Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

It just sounds like the BOV is too loose. Can you tighten the Blitz unit?

But yes, I'm not a big fan of atmo BOVs either. If my induction is going to make noise on throttle-off, I'd rather it flutter than sneeze.

I put a GFB basic on my car for a few weeks and although I liked the smoother gear changes and didn't mind the sound at first, it ended up grating on me and I removed it. Compressor surge is so much more tolerable than going whoosh every time you back off a bit.

It just sounds like the BOV is too loose. Can you tighten the Blitz unit?

i'd put my money on the BOV needing adjusting.

stalling issues and sluggish acceleration can be due to the spring being too soft. when it vents, the bov is staying open for too long = stall. if you are giving the car shit, the bov may open = crappier acceleration.

not sure about your fuel economy either .. i get just over 12L/100kms, calculated by distance travelled and how many litres it takes to fill up (the only real way to measure economy).

I don't see how an atmo BOV can affect fuel economy. the side effect of an atmo BOV is that the car runs rich due to the air escaping rather than being plumbed back in. But if you were running a plumbback, you would be still using the same amount of fuel .. just not running rich as all the air is still available?

I went the other way around. The car came with the HKS SSQV. If i changed gears next to other people they would jump in their cars. Until i discovered the stalling problems, mind you i have only owned the car for a day lol. Bought a stock plumb back bov. All is good. Still loud enough to hear the Pssshhh

I don't see how an atmo BOV can affect fuel economy. the side effect of an atmo BOV is that the car runs rich due to the air escaping rather than being plumbed back in. But if you were running a plumbback, you would be still using the same amount of fuel .. just not running rich as all the air is still available?

I'm assuming his car's running an AFM. Since an AFM expects the induction to be closed, it will pump the amount of fuel equal to the air that passes through the AFM.

If you're venting air out it'll run rich since you're actually getting less air into your engine than what its measured. On a car with a nicely sprung BOV it'll only run rich on throttle-off, so the exhaust will crackle and pop (and maybe puff some black smoke).

If the BOV is loose and leaking, then it'll run rich on throttle too. Since the thing's not making as much power (if you compare it at the various RPM points) you have to work the engine harder to go as quick.

i found from previous experience in my sil80 that having the spring loose or not loose doesnt effect the stalling issues associated with atmo bov's. that was until i plumbed it back - works a charm now, maybe try that to rectify you problems. funnily enough, the 'line doesnt have an aftermarket bov. personal preference, i dont mind the sound - the sil80 came with the aftermarket bov.

i'd put my money on the BOV needing adjusting.

Dido...

Not being argumentative, and not saying you need an aftermarket BOV, but i suspect many of the problems ppl have with aftermarket BOVs is the isntallation itself, not the function

Ive had a HKS Sequential, Super Sequential, Blitz, Apexi Dual Chamber, even a Monza HKS rip off. And i have never had the problems ppl describe. Hell the apparantly crappy Monza HKS knock off has been on my Skyline for over 12 months and it works fine. PPl tell me it leaks boost, but they have never used one, they just hear the name Monza and the stories start to roll. :(

I still run an AFM, and still get about 450kms per tank (city driving) and im running bigger turbo, injectors etc etc ... lol i aint too proud to admit im a ricer. I want as much induction noise, as much turbo whistle, as much BOV and atmo wastegate noise as possible. My god its turbo RB20...turbos are all about strange noises and bless them for it, without it they are just hoovers with no character at all, i mean my crappy old Valiant had a more exciting sound, even with a stuffed timing chain :D

this thread can will go on forever...ppl that have atmo bovs will say they are great and ppl that dont will always say the stock is the best...common ppl since when has anything stock ever been any good...im sure ppl will start saying that stock exhausts and coolers and fine now

If your having probs with your BOV just buy one that vents to the atmosphere and is also plumback use the SAFC to tune and the car will run great no idling probs etc. I reckon whatever floats someones boat really. You like BOV noise then do it, you dont then thats cool too :( We shouldnt alienate someone for wanting their car to look and sound a certain way cause thats the beauty about car modding you can do it your own way :D

Took mine off today and put back the stock one, the stall is just becoming a serious problem and annoying the hell out of me. Having no steering and braking control on a downhill is really making me shit my pants.

my 2c

I got one of the first GFB bov's. GFB used my car for the manifold plate. I have a plumb back one . It does make a slight bit of noise due to my filter and ram tube. Some cars handle dumping to atmos better than others. Remember this air being dumped to atmo has been through the AFM ,and the ecu has calculted the mixture.I think somebody told me you should use plumb backs on Skylines because of this.

Well I did what I set out to do and changed back to the stocker BOV. I had a little hiccup with the actuator hose (when I pulled my stock pipe out of the garage there was a hose attached to it...I have no idea how it got there).

I can tell you that all my issues are fixed now. The car explodes at the 4500 RPM like it used to....It's good to back back to the land of relative quickness.

I've read all the replies and I can take in the fact that the main issue was probably the adjustment of the BOV but to be honest, the sound gets really annoying. My car is also a daily driver and I don't wanna attract any more attention than I already have from the boys in blue.

See you guys around

...common ppl since when has anything stock ever been any good...im sure ppl will start saying that stock exhausts and coolers and fine now

Reasons stock BOV are good:

They work.

If you want sound, install a pod filter and they make the noise almost as loud as an atmo one.

Cost nothing.

Take no time to install.

Are not defectable.

Reasons stock BOV are bad:

Not loud enough for your taste...

I dont think your argument is valid, noone ever upgrades their floor mats. why? because they do their job well. Maybe if you made them out of carbon fibre you would have a little bit of weight saving?

What RHETT said.

Modifications are only better than "stock" for your intended application.

The stock exhaust does a much better job of muffling than any aftermarket one I've heard. Of course, most people don't replace the exhaust to make their cars quieter...but it depends on your aim. You could probably build an exhaust that flowed just as well as the factory one but was quieter, but no-one wants it.

As another exampled, if all you were running was a cat-back in your powertrain, it'd be a waste of time and money to drop a triple plate, high clamping force, clutch into the car. Sure, its "better" in the sense that its less likely to wear out or break, but your car doesn't need it for your application and now your clutch is a lot heavier and harder to launch smoothly.

The factory BOV does a better job than an aftermarket one in terms of idle quality and suitability in a light tune application. Only when you've cranked the boost beyond the ability for the factory BOV to cope (or you just want some fooli sik sounds to emanate from your induction system) do you need to replace it.

I found the smae problem. My car had the stock BOV and another HKS one along with an exposed POD.

After removing the atmo venting BOV I found response when you change gears was a lot better - it would jump quicker once going into the next gear that is. The sound was still there though.

I bought a stock snorkel and air filter box so now it is pretty quiet. But if you want a BOV noise you can just put on a POD and even the stock BOV makes quite a loud psht as you can hear it through the exposed POD...if thats what does it for you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...