Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cooling Pro R33 GTST Kit (stagea) Install + Z32 AFM with Tomei Plug + Pod

Things that i did-

Cut into metal bumper to fit cooler behind

Cut into Plastic bar to fit around the bottom of the cooler

Cut hole in the side of battery box for drivers side piping

and i used one stock pipe witch had to be cut down to fit on the passangers side because the one they supply didnt have a nipple thinger on it and im not sure what it does?

Relocate Windscreen wiper fluid bottle slightly to one side

Out come -

Hell of alot louder and more porn starish

Sounds like i now have a BOV

Not to sure about performance enhancements though

Next weekend I install the Gizzmo IBC

post-34650-1217750260_thumb.jpg

post-34650-1217750292_thumb.jpg

post-34650-1217750340_thumb.jpg

post-34650-1217750370_thumb.jpg

post-34650-1217750415_thumb.jpg

post-34650-1217750472_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 254
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hey my cooler got mucked up .. was the wrong one they sent didnt even fit ... sent it back and got new one costing 699 http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1

fitted up pefectly once the hole was cut and fan trimmed back .... having my snorkel and neo cover cut this week to fit so it looks neater .... only slight trimming on the bumper bar but it looks really neat here's a few pics .... will get more detailed ones if requested !

post-16976-1217844460_thumb.jpg

post-16976-1217844486_thumb.jpg

post-16976-1217844631_thumb.jpg

Edited by RBPOWA
hey guys need some opinions.. im going for the cheap just jap intercooler with 3 inch outlets. I am thinking of doing a custom pipe job 3 inch the whole way through instead of using the standard 1st pipe from the turbo like most kits. will this flow much better or not worth it? also do most r33 n r34 kits come with 3 or 2.5 inch pipe. my taget is 200kw is the 3 inch overkill?

the cooling pro are made in china ..hpi ones are made in japan ... steve from just jap told me after my kit didnt fit and returned it said somthing like 1-6 have a different bend in them.... so said he had no complaints on the HPI one read my last post got the link there

just a sujestion try this it still retained the original filler etc

ZOMG this could be the solution to my 2 year problem of no washer bottle lol..

just a quetion, i have a tiptronic r34,, i have some metal bar loop thingy thats there, has anyone here moved that thing'/? i unbolted it, but the metal simply wont bend, so i cant mount the washer bottle

ZOMG this could be the solution to my 2 year problem of no washer bottle lol..

just a quetion, i have a tiptronic r34,, i have some metal bar loop thingy thats there, has anyone here moved that thing'/? i unbolted it, but the metal simply wont bend, so i cant mount the washer bottle

take a pic and post .. my mech has 2 r34 auto's at his shop ... i can look and ask for you if i know what im looking for ... before wednesday so tomorrow asap and i'll check it out for ya

Hey guys, since a whole lot of us are asking on the forums what the go on the right type of cooler is; I thought I'd throw something in this thread just to see what everyones opinion is.

Option 1 - Cheap Cooling Pro Kit from just Jap.

Option 2 - Cheapish Cooling Pro Stealth Intercooler, essentially the same cooler as the cooling pro, but it uses stock piping. Huzzah!

Option 3 - Medium priced Trust/Greddy Spec M Intercooler; between 580-640 dollars depending on which buyer you buy them from. This is an example, I think Slide also has R34 ones for $620 dollars, however don't quote me on this.

Option 4 - Expensive as crap ARC Cooler kits. Use stock piping, however from what I've read on this forum, the core isn't as good as some of the cheaper alternatives. (This thread also states a specific TRUST V-SPL to suit WGNC34 for 1370).

Well these are the options presented from what I've read (and I do mean what I've read; not experienced myself). A Stagea series 1 and 2, can use both R34 and R33 intercooler kits. With the R34 the closest thing to the bank. The R33 just requires a little more hassle when it comes to the installation.

Nevertheless if someone could confirm this for me, or just tell me their opinion in regards to which cooler to get; I'm sure this will reduce the amount of threads in the future that ask for an opinion on which make/model intercooler to get.

Just an example for myself - I'm after doing a few light mods, full exhaust, FMIC, SAFC, EBC and not too much else. My target is 200AWKW with the stock auto gearbox and then we'll see from there =)

Edit: Also people have praised the Blitz LM intercoolers; only found one in the business traders section. 1450 delivered. While this may not be the best price, these kits generally go for over 1200.

Also I'd just like to note, the prices i'm throwing here via SAU's supporters maybe aren't the best possible prices; but they look to be pretty close.

