Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As the topic, I was just wondering if anyone could tell me the approximate cost of getting either a new front bar painted, or a 2nd hand one resprayed. I am installing my fmic tomorrow, so I am looking at getting a new front bar without anything blocking the cooler.

At the moment I am just trying to decide whether to buy a new one, or find a decent 2nd hand one & get it resprayed to my car's colour. By knowing approx how much a spray will cost it will help me a lot, coz then I can know how much money I will have to spend. :(

Any help is appreciated, cheers, Nathan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88954-cost-of-front-bar-respray/
Share on other sites

Yeah, best bet is to go to a painter and ask for figures, to give you an example i had front bar, bonnet, gaurd,grill, door, rear 1/4 painted and some dents taken out for $1350?

But i know it costs around $400 just to paint the bumper bar if you get it done seperatly... Specially if they have to prep it, you might get a brand new one painted cheaper then you would say a second hand one that needs sanding back? Some painters demand that you get it sand blasted which they can do, or you can get it done yourself..

Dayne

It might be a good idea to to all the prep work yourself if you're looking to save some money. It's not hard to sand it back and put some primer on it yourself, just consult the spray shop first as to what primer to use. I've recently repaired and repainted my own front spoiler after tearing it in half on a curb, haven't finished it yet, but it's not too hard to do yourself.

I've done a few repairs on mine myself and just touched up the areas with a can of white spray paint. It turned out pretty sweet and you could only notice the dodginess from up close.

I never thought it would cost $400 though! That seems like a shitload of money to give something a once over with the spray gun.

just out of curiousity, what front bar are you replacing?

A savaged stock s1 bar. :P

And boostzor I am looking for one without the cooler being blocked as much, I am going to ring around for a type M because they look ok but I will just have to wait & see. Thanks everyone for the replies.

post-17137-1127897287.jpg

mate, that FMIC has heaps of airflow already...

improving the airflow might get you anouther 0.00001kW if that's what you 're after

if you are doing it for looks then that's another story but purely for airflow is a waste of $400...

Warren.

Yeah, I do agree with you, but it's not the main reason!! You can't really see it in the pic but the right hand side (looking front on) of the bumper sits a little bit lower, you can actually put your fingers under the headlightlight, a gap of about 1.5-2cm. Also the end tanks of the cooler are sitting very close to the bumper still, the left one I think sits on it. This may be part of the problem by putting a bit of extra pressure on it too.

I need to find time to take it off again & see what's going on, but I am fairly certain I know how to fix it. There is a round plastic piece (don't know what they're called) on the left that even with a screw in dosen't sit in with the bumper properly, but is does on the right & that is fine. It's not really straight, but there shouldn't be a problem with it.

Will sort it on Monday afternoon or Tuesday, I would rather not have to spend about $800 when it could cost nothing. :O

yer $400 is reasonable price.

wouldn't recomend doing the prep wk urself as u'll cock it up, and have to pay more for them to fix it or they'll just paint ova the top of ur shitty sanding job and get to kick urself in the arse everytime u look at it

try perth panel and paint in ozzy pk

37 omalley st

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...