Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

r33 gtst getting......

gt3076r, power fc, z32, injectors, gtr fp, braided brake lines, k750 brake pads, shocks/springs/pineapples, greddy profec b. i miss my car sooo much, been carting around on dad's gutless fiesta, it's gonna be crazy jumping back into the 'new' r33 :yes:

r33 gtst getting......

gt3076r, power fc, z32, injectors, gtr fp, braided brake lines, k750 brake pads, shocks/springs/pineapples, greddy profec b. i miss my car sooo much, been carting around on dad's gutless fiesta, it's gonna be crazy jumping back into the 'new' r33 :thumbsup:

Good choice there mate i had the same turbo setup in my 33 when i was living in hobart!!! Goes bloody hard. Let me know how you go when you get her tuned up!

Cheers

Alan

New GReddy FMIC & Coilovers are on now woot woot :thumbsup: Lotsa new bits to come...

New paint & wheels also - Custom brakes, internals and turbo setup... Should be done within the next few months, can't wait!!

post-42468-1203574951_thumb.jpg

post-42468-1203574981_thumb.jpg

post-42468-1203575003_thumb.jpg

post-42468-1203575032_thumb.jpg

post-42468-1203575056_thumb.jpg

post-42468-1203575103_thumb.jpg

post-42468-1203575125_thumb.jpg

post-42468-1203575141_thumb.jpg

Good choice there mate i had the same turbo setup in my 33 when i was living in hobart!!! Goes bloody hard. Let me know how you go when you get her tuned up!

Cheers

Alan

what result did you get eg what power @ what psi. when did it hit full boost, how user freindly was it?

which exhaust housing was it

car tuned again tonight. found the turbo had a leaking oil seal. oil through out the coolerpiping and intercooler. yay. blows smoke like thomas the tank engine.

still going to run this weekends drift day but we left the 5psi boost it had. i need to sort it by next weekend thoe for drift australia.

rb25de+t is an orsome combo. very pleased i did it.

what result did you get eg what power @ what psi. when did it hit full boost, how user freindly was it?

which exhaust housing was it

Hi mate,

Had the .82 houseing on it!

Max power had it up to was about 283rwkw on 18-19psi and full boost about 3900-4000rpm (big cams). Need a surge tank setup and would have made 300. But that was on a built motor aswell.

As for user friendly there is not such thing! In the wet forget up touch boost unless your ready to hang on!

But other than that its a great turbo and in the dry if you drive it right its great!

Probably got a couple of old dyno sheets some where!

I think the guy that bought the car off me has a heap that i left in the car to!

But let me know how you go with it

Cheers

ALan

i had some dash plastics on the rx7 retrimmed to block off some useless controls (heater, cd, ashtray, lighter etc). looks heaps better than the scratchy plastic coating that used to be on display. going to fill the stezza din space with that sheet of carbon and mount some switches and the fc commander on it.

dash1.jpg

dash2.jpg

i had some dash plastics on the rx7 retrimmed to block off some useless controls (heater, cd, ashtray, lighter etc). looks heaps better than the scratchy plastic coating that used to be on display. going to fill the stezza din space with that sheet of carbon and mount some switches and the fc commander on it.

dash1.jpg

dash2.jpg

Looks like some more quality work by Griffo, i really need to get my seats to him to show them some love :P

are you sure your not biulding a show car? haha

djrift - haha, just wanted to make what does go back in is as neat as possible.

gmb - yeah hes pretty hand with this stuff.

ps. my new twin turbos arrived today, not gonna do a single conversion for a coupla years.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys well my car has been off the road now for about 4 months im doing the rb25det head to rb30et bottom end rebuild, my car was lacking power so i stripped the whole rb25det engine down and found 6 cracked pistons, bought a complete rb30 engine from the wreckers for about 350 dollars striped that down, sent my block do get acid cleaned, bored, and honed

Im waiting on my head to get back from getting a rebuild and my crankshaft pulley,clutch,flywheel,cranshaft,rods and pistons from getting balanced one i get that back we can start building my engine

i got a complete rebuild kit to suit the engine im building this includes

1mm ACL MLS Headgasket

Forged 20 thou oversized CP Pistons

Precision H-Beam Rods

Bearings,Gaskets,seals

other items i have bought to date include

Apexi Power FC

T3/T4 turbo

Extreme heavy duty clutch

Extreme light weight chrome-molly flywheel

aftermarket smaller crankshaft pulley

Walbro fuel pump

fuel regulator

items i need to finish the job

N1 oil pump

M1 water pump

thermo fan

surge tank

740cc nismo injectors

surge tank

oil catch can

split fire coil packs

Q45 throttle body

Q45 airflow meter

Plazmaman plenum or greddy plenum

new pipework

cant wait to its finally finished missing it already hoping to get around the 300rwkw mark so far it has cost me alot of money and time but in the end i hope it will be worth it

im doing the 25/30 thing at the moment. It will be nice to have more torque over the 25.

Yeah it gets expensive fast. My bottom end was over 8K to have built. But my goal is a little more than 300kw as my 25 made 399kw

Good luck with it anyway

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...