Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There are only 6 sets of Bilsteins left for this model, when they are gone the Group Buy will finish. So don't wait too long as they will be gone very quickly.

:) cheers :)

  • Replies 714
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

What model is the bilstein suspension ?

This is an R33GTST Group Buy so the Bilstein are R33GTST ones with modified valving (to suite the other parts in the kit) and extra circlip grooves (to enable height adjustment).

:P cheers :(

Sorry to be such a pain in the arse... but i'd like to know the specific model so i can do some research on it. Apparently from what i check bilstein only has 1 specific model for the R33, which is the B6 Sport. Is this the one? And i'm a complete dumbass in cars.. have loads to learn, so here comes another question, is the dampening rates or bound and rebout set stiffer or softer with ur setting?

Hope you don't mind the dumb questions. Cheers! :)

Sorry to be such a pain in the arse... but i'd like to know the specific model so i can do some research on it. Apparently from what i check bilstein only has 1 specific model for the R33, which is the B6 Sport. Is this the one? And i'm a complete dumbass in cars.. have loads to learn, so here comes another question, is the dampening rates or bound and rebout set stiffer or softer with ur setting?

Hope you don't mind the dumb questions. Cheers!  :)

Thee are no such things as dumb questions.

Simplistically there are 7 sets of valves, 3 for rebound and 4 for bump.

Rebound

There is a valve set for controlling low frequency rebound

There is a valve set for medium velocity

There is another valve set for high frequency rebound

Bump

There is a valve set for controlling low frequency bump

There is a valve set for medium velocity

There is another valve set for high frequency bump

There is a single valve for grosse dump

Some of the changes to the valving in the Group Buy are to make it stiffer in certain areas and some of changes are to make it softer. Generally speaking what I have done is to soften the high frequency for small ripples, bumps, joins etc. And incease the low frequency to control the springs and the stabiliser bars.

The idea is to give a sporty, but not harsh ride and great handling. The reports coming back from the guys on the various Group Buys indicate that I have been reasonably successful in achieving that.

:) cheers ;)

i'm interested in full kit for series one.

so free delivery plus 5% off total prices listed above?

Im also interested in the full R33 kit... I know nothing about suspension.

What does the kit come with?

Whats the price?

In the kit what does it come with? Does it come with everything i need to put them in the car?

Reply via PM

Cheers,

Mitch

Hi SK,

My R33 GTSt was originally imported from Japanese with modified suspension (very stiff)

I bought a set of Whiteline R33 springs which softened the ride.

It is still way too hard! – (Apexi shocks set on the softest setting)

Will the valving you have the Bilsteins set to be suitable for the Whiteline springs I currently have fitted? (are these the one you use in the kit?) (73175F 83139R)

What sort of external adjust is there with the Bilsteins? Bump Rebound.

Cheers

Rob

Hi SK,

My R33 GTSt was originally imported from Japanese with modified suspension (very stiff)

I bought a set of Whiteline R33 springs which softened the ride.

It is still way too hard! – (Apexi shocks set on the softest setting)

Will the valving you have the Bilsteins set to be suitable for the Whiteline springs I currently have fitted? (are these the one you use in the kit?) (73175F 83139R)

What sort of external adjust is there with the Bilsteins? Bump Rebound.

Cheers

Rob

The Bilsteins will work perfectly with the Whiteline springs, they are the ones I specified in the Group Buy. The Bilsteins don't have external adjustment, they don't need it. The valving is sophisticated enough to handle the uprated spring and bar rates, whilst maintaining a sporty, but not harsh ride.

:P Cheers ;)

What a day!

Picked a good day to do the front shocks... 30 degrees!

SK, they're in the front and boy can i feel the difference. I had some sort of blitz shocks in previously. They were dead and buried....I know a good shock should take about 2sec from full compression to come all the way out, and take nearly all your body weight to slowly push it in right?? My old front left shock litterally got pushed down by one finger! and took about 10 seconds to come up... with a little help. cant believe they got so bad so quickly.

Getting them back in was a killer. I had no chance on my own. Had to get the fattest guy in the street to stand on my rotors and bounce so i could pop the bottom eyelet back in.... Any tips for the back?... fat guy might not be available tomorrow when i do em.. :O

To all the people out there that use lock tight, etc on your nuts, please don't. your killing me. I literally had to chop my old shocks up because the top nuts where stuck on to get all the rubbers etc off my old strut.. The last 2 cars ive owned, same thing. And please don't overtighten nuts....Bent 3 spanners trying to undo nuts. My dads gunna kill me when he finds out... :P

Bottom clip is lowest height right? too late now, im not pulling them out to change them ;)

Thanks again SK. I woulda paid $3000 for them... :)

What a day!

Picked a good day to do the front shocks... 30 degrees!

SK, they're in the front and boy can i feel the difference. I had some sort of blitz shocks in previously. They were  dead and buried....I know a good shock should take about 2sec from full compression to come all the way out, and take nearly all your body weight to slowly push it in right?? My old front left shock litterally got pushed down by one finger! and took about 10 seconds to come up... with a little help. cant believe they got so bad so quickly.

