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The car is mainly going to get driven on the street apart from some skidpan/driftday exercises, so i guess i still want to be able to drive the thing.

So from what i understand, what i need, apart from the spings and shocks, will be the 24mm stabiliser bar (front and rear), the castor set, the camber set and the subframe alignment (these are pineapples right). Yeah?

Just a final question...will you be able to tell us where on the gold coast or brissie i could go to get it installed, and what sort of price i would be looking at. A guestimate would be much appreciated.

Thanks for all the help, Alex

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The car is mainly going to get driven on the street apart from some skidpan/driftday exercises, so i guess i still want to be able to drive the thing.

So from what i understand, what i need, apart from the spings and shocks, will be the 24mm stabiliser bar (front and rear), the castor set, the camber set and the subframe alignment (these are pineapples right). Yeah?

Just a final question...will you be able to tell us where on the gold coast or brissie i could go to get it installed, and what sort of price i would be looking at. A guestimate would be much appreciated.

Thanks for all the help, Alex

Hi Alex, I am currently checking out an independant, reliable suspension specialist in SE Qld. Couple more reference checks to go, if they pass I will add them to the list shortly.

You are looking at around one full day to do everything, so around $400 should cover it.

Yep, 24mm front and rear adjustable bars, camber kit, caster kit and pineapples plus springs and shocks. That should be it.

:P Cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid

Mate, has anyone told you your a legend?

Sounds like i am all set. I have been looking around for a while so its about time i think.

So do we just order when we are ready? I gotta organise the funds, but is it as simple as a money transfer to the account?

Alex

Mate, has anyone told you your a legend?

Sounds like i am all set. I have been looking around for a while so its about time i think.

So do we just order when we are ready? I gotta organise the funds, but is it as simple as a money transfer to the account?

Alex

That's it, I have tried to make it as simple as possible. Some Group Buys take a long time as you have to wait for all the orders to come in before the first guy gets his stuff. That's not really fair. So I twisted some arms on prices and, since I am doing the engineering, it was an offer they couldn't refuse.

:O cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
The posted images with prices and specs seems to be busted.

What spring rates have u recommended front and back?

Are these kits for road or more track use?

Yep, the gallery is dropping in and out, been doing it all day. Hopefully it wil be back on track shortly.

This kit is mostly for road use, but it will go fine on the track with the adjustable stabiliser bar option and the alignment set accordingly. Ian is currently leading the NSW Speed Event Championship with basically this set up.

I am working on a circuit specification, that is more for guys who only drive their cars to and from the circuit, targas and that sort of stuff. Plus a drag setup and even one for drift, they will be released gradually over the next couple of months as the engineering is finished.

:( cheers :)

hey sydneykid,

i was just wondering with the circlip grooving how low can u go from the centre of the wheel to the guard. Sorry if this is a stupid question.

Thanks, Mike.

Yep, the gallery is dropping in and out, been doing it all day.  Hopefully it wil be back on track shortly.

This kit is mostly for road use, but it will go fine on the track with the adjustable stabiliser bar option and the alignment set accordingly.  Ian is currently leading the NSW Speed Event Championship with basically this set up.

I am working on a circuit specification, that is more for guys who only drive their cars to and from the circuit, targas and that sort of stuff.  Plus a drag setup and even one for drift, they will be released gradually over the next couple of months as the engineering is finished.

:D cheers  :D

Hopefully the 300lbs front and 250lbs rears i just got custom made work well on the track :)

Hopefully the 300lbs front and 250lbs rears i just got custom made work well on the track  :D

As long as you have the shock valving and bar rates specified correctly they should be fine.

:D cheers :)

hey sydneykid,

i was just wondering with the circlip grooving how low can u go from the centre of the wheel to the guard. Sorry if this is a stupid question.

Thanks, Mike.

Hi Mike, the springs are 25mm lower than the standard 375mm, so that's 350 mm, then there are 3 circlip grooves 8mm apart. Hence 350 mm - 24mm = 326 mm.

But hell I can put grooves down to zero if you want, but you have to be very careful. There is not a lot of suspension travel, the front lower control arm moves to a static upward angle (outwards, towards the wheel), this means a dynamic shift to positive camber on suspension compression. Hence a savage jump into understeer when pushed.

