Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just got a front pair of these shocks revalved for stiffer springs etc, and they are AMAZING.

ive had japanese coilovers (tanabe) before, ive borrowed my mates cheap and nasty HSDs and now ive got bilsteins, they are so much better than anything else ive had.

both more comfortable and handle heaps better

cant wait to take em out to the track!

Edited by salad

if this group buy is still on can i check the availability of the front Hduty swaybar - BNF28 and the rear XHduty swaybar - BNR26X

is there a kit which includes the bushes and links aswell?

if this group buy is still on can i check the availability of the front Hduty swaybar - BNF28 and the rear XHduty swaybar - BNR26X

is there a kit which includes the bushes and links aswell?

PM sent

:no: cheers :D

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi sydneykid

im interested in these and can i have sum prices inc shipping to melbourne PM me..

-Front & Rear Springs (im looking to lower my car only 25mm front and rear coz i have 19inch" rims and any lower it will rub. so would u supply lower 25mm springs?)

-Front Bilstein & Rear Bilstein Shocks

cheers

bill

SK i have lowered my car quiet abit...

Center of rim to gaurd on both front and rear is 295mm, and im not exaggerating at all lol

I am goin to grab a few bits off you to go with some whiteline stuff i have (mainly after some traction so adjustin the camber as much as i can), is bein that low going to damage anythin (apart from my kit and exhaust.. hahaha)??? I noticed better handlin when it was 10-15mm higher but i prefer the low look.

SK i have lowered my car quiet abit...

Center of rim to gaurd on both front and rear is 295mm, and im not exaggerating at all lol

I am goin to grab a few bits off you to go with some whiteline stuff i have (mainly after some traction so adjustin the camber as much as i can), is bein that low going to damage anythin (apart from my kit and exhaust.. hahaha)??? I noticed better handlin when it was 10-15mm higher but i prefer the low look.

Shoot, where to start............just a short list of stuf that your are risking;

1. Drive shaft breakage is possible

2. CV joints will wear very fast (they are also soaking up extra power due to the extreme angles)

3. Steering tie rods (front and rear) are under extreme loads

4. Every single bush in the front and rear suspension will wear out excessively fast

5. The strut towers will eventually crack (both front and rear) due to the lack of bump absortion

6. The rear cradle will crack around the upper and lower control arm joints also due to the lack of bump absorbtion

7. You will suffer poor traction, so it won't stop or accelerate anywhere near its potential

8. The front and rear windscreens are stressed members, so they will eventually crack as well

9. Every electronic component is being subject to higher than its design levels of NVH, so they will eventually start to fail one by one

10. Your chiropractor will make a small fortune fixing your lower back problems

That's pretty much the major items, there are quite a few minor ones of course, but I think you get the drift.

:D cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid
Alright Gary... whats the lowest i can be without stressing the suspension etc too much?? :O Dont tell me 330mm coz thats heaps hahaha

I use camber correction as the first measuring stick as to how much a car can be lowered. When the camber gets grossly excessive, then you know you have lowered it too far. This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard;

Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear

360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters

350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit

340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits

Using that rule of thumb, 340 mm front and 330 mm rear is a low as I would go, keeping in mind that they handle best at around 350/340. So even at 340/330 you are sacrificing handling for looks.

:thumbsup: cheers :no:

Edited by Sydneykid

SK,

will the shocks work on standard gtst springs? and just to confirm that they are height adjustable? what's the advantage of going to the whiteline springs also?

i want something that i can adjust about 20mm lower, but put back to standard if i need to

but i also want the ride to be comfortable as this car probably won't ever see track work

and finally, just confirming that the price is for a pair? so a set of 4 shocks will be around $1140?

thanks,

Warren

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
    • Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?
    • Yes correct. Also, I'd avoid applying it to soft paint (however I doubt you'll ever have to deal with it in practice). So any paint that hasn't fully hardened, could be a 1k paint that never fully hardened or it could be a 2k paint that was laid down thick and hasn't yet fully hardened. 
    • Bit of an update to this one. Having some issues on the dyno that held us back (boost spiking) and I want to pass some info over you guys and see what you think is wrong with my setup. The current readout on this dyno is 462rwkw on a low reading dyno so keep in mind it is a real world 500rwkw setup on a hub dyno. Don't read into the power figure too much as a sign of the issue. The short and curly of it is: 2.8 Litre Racepace build RB25 NEO N/A Head with VCT (internally standard however ) Borgwarner EFR 8474  Turbosmart 50mm Straight Gate + Mac valve 6Boost Manifold 4" dump to full 4" exhaust (nil restrictions) Wastegate plumbed back in and all angles in the exhaust system are acceptable and not too sharp. GFB SV52 BOV in cooler piping  Turbosmart BOV in EFR Housing   The issue we are having is it comes onto full boost for example at 4000rpm and spikes to 24/25psi, before dropping down to 17psi before slowly rising back up to the target boost of 23psi. It was extremely uncontrollable and the tuner actually had to ramp in boost progrssively with each 1000rpm on each boost setting we selected to try and reduce the amount of spiking. Sometimes we would see a drop of 10psi from the peak at the beginning of the run, to the low, until it took the next 500-1000rpm to stabilise back up to the target boost. The tuner is pretty confident that the straight gate is just a poorly designed product and leaks too much boost upon cracking the gate open and theres no way to fix it other than going to a poppet valve. He's also confient theres no ignition breakdown or floating valves. The fueling is extremely stable as well. Turbo speed is somewhere around the 109,000rpm area. The spanner in the works for me is that prior to this Borgwarner and StraightGate, the car was tuned on -5 twins at a diferent tuner, and he also had issues controlling the boost with it spiking around the same rpm range, so to me this sounds like the same issue and it can't be anything on the turbo side as this was all changed and I think the behaviour is extremely similar, if not the same. We also removed the mac valve and did a run on wastegate pressure and it still spiked and had the same behaviour. My thoughts on possibilities are: Boost Leak VCT Cam Gear isn't reliably activating consistently - (On this however, we did a run with the VCT disabled and the boost still spiked) Turbosmart BOV is not handling the boost? However this seems unlikely to not be able to handle 20psi. I have a couple of logs that I can't make sense of if anybody knows how to read them and can obtain further logs of other parameters if they are not enough, happy to pay for anyones time. The dyno readout with the power figure is the most recent last week. The other picture is from two weeks prior to that where we couldn't break 400kw (we removed the cat), however the issue of the boost control persisted. @Lithium @Piggaz @burn4005 @GTSBoy @discopotato03 I've tagged those that were quite active in recent pages here, no disrespect to those that know turbos well but I missed tagging. Cheers 
×
×
  • Create New...