Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 9/19/2019 at 1:45 PM, ESSEJ said:

Reviving an oldie!

Dear wheel gods,

I'm eyeing off some enkei 17x8 +38 for my S1 dayz manual converted... 

Will they fit??

Cheers

Here is my S1 with some no -name rims I was using for the track . They were 17 x 8.5 offset +17 so fit the body ok but whether they clear the brakes depends on the profile. I had previously had some Enkeis on the car so chances are good. Are you close enough to test fit?

Sorry - it was a few years ago now...I think I had 10mm spacers on the back and possibly 20mm on the front....

Track rims.JPG

  • 9 months later...
6 hours ago, touchmyDDz said:

Hi I've got a c34 rs rwd just wondering if any one is run rota d2-ex 18×9.5 15 offset before I spend 2 grand on rim's that dont fit

I would guess not. To be sure find such a wheel and trial fit it OR look at the wheels on your car check the width and offset and make the calculations to see where they would end up.

Below my C34 with 18 x 8 +30

Stagea 2014 M35 Wheels.jpg

So, I searched "backspacing"and this came up, but somehow couldn't find it in the text... anyone know what the backspacing is (i.e. distance from wheel mounting face to coilovers) on a 2000 WGNC34 260RS (MT)? 

I have an R34 face so I can't (immediately) tell if it's a S1 or an S2, but I assume it's a S2.  

My car is about to come with 9.5J +22 with 3mm spacers (i.e. 9.5J +19), and I assume the spacers are there for backspacing rather than poke, since I only just learned that the rears don't have much space! 

I was told/read that 9J +15 should fit, but close. 

I originally wanted to run Z34 19*10.5J +23, and thought I'd need at least a 20mm spacer in the rear for that, plus some gnarly camber to fit them within the guards -- especially if I run the 255/30-19 that I intended to.  But now I'm worried it might be a 25mm spacer, which would mean, basically, Overfenders... which aren't tenable. 

Does someone have the actual distance so I can calculate on paper before taking delivery of the car?  

Much appreciated!!

  • 2 years later...
  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...