I have spent several days jacking the suspension up and down, looking for the design limitations. Added to that I have driven so many Skylines that handle very badly, some are downright dangerous. I have then designed the suspension kits to give the best handling and ride.

Bottom, line, if you want super low for look that's fine, but don't expect it to handle or ride very well.

:D cheers :D

ive just order a set of springs and shocks SK check you PM

cheers

Order received and processed.

PM sent on other questions.

:D cheers :O

Gary,

I went and measured my car up and its 330mm front and 340mm rear.

I was told when i purchased the car that kings springs had been fitted. I assume these would be there super low ones.

The car is a pain in the butt to drive anywhere that isnt dead flat, you have to take every driveway at quite an angle (sometimes space limits this ) and hence its getting quite a few hits on the mspec front.

the 20mm raise alone would be worth it from my point of view, but assuming these are the kings 'super lows ' or whatever there called, how do your spec springs compare in the rate area ? More or less ?

One last thing, will those springs work with the std shocks ok ? or will i be that much more impressed with the bilsteins ride quality to warrant them ?( i do the odd street meet here and there, and mainly just street drive it daily)

Gary

Edited by Fastrotor

HI Mate

i have a r34 gtt i already have whiteline lowered springs so will only need shockers and camber castor adj and sway bars

can you do for a 34 gtt please let me know how much??

Gary,

        I went and measured my car up and its 330mm front and 340mm rear.

I was told when i purchased the car that kings springs had been fitted. I assume these would be there super low ones.

The car is a pain in the butt to drive anywhere that isnt dead flat, you have to take every driveway at quite an angle (sometimes space limits this ) and hence its getting quite a few hits on the mspec front.

the 20mm raise alone would be worth it from my point of view,  but assuming these are the kings 'super lows ' or whatever there called, how do your spec springs compare in the rate area ?  More or less ?

One last thing, will those springs work with the std shocks ok ? or will i be that much more impressed with the bilsteins ride quality to warrant them ?( i do the odd street meet here and there, and mainly just street drive it daily)

Gary

Hi Gary, the Kings "low" spring rates are not too bad, I don't know what the "super lows" are though.

1. I do know that they have a propensity for hitting the bump stops, this combined with the short travel, makes the ride very harsh.

2. Standard shocks are pretty well past it by 60,000K's, and should be replaced.

3. Lowered springs have to have a higher spring rate, and the shocks need to have the valving to control that increased spring rate.

4. Shocks are not right or wrong, they have a "window" that they work OK in. Bilsteins have standard a much wider window than the standard shocks.

5. The effective spring rate and the weight of the car determin that "window".

6. There are bump stops that soften the impact as the springs run out of travel, if they have been doing that for some time they will be worn

So you maybe have worn out shocks that are definitely operating outside their window, with springs that are too short in travel hitting the bump stops that are also most likely worn.

Using the higher ciclip grooves on the Bilsteins will fix #1, the more appropriately valved Bilsteins will fix #2, #3 and #4, replacing the bump stops at the same time will fix #6.

That leaves #5, I have designed the "window" on the Bilstein valving to be pretty wide, so I would be surpised if they don't handle the Kings super lows rate very well.

Hope that helps

:cheers: cheers :D

Thanks for the info Gary. I don't know how old the shocks are, but car has 122,000 on it , so i assume they have been replaced by now. I'll get under the car and check how close it is to the bump stops and see what they look like.

I know getting the bilsteins is the right thing to do, my wallet just needed to be convinced.

On the subject of suspension, have you ever played with S4 rx-7 stuff ??

Of course i can pm you if you have, since this is a nissan forum !

Gary

Thanks for the info Gary.  I don't know how old the shocks are, but car has 122,000 on it , so i assume they have been replaced by now. I'll get under the car and check how close it is to the bump stops and see what they look like.

I know getting the bilsteins is the right thing to do, my wallet just needed to be convinced.

On the subject of suspension, have you ever played with S4 rx-7 stuff ??

Of course i can pm you if you have, since this is a nissan forum !

Gary

We have an RX7 in the race team, so I do know just a little. PM would be better.

;) cheers :)

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