Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ill try grab one in the new year :D

should still be on my tuners dyno.

my graph was similar to yours, RNZ11's graph is very snappy, mine was far more linear making solid power early and then a nice rise to the peak

That would be good, I'd be interested to have a look at it - thanks mate :P

did a 12.1 in it, it was still sliding all over the shop so i'd say its your driving :)  i did a 12.9 with 200rwkw

I know this is a little off topic, but is there any chance you have a copy of your timeslip somewhere?

I've done 6 or 7 runs in the thing since I got it back last month and I've got 12.7** @ 114-115mph on all but 1 run. I'd love to figure out where I'm loosing the time as my mph indicates that I should be running a fair bit quicker. Hopefully it's just my driving lol :D

  • Replies 333
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I just went for a drive in a mates 33. It has a GT30 with a .63 rear Hi mounted. It was making 12psi @ about 4000-4100 rpm in 2nd gear. It hasnt had a proper tune yet either.

Just thought id mention this :D

Edited by 33SOM
I just went for a drive in a mates 33. It has a GT30 with a .63 rear Hi mounted. It was making 12psi @ about 4000-4100 rpm in 2nd gear. It hasnt had a proper tune yet either.

Just thought id mention this :(

thats awesome. Can you get the stats of the turbo?

So guys, what do you think is a final solution?

leave the VG30 on, and get a smaller compressor wheel at the same time so the the ex side of things can get the compressor wheel spooling earlier, instead of this one where its too heavy and taking forever to build up speed?

I'm thinking thats the problem, the comp wheel is too heavy and grabby creating alot of weight on the exhaust side of things.

Maybe even a smaller comp wheel, and the RB25 ex housing? Becuse when I take this turbo off, I want to do it all at once to prevent fcuking around as I'm broke... :(

I would like a final suggestion from these people and anyone else that thinks they know what the go is :

Cubes

Discopotato

DaleFZ1

R31 Nismoid

BHdave

Thanks guys, you have been an excellent help for me.. I really appreciate it.

Edited by The Mafia

Do you have alternate wheels in the short term ? Or do you have enough std bits to get it back to std ?

If either is the case I'd pull the turbo /dump pipe off and try to sell it - trouble is you're selling someone your problem . Sell it with the oil and water fittings as they probably won't suit the next turbo and sweetener for the buyer . If you can wait till March there is supposed to be some real T3 flanged GT30 integral gate exhaust housings coming onto the market at long last . This should solve most of these dramas with GT30 based turbos . Little late I know but I wish the bastards would stop selling those turbos to the unsuspecting .

Anyway if you can turn the sow's ear into folding stuff its a start .

Cheers A .

I've got no standard bits :( I just wanted to change the compressor and and a few smaller things like that retaining the core.

Maybe I should just wait till garret releases this back end and put it on my GT30, and sell the VG30 housing?

take the turbo off, fit a hks gt-rs and be happy with around 260rwkw ish

you should be able to get that power fairly easily. given you don't have readily avaiable 98 octane fuel getting a big sucker that isn't as laggy wont help your situation. get a good responsive turbo that you can run mediocreish on normal unleaded and a tune to suit that. the gt-rs seemed to have best average power and least lag out of the 6 compared turbo's below

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...e=post&id=16353

estimated power comparison chart i made up from some of the dyno sheets found in the rb25 turbo upgrade pages

Do you have alternate wheels in the short term ?

Showing my ignorance of Garrett product, but can you share whether there is a suitable 76mm wheel in smaller trim size with fewer than 7 blades? If so, is it an expensive proposition to swap in a different impeller?

Still mulling over those flow maps you provided too - great stuff!!

The initial feeling is that the flow capabilities of the compressor and engine are mismatched, and I'm having a look at that aspect, with the assistance of the tutorials at turbobygarrett.com, and the maps provided by Discopotato03

Big power from a moderate-small capacity road engine while retaining low-lag (note : not lag-free) response is not going to be easy. 320 odd kW (crank) from 2.5 litres is big power, and that concept of average power through the range comes back into focus when looking at response and useable power. Otherwise all those engineers would have got all their turbo matches spot-on. It's clear to me that virtually all engineering requires a degree of compromise.

Paul, we don't know for sure whether fuel is a major issue or not. I believe Mafia has to try a simple test to eliminate that from the equation. In the absence of pump 98 octane, it might be worthwhile getting a quantity of aviation fuel and do a dyno run. That will give him some answers about the top-end pinging initially complained about.

The GT-RS would have to be a pretty good unit but there's not a lot of comment out there by people who are running them. Likewise the 2835 Pro-S, though I've heard they tend to come on with a rush (that coming from a member who is running a 2530, against his brother's 2835). As with most things it's a case of knowing what characteristics are most desired ie. the compromises to accept or reject.

I'll post a bit more later on.

cheers

I wish it was as simple as buying another compressor wheel and fitting it . If one was very lucky and came across the remains of a damaged turbo and good compressor it may be possible . Generally 2nd hand wheels are the only spares for the BB's but the situation may change next year .

I've no idea if there is any back spacing difference between the TO4S and 76mm GT wheels . The GT wheel would almost certainly have a different cross sectional profile and tip height so the housing would need to be re machined to suit and anyhow its a TO4S where the 76mm GT wheels use TO4E housings .

Even if you got that far the turbine is the cropped version so only HKS do exhaust housings in T3 flange to suit . Garrett do a factory bored out (bodged) GT28 integral gate housing that fits but it won't work much better than that bored VG30 and it has the wrong (T28) flange .

Sorry , wish I had some good news , A .

My suggestion.....

