Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

had today off as we had a big weekend, got the dust box out of the garage into the magic day it has been and stripped out some unwanted wiring.

thats the ariel wiring, rear wiper motor wiring, rear demistor, Hicas, rear speakers, boot tail lamp, boot latch sensor, door open sensors and a few other odds and ends.

still got the head unit and speaker wiring to come out, side mirrors wiring,

re wired the relays in the boot for external pumps and rewired the lift pump.

thinking about making carbon door trims, have been offered some carbon sheet, will see how what kind of coin he has in mind.

door trims weigh up around the 3kg mark speakers 1.5ish and electric mirrors 1.9ish close to 2 and hoping to save 2kgs atleast on lexan door screens each door. i'll be happy if i can get 12kgs total out of the doors and they remain looking nice clean simply and tidy.

another thing that I will look at one day is a alloy exhaust, there is some special grades that will take up to 600 degrees and will do the job after the dump. would save a bucket load of weight, Ryan (Capel) said they work out lighter than a Ti exhaust of same diamensions. anyway mine sounds shmick so will put up with the 20kg odd SS one for the time being =)

cheers

post-47373-0-82722000-1333350565_thumb.jpg

they run alloy exhausts a bit in the states, full race put one on the s14r thing but it blew out due to rubbing against a power steer line or something. got ages to think about it, only have about 1 trillion other things I need to do before I worry about it lol

yup I'm at 90kgs atm myself =) I'm going to try get the Datto into the 1200 bracket (keeping it clean and neat, without turning it into a heap of shit) with min fuel, should get there.

I'm not going to bother with too much weight saving off the car until the driver gets down to an acceptable weight. (goal is under 90kg)

at least youre thinking logically Pete, so many times you see people with the weight of their car + driver trying to get rid of that last couple kg when they probably should be looking at their body weight instead of car weight

Well stuff all that weight saving boys you can keep that (for a year or two anyway) More excitingly Is the fact that this weekend I should be firing up the GTR for the first time since the rebuild. Everything's pretty much back together got a few things left like install radiator, catch can and fill coolant/oil but hopefully by the end of easter it should be pretty much ready to send off for a tune! Just a few pic's for inspiration lol.

post-58307-0-86295100-1333447912_thumb.jpg post-58307-0-44520400-1333447890_thumb.jpg post-58307-0-91725800-1333447873_thumb.jpg post-58307-0-27007200-1333447852_thumb.jpg

continuing to strip bits from the rear end today and prep the boot arear for paint. removed the battery base to find... MORE bloody sound deaner. nearly went into shock so quickly armed myself with the heat gun and my trusty scraper, took no more than 5 minutes for the horror to end. turns out its the stuff that wont freeze out, its the stuff you have to heat anyway so came out cleanly.

happy easter folks =)

Well Finally after a long 2 year wait the GTR finally comes to life! Spent all day saturday and most of yesterday troubleshooting and trying to work out why it wouldn't fire only to find out that with the new injectors I have I dont need to run the resistor dox. 30 second fix and fired up first turn! Thanks again to Burgz for sugessting to check that cause I was on the last straw ready to hand it over to someone who actually knew what they were doing lol.

Edited by trustr32

I've got a few questions if anyone can help.

First is...our diff in the R32 is start to single peg occasionally so we are thinking of shimming it up, however I was wondering how it will effect handling for normal circuit work (not drifting). I've read that it will cause understeer on initial turn in, but just wondering how bad is it and do the pros outweigh the cons?

Also, on a different subject, is it worth having semi slicks on the front for drifting?

Regarding the diff shimming mate, from my experience running one in my car it didn't cause any undster issues. I bought a second diff so I could shim the new one so it was ready to go straight in and then have the old housing there to put a decent 2 way in or maybe 1.5 way when i get around to it. I stripped the new diff I got down, was in great condition and had 2.2mm of preload in already. I fitted another .8mm in there to give it a total of 3mm. I Put some really thick 80-140 or so nulon oil in and it has been quiet and reliable ever since. Permanent loctite on all the crown wheel bolts, bolts and threads cleaned properly before reasembley and let to dry overnight before I topped it up with oil. Handling wise, it just magnified how shit my coilovers were. And it became a big handful. I drove around it but on power in a few spots around basky was wild, mainly turn one under the bridge. Car still rotates well, just power down corner exit becomes a whole new ball game. Hoping whole new shocks/springs geometry/ aero and new tires makes life easier. I plan to get a good mechanical when I can but not at the top of the todo list just yet. The other option is a gtr rear cradle, gtr drive shafts(thicker, more rotating mass) alloy rear hubs (lighter) and a gtr diff can be shimmed with nismo gear. Also u must run gtr rear shocks. Anyways enough ranting, give it ago does work and is a cheap solution to single pegging but obviously not as good as a mechanical.

Edited by Mr. Untouchable

Well stuff all that weight saving boys you can keep that (for a year or two anyway) More excitingly Is the fact that this weekend I should be firing up the GTR for the first time since the rebuild. Everything's pretty much back together got a few things left like install radiator, catch can and fill coolant/oil but hopefully by the end of easter it should be pretty much ready to send off for a tune! Just a few pic's for inspiration lol.

This up and running yet mate?

Also, on a different subject, is it worth having semi slicks on the front for drifting?

I don't know from experience or anything close to it :P but wouldn't it be pretty damned hard to get them up to a good working temperature at the start of the runs, giving you less traction than normal?

Maybe someone like Djrift or zoid (or anyone with drift experience) could confirm?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
    • Not yet quite as bad as what we've seen a Jim Berry clutch do in an R32 GTR though when it decided to cut a chassis rail in half... Still very very gnarly and a great reason to avoid.
×
×
  • Create New...