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on a RB24DET, what spec would you make it :P

I started my conversion a while back, but now i've got a sponcer for my drifting i can finaly build my engine up, i've been given a budget of £15k English pounds to blow on my motor.

this has got to include the RB24 conversion it self from Tomei, Ecu + all electronics, gearbox from R33, and clutch ect also turbocharger and chargecooler.

sounds alot but would just build the engine that i have planned.

what kind of spec could i get for this, i worked out i could have every bit Tomei sell for the engine, plus a set of Tomei rods for RB26DETT, new crank from Abbey motorsport near me and Power fc + AVCR boost controller.

I want 500bhp at the hubs.

and no, i don't want to buy a RB25/26...i want to see how far the RB20DET can be pushed.

Clarkey.

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Note this also has to pay for parts like custom intake to clear my bonnet of my S13.5, so thats going to be cost ontop of.

There are loads of bits that have to be also added onto the cost like oil cooler, rad ect, so don't just see it as all the money inside the engine ect, it has to make the whole unit, the lot in one go.

and no, i don't want to buy a RB25/26...i want to see how far the RB20DET can be pushed.

With that kind of money youd be wasting time trying to chase that power figure out of an rb20, Rb26dett wil get there so much easier with less headaches. Its up to you.

just wanted to say great idea to stick with the rb20 and go the rb24 conversion.. good to see someone has some balls and doesn't just fall in behind the rest of the pack

cheers,

Warren.

LOL...give me the money. I already have it spent.

Ok in no particular order...

- Oil pump and cooler. Id be considering an RB26 crank from an R33 GTR with the associated oil pump with higher rated spring for higher oil pressure. I would run a 24 row oil cooler that is well ducted with plenty of flow

- Radiatior. A good sized radiator with thermo fans to ensure that coolant temps are kept well under control

- I would go for solid lifter conversion with good quality valve springs, and back cut valves. Plnty of head work. Dont know what UK is like but there are a few places in OZ that can even make custom valves if slightly larger valves are not avfailable off the shelf

- Use 260 degree cams with around 10.25mm lift

- Keep compression around 8.8:1

- If budget permits get an RB26 HKS stroker kit. you get crank, rods, rod bolts etc etc....and can sell the pistons to an RB26 owner. With an 82mm bore will give plenty of displacement

- I would be inclined to go for a HKS 3037 turbo, manifold and external gate setup.

How much ...lots? The head alone with cams is worth about Aus$5,000, and odds are it will still not flow as well as an RB26 head and wont have multiple throttle bodies.

And because im paranoid that an expensive motor can die for very simple reasons id be inclined to get a Motec/Autronic with data logging. Any sign of dramas then shut the thing down. A loose boost hose, fuel line, dirty injector, high water / oil temp can quiclky do damage when you are up it pulling 9,000rpm which such an engine will be very capabel of.

here is a crappy list i made last night to give my sponcer some idea of what i wanted

Tomei Parts

RB26DETT Connecting rods x 6

600cc Injectors

Fuel Reg

Crank bearing studs

82mm pistons for RB24DET conversion

Big end bearings

Procams + adjutable pullys

Valve springs

soild lifters

Cam belt

Valve guides

head gasket

renforcment cap bolt washers

renforcement cap bolts

oil gallery orifice

Abbey motorsport parts

New RB26DETT crank

ECU parts and electronics

Apexi Power FC AP Engineering

Apexi AVCR boost controller

Defi BF gauages + controler

Z32 AFM

Intake parts

Greddy chargecooler

GT3071R

custom intake for engine clearence

Apexi intake

Gearbox

R33 gearbox

Powerful clutch and flywheel

Fuel parts

Fuel pump

Inline filter

braided hose

fittings

swirl pot

fuel tank

fuel reg

injectors

Ignition

Spark plugs

ignistion pack plus leads

Exhaust

External waste gate

Exhasut lamba for ecu

Before I start, I should apologise for being harsh, but someone has to do it.

