Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so currently my car has a turbo back exhaust and pod filter and boost hits about 11psi and drops to 10, im about to install a jjr return flow intercooler will it make the boost go up again? I know the stock ecu has a shit fit if theres too much boost, should i get a boost t to prevent that from happening? or should it be ok...

A 'boost teee' isn't going to get you less boost.

I don't think you'll see anymore than 1 psi or so increase with a different cooler, if any at all.

Justin.

Edited by XRATED

Ah k yeah I get what you mean, should have thought about that, thanks

Didn't think it would go too crazy, just read things about having too much boost on stock ecu, but I guess it's people turning it up themselves

When you planning on hitting the track Toffy?

honestly im not totally sure mate , i want the car tuned by the end of the month with all the goodies on it i've accumulated , it only needs indicators for the front and a rear ball joint (and wheels, which are on another car) to pass rego which will be done next week , then i can go to town on it :D . hopefully early Feb i want to take it out on a practice day/private track day or whatever you call it to do a little test and tune , then im hoping to make the first drift prac . it could all go to poo if something goes wrong with the car though , but that's my aim :)

When will yours be out and tearing up the track?!

Edited by toffy

I hate setting goals as I always seem to underestimate how much time things will take, but the good news is that everything is starting to go back in the car. I'd like to say it will be track ready by the end of the month but there's a couple of potentially time consuming things that are out of our control, so we'll see what happens :)

installed my return flow fmic wasnt too hard just takes a lot of fiddling around, doesnt help being massively hungover...

pretty happy with it just went for a drive and pretty surprised by the temp diff on either pipe.

next to change my thermostat and coolant then onto powercruise :D

hmmm so i changed my thermostat and bled the system ect ect, then went for a drive and then looked under the bonnet to see that coolant was coming from between the thermostat housing and block, so looks like the gasket sealant i used didnt work/i didnt use enough.

http://www.permatex.com/products/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-sealants/permatex--aviation-form-a-gasket--no--3-sealant-liquid-detail

that is what i used, left it overnight and then filled with coolant.

cause i have to do it again, should i use that stuff again?

i also have this:

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Permatex-High-Temp-RTV-Silicone-Gasket-Maker-Red-85G.aspx?pid=114981&menuFrom=51001#Cross

which would be better, i found that the first stuff i used, you couldnt use alot cause it would just drip, sort off cause it was too much like a liquid...

hmmm so i changed my thermostat and bled the system ect ect, then went for a drive and then looked under the bonnet to see that coolant was coming from between the thermostat housing and block, so looks like the gasket sealant i used didnt work/i didnt use enough.

http://www.permatex....t-liquid-detail

that is what i used, left it overnight and then filled with coolant.

cause i have to do it again, should i use that stuff again?

i also have this:

http://www.superchea...rom=51001#Cross

which would be better, i found that the first stuff i used, you couldnt use alot cause it would just drip, sort off cause it was too much like a liquid...

rb thermostat gaskets are pretty hard to do with sealant

it took me about 5 goes to do the stagea

the easiest way is to spend $3 on an actual gasket from supercheap

rb thermostat gaskets are pretty hard to do with sealant

it took me about 5 goes to do the stagea

the easiest way is to spend $3 on an actual gasket from supercheap

ha ha i was annoyed already at having to do it twice! 5 would make me crack the shits!

but i used the ultra grey and it would perfect.

had no problems at powercruise :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...