno=160

post-35897-1179551790_thumb.jpg

Also, to get a 1 DIN plastic pocket to fill the hole left by the double DIN factory system. the genuine NISSAN Patrol pocket fits perfect. Part #NI-68475-35F00. $30 and looks just like a bought one :laughing-smiley-014:

Edited by exitSTAGEAright
Hey All.

Just a tip if you want a quick and easy stereo install (at least on a S1 Stag but seems like the wires are the same for S2 as well).

Buy the Aeropro loom adaptor kit from JB HiFi or similar for $14 and all the wires match straight up. Just solder the aftermarket stereo loom in to the aeropro one by matching the colours, then plug the factory plugs into the aeropro one's sockets and its all done ... couldn't be easier !! Don't forget to get the Antenna adaptor too :(

The one to get is for NISSAN 200SX, 240SX and Maxima. I meant to keep the packet for the part number but forgot, sorry! The only lead that doesn't match is the black earth, but you can earth the aftermarket radio straight on to metal anyway. I double checked all the wires were the right ones, so its all good :O

Also, to get a 1 DIN plastic pocket to fill the hole left by the double DIN factory system. the genuine NISSAN Patrol pocket fits perfect. Part #NI-68475-35F00. $30 and looks just like a bought one :laughing-smiley-014:

Jeez, that would make it heaps easier! I bought the Aeropro antenna adaptor from JB, but if I'd known the loom adaptor was a straight fit too, I would have gotten one of those too. Oh well...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...