Don't waste money on fitting other turbo's etc just yet.

Pick up a running with good compression RB30e, don't rebuild it but simply drop your head on it. The comp ratio will drop to around 8.2-8.3:1 which will help with the 95ron fuel you are running.

See how the turbo goes then. Spool should drop 600-700rpm or so.

Thats if you can get away with doing the labour your self.

Sell off your good condition rb25det bottom end and you should break even. :D

Sky30 has done this... Picked up a good condition 270,000km RB30E for $50, dropped it in his R32 with an rb25 head, pushed some boost in to it via his rb20t high flow turbo and made 240rwkw, drove it like that for 1 year, pulled the turbo off dropped on a gt35r with a .82 machined up diesel internal gate housing, dialed in 19psi and made 312rwkw which has since been running for another year. In total he's racked up 40,000km's, he only rev's it to ~6500rpm.

Edited by Cubes

Damn! I like cubes' idea!

Trying the machined rb housing is probably the cheapest way you are going to get out of this and end of the day it may work wonders.

Messing around with the front end of the turbo is more likely going to cause further issue, particularly if you are going to need further machine work to fit alternate wheels into different front housings. By the time you do all that you may as well get another turbo.

Ideally i'd be looking for a smaller off the shelf internal gate turbo that is smack in the middle of it's efficiency at about 1 bar mainly due to the lack of 98 octane fuel you have. Id be setting a goal of around 230rwkw with very good response so a gtrs should do it, or a second hand hks2535, or even one of the 2871 range with an adapter (though thats not ideal).

But before i did any of that i'd spend the hundred on the rb exhaust housing trial. No point spending thousands without trying a cheap alternative.

Mafia

Few Q's

1) Have you had a chance to use fuel, and will you have a chance?

2) Have you thought about another tuner yet/spoken to somewhere else?

3) What are you exact goals from your car, what rpm you want boost/what power etc etc

I think that would help a tad for me to think some more :D

Mafia

Few Q's

1) Have you had a chance to use fuel, and will you have a chance?

2) Have you thought about another tuner yet/spoken to somewhere else?

3) What are you exact goals from your car, what rpm you want boost/what power etc etc

I think that would help a tad for me to think some more :D

no worries

1. Haven't managed any AV gas yet. Getting close though..

2. Haven't been able to leave town to see another tuner. The dude that did my car, sadly is the best we got.

3. I want full boost in 2nd \ 3rd all in by about 3500rpm max, earlier if possible.

Questions about the RB30de that sky30 dropped in cubes - Having that low of Compression, was it a dog off boost?

full boost being what? 10 or 20 psi? :D

So around 3500... hrm. Lemme have a thinkie thinkie.

You cant run a lot of boost due to the fuel, so its going to have to be a low boost style i think.

95ulp i still cry when i think about it!

Have you really thought about a 4-5 hours drive to somewhere else?

I mean for the sake of a good tune it might really be something to think about, i sure would be too.

hehe sorry, full boost - between 14 and 16 psi.

I am going to go to townsville and give it a good tune, but I don't know when I'll be able to make the trip. Might be heading up with a mate cause he needs to tune his beast too.

Going to be a bit of a waste of money but I guess if I want to get anywhere I will have to just do it. Surely he'll only need it for an hour to "touch it up" so hopefully I'll get away with $100 or so.

Questions about the RB30de that sky30 dropped in cubes - Having that low of Compression, was it a dog off boost?

Your forgetting about the snot load of extra torque the motor has. You wont notice any off boost lack of performance, only more.

I can take off in second and still spin the wheels :D

in your case it would be better to make more power on less boost due to your fuel situation so the rb30 block may be a good solution. you wont need to run as much as boost as youll have more torque and bottom end.

cubes

whats the rough price for block swap to the rb30 bloc (maybe just a quick clean and machine)

This is a awesome idea - when i had my rb25 with the vg30 housing my boost did not come on till about 3500. Installed the rb30det and i could get 5 6 psi at 1500rpm and full boost at 2600rpmish.

Its a completly different car to drive.. dont have to change gears soooo late in the rpm

My suggestion.....

Don't waste money on fitting other turbo's etc just yet.

Pick up a running with good compression RB30e, don't rebuild it but simply drop your head on it. The comp ratio will drop to around 8.2-8.3:1 which will help with the 95ron fuel you are running.

See how the turbo goes then. Spool should drop 600-700rpm or so.

Thats if you can get away with doing the labour your self.

Sell off your good condition rb25det bottom end and you should break even. :P

Sky30 has done this... Picked up a good condition 270,000km RB30E for $50, dropped it in his R32 with an rb25 head, pushed some boost in to it via his rb20t high flow turbo and made 240rwkw, drove it like that for 1 year,  pulled the turbo off dropped on a gt35r with a .82 machined up diesel internal gate housing, dialed in 19psi and made 312rwkw which has since been running for another year. In total he's racked up 40,000km's, he only rev's it to ~6500rpm.

My main point was the lower comp ratio the motor (rb30det) will have is much better suited to the 95ron fuel.

BUT.. The smaller turbine housing machine up is the cheapest option. If it doesn't work well.... RB30DET, vg30 turbine back on and enjoy. :P

I've just had a thought... hehehe :P

You could do this before or after you decide to play with the rb25 turbine housing in an attempt to improve spool.

You could post the turbo over to me.. I throw it on the rb30det, give it a quick wot tune that will cost me $100. Rip it off and post it back. I send you little video of its response, power made, ignition and fuel maps, datalogit logs the whole lot. :)

You will then know if its worth the hassle of the rb30det and so will I. :(

Edited by Cubes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...