How To: Stagea Headunit/stereo Removal

[art burgess]

some usefull stuff here,

its makes so much more sense when ya can see pics of what people are doing

[ant0ny]

The Arial Adaptor

JB HiFi

AEROPRO Antanna Adaptor

Nissan Double Diversity - AP348A

$12.00

Antony

[Stagea_Neo]

I was in strathfield car radio the other day and they have 6*9 enclosures prebuilt carpeted for $29 the pair...bargain.

Couldnt do it cheaper myself so though stuff it bought them.

Nice easy option if you want to quickly install some speakers and not cut stuff

I ended up putting the 7*10 in them and have them now sitting up against the cargo barrier, looks neat enough. couple of occy straps to stop them sliding around. Drilled an extra 3cm hole/port in the back of them for better air travel and deeper bass reponse and all good.

I second Yunis comment on the kevlar cones, got some pioneers in the front doors they seem to have a fair bit more bass than the 'linear design'? paper cones in the back doors.

p.s if anyone looking at a compromise between having a subwoofer and loosing boot space check out kenwood 7*10 if they still make em. They have decent bass. Had them in the rear parcel shelf of my R31 (RIP) and used to always get asked if i had a subwoofer which i never have. Although i always commented the good boot rubbers, carpeting air sealing properies of that boot made the difference, as in a VC Commodore (RIP) they sounded like 6*9.

i'll put some pics of the boxes up in an hr or so when at home, gee it suks to work of a Saturday

Edited December 1, 2007 by Stagea_Neo

[Stagea_Neo]

here they are.

I've got splits in the front and back doors and these in the back.

Personally was looking for clarity and decent bass without a sub.

[Sydneykid]

Well, after 3 years I finally got jack of the poor radio reception and went back inside the dash/console, the place I most hate to go, it's a real pain in the ass. Hence why I have been puting it off for so long. This thread is a life savour as I had forgotten a couple of the tricks of removing the console.

I got the trusty multimeter out and went searching, I traced the antenna lead back into the dash until I found another wire attached to it that and then followed it as far as I could find. On the dash end it had a plug and a black with yellow stripe (BY) wire going into it, the BY wire was connected into the wiring harnes that dissapeared up into the main dashboard harness. I unplugged it and checked the radio reception, no difference. So I checked the voltage, none. I checked for earth, some resistence in the direction of the antenna, none in the direction of the dash. Some resistence usually = electronic components, so I figured I would try some voltage in that direction. Using a fused 12 volts, to avoid damaging anything, I applied it to the plug, BINGO, improved radio reception. Even inside the factory I could pick up the weakest AM radio statio signal that I usually can't get, even outside.

I made up a small wiring harness and split the 12V turn on signal for the amplifier from the head unit. Put the dash/console back together after a bit of vacuuming, boy lots of crap suree sneaks in under the console. Now for a couple of days of testing to see if my 2 hours of pain was worth it.

Cheers

Gary

[mitchy_]

Well, after 3 years I finally got jack of the poor radio reception and went back inside the dash/console, the place I most hate to go, it's a real pain in the ass. Hence why I have been puting it off for so long. This thread is a life savour as I had forgotten a couple of the tricks of removing the console.

I got the trusty multimeter out and went searching, I traced the antenna lead back into the dash until I found another wire attached to it that and then followed it as far as I could find. On the dash end it had a plug and a black with yellow stripe (BY) wire going into it, the BY wire was connected into the wiring harnes that dissapeared up into the main dashboard harness. I unplugged it and checked the radio reception, no difference. So I checked the voltage, none. I checked for earth, some resistence in the direction of the antenna, none in the direction of the dash. Some resistence usually = electronic components, so I figured I would try some voltage in that direction. Using a fused 12 volts, to avoid damaging anything, I applied it to the plug, BINGO, improved radio reception. Even inside the factory I could pick up the weakest AM radio statio signal that I usually can't get, even outside.

I made up a small wiring harness and split the 12V turn on signal for the amplifier from the head unit. Put the dash/console back together after a bit of vacuuming, boy lots of crap suree sneaks in under the console. Now for a couple of days of testing to see if my 2 hours of pain was worth it.

Cheers

Gary

i'm sure you don't want to go back in there, but i used the 'power antenna' off the head unit to power the antenna... that way it only has power when the radio is on..... not that it really matters though.

[IMPORTD]

oh please, your handy work only did more damage to my car

I wired the antenna into the BY wire... powered the clock again, got my indicators working again, managed to power the stereo AGAIN without the problem with turning on the aircon, which inturn turned off the stereo

Geez, I tell ya, girls (Kirstie and if any others are out there) learn to do these things yourself. You will much happier when everything works!!

ps: I know you tried your best Mitchy

[munchstagea]

Ahahaha! Flamed brother!!!

