Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sub Zero make modified intake plenums with the throttle body front mounted, supposed to be pretty good ones too. I think Greddy also make a modified inlet plenum for S1 R33's also?

"Games don't affect people. If Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all be running around in darkened rooms munching on pills and listening to repetitive music."

yeh you should do a search cause this topic has been coverd with some massive arguments for and against it, alot of interesting material too.

In short, it wont work properly as it was not designed to take air from the front of the plenum, but the centre. Look into it more before doing anything.

Normally only change plenum when you increase engine capacity.

Auto Salon did a review of the new bolt on Plazmaman intake plenum and intercooler upgrade last month. They said it made solid power gains, throttle response was sharper and the turbo spooled up a lot quicker. The install was done on a stock R33 GTST. But I have also read about them not working too well in some cases like r33 racer has said. I wonder what's so special about this kit? They do say that the kit was designed for high performance applications in mind though.

"Games don't affect people. If Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all be running around in darkened rooms munching on pills and listening to repetitive music."

I think the claim they made about 'the turbo spooling quicker' is based on the shortened intercooler piping, i.e. less lag. But I've read on these forums that the increase in ic piping doesn't really make all that much difference in lag times/throttle response, does it? In the test they claimed to have gained 17kw and 47Nm of torque, with a consistent power and torque increase through out the rev range. But I'm more inclined to believe that the stock plenum is fine.

"Games don't affect people. If Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all be running around in darkened rooms munching on pills and listening to repetitive music."

I think if u were to reuse the standard runners...you could in no way reuse the top throttle part of the intake, as it was designed to take air from the centre and go down evenly, not fed in from the front. A whole new top unit would have to be constructed to at least try and feed the air from front to back and try to cover all 6 runners evenly, even though the bottom runners were designed to work with the stock top chamber only. Im only a fabricator, but from what ive read and seen myself, modifying the std top chamber couldnt improve performance as a whole all over the range, if at any range at all. Either leave the std plenum alone, or use a fully custom plenum or greddy unit which incorporates chamber and runners ready to bolt onto the head. Now whether they increase your power or not is another different story which is also debatable, depends on your engine and setup as per bloudy usual.

like r33 racer said, original plenum is designed for a side feed.

the power increase will be mainly down to the intercooler upgrade.

increased throttle response/better spool will be down to the shorter piping without a doubt. tried and proven over and over again.

i don't expect it to improve power at all, i just have to have a front-inlet plenum because there's a supercharger and a GT40 on the other side of the engine. there is no possibility of retaining the standard inlet design at all. instead of buying a custom unit i would prefer to just mod the standard one cleanly, but whether or not the charge distribution would be good at all is anyone's guess.

having said that, i have no more faith in a brand name plenum than a modified standard one, doing flow simulations on similar systems in solidworks has led me to the conclusion that it's basically all guess-and-check until the engine doesn't blow up. flow testing is largely useless for a complete system of inlet pipe-plenum chamber-runners as it doesn't simulate what's actually happening when the engine is on full song. pressurised air in a system feeding six runners out of a box is a LOT different to just pulling vacuum through the pipes individually and measuring how much comes out.

anyway enough ranting - how much did it cost you Booky?

get a purpose made one then, not a cut'n'shut which wasnt designed for the T/B to be on the front to begin with.

There is actually engineering behind it, doesnt have to be a Jap one.

Locally made properly designed ones are common

I have a cut and shut plenum identical to the one on the VL that i am looking at selling because i can get a greddy for $900 (brand new).

I have been told that the cut and shut is fine as long as you use a standard turbo and dont run more than 1 bar. The problem is that if you exceed that it will starve some of the cylinders.

If you where going to do a cut and shut you should probably cut a wedge out of the plenum starting at the front and increasing towards the back (then weld it up afterwards) so that your plenum tapers of towards the back. Then flow bench it and move the throttle body to the front and by then you could have just dont it properly and bought a greddy plenum (probably for the same amount of money)!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...