Let me throw a bit of realism into this.............

If you are going to give good response to your sponsors financial input then I suspect he will want to see you being competitive in the events. And a 500rwhp RB20 in an S13 is simply not going to do that for you. As I see it there are 2 major problems;

#1. The terms words "responsive" and "500 rwhp" don't live together with an RB24. You are kidding yourself if you think that a 2.4 litre engine with small ports and valves is going to make 500 rwhp without a great big turbo, lots of boost and a sizeable intercooler. That means piss poor throttle response. Exactly what you do not need in a competitive drift car.

#2, Handling, manoeuvrability, nimbleness are not what you will get with a 500 rwhp RB24 in an S13 chassis. The necessary sized turbo, pipework, intercooler, oil cooler and radiator for serious sideways airflow cooling of a 500 rwhp engine are all going to be major weight issues on their own. Then you have to add the weight of the cast iron RB20 block, serious clutch and RB25 gearbox. And all of that is in the front half of the chassis. Not very good for weight distribution, then add the R32GTR rear sub frame, diff and drive shafts necessary to handle that sort of power.

I would think that giving good value for money is your first priority as you are going to need a lot more over time. The maintenance and repair costs of a competitive drift car are not to be sneezed at. You will need serious money to keep it going. It is not good value if you can't run in events because the car is broken and you have no money left to fix it.

Bottom line, I suggest you seriously rethink what it is you are trying to achieve and then build the car to achieve that result. Don't build a car simply to prove a point.

:) cheers :P

Edited by Sydneykid

SK is right dude.

if you have to stick with an S13 chassis (a great choice by the way)

Build a SR20det using a JUN stroker kit 2450ccs of goodnes. Less pistons, valves to break, Timng chain not belt and you will retain good weight distrabution.

Plus you will have more torque than an RB24det.

and you will need less power as the weight distrabution will be better.

and pushing a 2.4 litre motor to produce 500bhp/370 odd kilowatts at the rear wheels is asking for it in a drift machine.

Stick to 300 rear wheel kilowatts. you will have much better throttle response and a bullet proof engine if you use the JUN bits and a good tune.

300rwkw is more than enough power to be compedative. I know guys that win major events with 200rwkw. and they drive s13s

:P

Goodluck mate.

Dont go the RB24 you will regret it later :)

i agree if you have a silvia, use an SR20. they are the drift motor of choice. all alloy (lighter than RB), shorter (less weight right at the front of the car and more engine bay room). Plus there are plenty of bits for them. do the solid lifter conversion, build up the motor nice and strong and enjoy.

Have you ever competed in any drift competitions before? I would love to know how you were sponsored 35K for a car that isn't built/competeing yet? nice work. :)

I work for a company called Zoom Motorsport here in the uk, i've been working my ass off for the last year saving my money to build the RB24DET up, he took me in the office and as a bonus or advert whatever agreed to give me what ever i wanted to complete the engine.

we have a custom paint shop, dyno pack rolling road, full engine build shop ect ect, so keeping the car running wouldn't be a problem to be honest.

Now i drove a RB24DET in a R32 that was running 420bhp and it was amazing, it was on a TD06-20G and it was scary. Also i've had a skyline lump in one of my s13 before, the thing i forgot to say was the car has been fitted with a new tunnel to move the engine back into the bulk head to move it behind the front axle line, this is how i've been able to have a Vmount set up.

I could go SR20DET as i have two bent cam motors at the shop, but thats borring tbh, The RB24DET is where i want to go, also i defo said a few things wrong in my excitment above, i want the engine to be built so it could run that type of power, but i wish to run at about 400bhp, maybe less for responce.

350bhp with responce would be ace.

Hence why i ask what spec do you think i need to make it.

SK your defo right witht what you said i know very well what you said make perfect sence.

Ok, i've got a TD06-20G just sitting here, would that be a good turbo for what i want?

My aim is to make an engine that car rev all day long.

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