Have you done the mods yet? That's pretty much what I'm doing to my car - got the full exhaust and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a new fuel pump fitted. I also have an SITC, and the Jaycar IEBC and DFA to fit when it stops raining and then a tune. I have fitted a Trust SMIC ( bigger still than the R34 GTT unit) and hope to get to 200AWKW with that (partly for cheapness -it only cost $90 and partly for the stock appearance). If I can't make the power (and I'm really expecting 160 to 180 then I'll highflow my turbo or get an R34 turbo highflowed. I expect that should get me to 200 but if its really strangled or I decide I need a bit more power I might have to crack and get a FMIC. I''l let you know. Please let us know if you have had a dyno run (and what stage your car's at).

  • 3 weeks later...

Guys,

not sure if this has been posted but i recently purchased a CPSTEALTH-ECR33 just jap kit

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=271&page=2

it was listed for a R33 but i purchased it anyway thinking it should be the same.

fitted it up and it was a direct fit no mods needed what so ever all you need is some little spanners/ sockets and a rum :).

all up took 45 minutes on and off with a few smoke breaks :).

I am cheering with the quality and fitment of it too :)

fmic1.jpg

fmic3.jpg

yea the bodykit doesn't appreciate speedbumps thats for sure. I need to get a new bumper casue mine is broken on both sides from kerb damage cause my older bro borrowed the car and smashed the front bar and ripped the bumper off. i was not impressed.

Guys,

not sure if this has been posted but i recently purchased a CPSTEALTH-ECR33 just jap kit

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=271&page=2

it was listed for a R33 but i purchased it anyway thinking it should be the same.

fitted it up and it was a direct fit no mods needed what so ever all you need is some little spanners/ sockets and a rum :).

all up took 45 minutes on and off with a few smoke breaks :P.

I am cheering with the quality and fitment of it too :)

fmic1.jpg

fmic3.jpg

Fantastic job on the installation, well done.

Thank you for the feedback, it is greatly appreciated :)

Cheers,

Steve

greedy plenum, 80mm hypertune throttle body, 600x300x75 FMIC, stainless piping, turbosmart silicone hoses, turbosmart bleed valve running 12psi.

post-49281-1219758185_thumb.jpg post-49281-1219758320_thumb.jpg

post-49281-1219758456_thumb.jpgpost-49281-1219758610_thumb.jpg

hey that does look nice ... how does it run with the plenum ? i've been told that using that setup can cause some sort of drama's and that the standard plenum is obiously set up that way for a reason ... have u had any drama's ?

Haven't had a single problem at all, If anything it has improved cause of such short intercooler piping.

Fitted Nismo Fuel pump and FPR, r34 turbo with RB20 wastegate act (runs 10psi standard), s15 480cc injectors (was going to go 555cc but @ $50 per s15 480cc wasn't worth the extra $$) yesterday, and have PFC at Hills Motorsport atm getting modified for stagea so once that back its on the rollers for a tune. Cant wait to see the results of tune......

  • 1 month later...
Guys,

not sure if this has been posted but i recently purchased a CPSTEALTH-ECR33 just jap kit

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=271&page=2

it was listed for a R33 but i purchased it anyway thinking it should be the same.

fitted it up and it was a direct fit no mods needed what so ever all you need is some little spanners/ sockets and a rum :thumbsup: .

all up took 45 minutes on and off with a few smoke breaks :D .

I am cheering with the quality and fitment of it too :)

fmic1.jpg

fmic3.jpg

Do you know if that will bolt straight onto a series 2??

Alex,

I guess it would bolt on for a S2.. I've just brought one for my car and will be putting it in very soon. when I do it i'll take some photos. I brought the R34 kit i'm guessing it should fit (just now Just Jap have a Stagea one aswell)

Steve did you have to trim the reo bar to make it fit or was it a straight up bolt on job

my main concern is my bar has that giant chunk in the middle where the number plate goes n it would look quite messy if i cut it out, plus my plate is big (height wise) so its kinda hard to mount it in other areas as it looks kinda odd...heres a couple of pics so u can see exactly what i mean....

07102008360.jpg

29.jpg

Yeah i know what you mean - i'm going to have the same issue.. I'm thinking of cutting it out as well but the major issue I have is that you will have gaps at the top and the bottom of the bar where it use to be and doesn't look too good...

You've got a Dayz front bar - which makes your choice to cut the bar or not more difficult

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...