Getting them back in was a killer. I had no chance on my own. Had to get the fattest guy in the street to stand on my rotors and bounce so i could pop the bottom eyelet back in.... Any tips for the back?... fat guy might not be available tomorrow when i do em.. :(

To all the people out there that use lock tight, etc on your nuts, please don't. your killing me. I literally had to chop my old shocks up because the top nuts where stuck on to get all the rubbers etc off my old strut.. The last 2 cars ive owned, same thing. And please don't overtighten nuts....Bent 3 spanners trying to undo nuts. My dads gunna kill me when he finds out...  :D

Bottom clip is lowest height right? too late now, im not pulling them out to change them  :D

Thanks again SK. I woulda paid $3000 for them... :P

That's what Group Buys are all about, value for money.

:) cheers :)

PS; tell your dad he needs to buy better spanners for you to use :lol:

Edited by Sydneykid
That's what Group Buys are all about, value for money.

:D cheers :D

PS; tell your dad he needs to buy better spanners for you to use :lol:

Hi Gary, I bought a full Kit from you last month. Very happy as you know. I have one question though. I had it all installed by a well known workshop, & I have been noticing that the rear left is bottoming out a little (the same old tyre scrub noise, --(no metal to metal noises etc..)

This happens on different sealed roads (only certain types of bumps etc..)

From memory - Not at low speed over a speed hump, I thought it was odd, because it happens even when I have a empty back seat?, but alot more noticeable when there is a passenger on the rear left side. I had it checked by the same workshop, but not on the hoist yet, (I & they didn't have the time this particualr day I had it checked), but I am going back because we all thought maybe the springs are settling?

I am a bit stumped on this one, nothing visible, & I don't think it's getting worse, but it is playing on my mind a little.

Any ideas/thoughts or had any other customers had simular issues.

Any help would be appreciated- the car will be going back WED.

Cheers

Chris

Hi Gary, I bought a full Kit from you last month.  Very happy as you know.  I have one question though.  I had it all installed by a well known workshop, & I have been noticing that the rear left is bottoming out a little (the same old tyre scrub noise, --(no metal to metal noises etc..) 

This happens on different sealed roads (only certain types of bumps etc..)

From memory - Not at low speed over a speed hump, I thought it was odd, because it happens even when I have a empty back seat?, but alot more noticeable when there is a passenger on the rear left side.  I had it checked by the same workshop, but not on the hoist yet, (I & they didn't have the time this particualr day I had it checked), but I am going back because we all thought maybe the springs are settling?

I am a bit stumped on this one, nothing visible, & I don't think it's getting worse, but it is playing on my mind a little.

Any ideas/thoughts or had any other customers had simular issues.

Any help would be appreciated- the car will be going back WED.

Cheers

Chris

Hi Chris, grab a tape measure and check the centre of wheel to guard measurements. That will tell you whether it is a height problem or not. All springs settle a little after a few days, usually around 5mm. I always recommend a height around 355 mm front and 345 mm rear.

Have a quick look around and see if you can find where the tyre is touching, you may be able to fix it with a little tweak of the camber. On the Stagea I have to run 1/2 degree more than I would really like to make sure the tyres (R33GTR wheels) clear the guards whne i have a load in it.

Let me know how you get on

:) cheers :O

Thanks Gary, This problem will be fixed tomorrow ASAP. I had a full car load today & the tyres have been shaved a little on the outside. No real damage but it will be all be over tomorrow.

Thanks again.

Cheers

Chris

Hi SK,

Tried sending a PM, but your inbox seems to be full.

Just wondering if you have a full set of the Whiteline springs and Bilstein shocks for a S2 R33 GTS-T left?

By my calculations, the total price would be around $1178 for the set?

Hi SK,

Tried sending a PM, but your inbox seems to be full.

Just wondering if you have a full set of the Whiteline springs and Bilstein shocks for a S2 R33 GTS-T left?

By my calculations, the total price would be around $1178 for the set?

Sorry, I received 25+ PM's last night, filled up the message box. I have cleared some space today.

Yep, there are some R33GTST Bilsteins left, springs are made to order by Whiteline, so no problems there. Price would be +144+144+476+476+free freight = 1240 - 5% = $1178. Just confirm the order via PM, transfer the funds into the Jamex bank account, let me know the receipt number and we are under way. Don't forget to include your name, a delivery address (not a PO Box) and a contact phone number for the courier.

Thanks for supporting the Group Buy

:D cheers :D

Finally got around to installing the front shocks and springs today.

Never done it before and I am surprised how smoothly it has been going.

One issue has arrisen and I searched but cant find any info on it.

Can anyone please confirm what the part circled is for(see pic)?

How is it positioned when installed? Anyone got pics of theirs installed?

shockies%20001_1.jpg

cheers ;)

Finally got around to installing the front shocks and springs today.

Never done it before and I am surprised how smoothly it has been going.

One issue has arrisen and I searched but cant find any info on it.

Can anyone please confirm what the part circled is for(see pic)?

How is it positioned when installed? Anyone got pics of theirs installed?

shockies%20001_1.jpg

cheers :)

The bracket is for mounting the brake line and/or the ABS sensor wire on some models.

;) cheers :(

The bracket is for mounting the brake line and/or the ABS sensor wire on some models.

:) cheers :O

Thanks Gary.

Does it matter which way it is facing when installed?

I installed it facing forwards as there seemed to more room for the bracket thingy :angry:

Measured from centre of wheel to gaurd (both sides) - 360mm

(I didnt change the clip settings)

So allowing 5mm for the shocks to settle then I should end up with approx 355mm?

Ive only done the front so far and they feel good :)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...