Nice one Kylie

[mitchy_]

oh please, your handy work only did more damage to my car

I wired the antenna into the BY wire... powered the clock again, got my indicators working again, managed to power the stereo AGAIN without the problem with turning on the aircon, which inturn turned off the stereo

Geez, I tell ya, girls (Kirstie and if any others are out there) learn to do these things yourself. You will much happier when everything works!!

ps: I know you tried your best Mitchy

that's ok.. means i never have to work on your car again!

ps: i hope your car sells before the track day, cause you aint driving the legnum.

[IMPORTD]

yeah right

[Sydneykid]

i'm sure you don't want to go back in there, but i used the 'power antenna' off the head unit to power the antenna... that way it only has power when the radio is on..... not that it really matters though.

That's what I did

I made up a small wiring harness and split the 12V turn on signal for the amplifier from the head unit

The head unit turns on the Soundstream amp and the aerial amp when it is on. When the head unit is off, no 12 volts, so no amps, neither of them.

Cheers

Gary

[mitchy_]

yeah i understood that, however most new decks have a remote activation wire, and they also have an +12v line for power antenna's, such as the 33's so the antenna is only up when the radio is on, not just when the deck is on.

[rubba]

I just put my headunit in the other day, reception was fine in my garage but I went through the city today and noticed it was really shit.

I did notice when I cut the factory headunit loom off and soldered all the wires up to the new loom there was 1 yellow/black wire left over which I presume is the one you are all talking about?

Guess I'm gonna have to pull it all out again sometime and solder it up to the amp remote wire... Does it really have to be fused? Or was that just a precaution in case it wasn't what you thought.

This guide was absolute gold though, everything was easy as pie when you know where all the clips are. Although my top vent has a broken clip and has some sticky tape shit wedged in there to hold it firm which proved to be a bit tricky to get out cause it was way harder to pop than the factory clips.

Here's how mine ended up:

I just used a piece of cardboard with foam glued to the front wedged in place and held with zipties to fill the gap until I can get a proper pocket/whatever. Boost gauge is temp zipped down there too till I get a mearcat or a pillar pod.

[Sydneykid]

I just put my headunit in the other day, reception was fine in my garage but I went through the city today and noticed it was really shit.

I did notice when I cut the factory headunit loom off and soldered all the wires up to the new loom there was 1 yellow/black wire left over which I presume is the one you are all talking about?

Guess I'm gonna have to pull it all out again sometime and solder it up to the amp remote wire... Does it really have to be fused? Or was that just a precaution in case it wasn't what you thought.

I only used the fuse when checking, didn't want to blow stuff up.

Cheers

Gary

[rubba]

Sweet thanks, just gotta get bored enough to pull all that crap out again heh

[DaveB]

...

Also, to get a 1 DIN plastic pocket to fill the hole left by the double DIN factory system. the genuine NISSAN Patrol pocket fits perfect. Part #NI-68475-35F00. $30 and looks just like a bought one :laughing-smiley-014:

Has anybody got a photo of the Patrol pocket? Hard to get a pic' from my local Nissan place who have to order one in...

[BoostedBarge]

I recently did my stereo and I used an Aerpro adapter harnass that I soldered to the new stereo loom. I noticed that it hooked the am/fm amp straight up to the blue wire, which is the am/fm 12V source from the new head unit Too easy

Previously my car has a stock Nissan CD/MD player. They'd used some sort of adapter to go from the 2 prong factory antenna plug to the standard CD player plug. I buzzed out the connectors with my multimeter and found that only one of the rear antennas was actually connected through to the CD player. I was going to cut the wires and solder them, but then came up with another idea.... I cut a small piece of wire and bent it into shape so that I could drop it into the socket of the 2-prong antenna adapter. So each end of the small piece of wire goes down the holes that the 2 pronged antenna plug goes into, so this effectively bridges the 2 prongs and joins your 2 antennas! The only problem with doing this is that the 2 antennas are now run in parallel which gives an impedance mismatch to the radio, but then this is FM i doubt it really matters... If I was really keen I could wire a transformer into there to give the correct match, but like I said, it's only FM....

[jko_one]

Has anybody got a photo of the Patrol pocket? Hard to get a pic' from my local Nissan place who have to order one in...

just go to jb hifi or wherever and get a standard nissan pocket for 20 bucks fits perfect and is a bit cheaper

Edited May 15, 2008 by jko_one

[DaveB]

just go to jb hifi or wherever and get a standard nissan pocket for 20 bucks fits perfect and is a bit cheaper

cheers

[Xmetal]

'

My new unit.