Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cooling Pro R33 GTST Kit (stagea) Install + Z32 AFM with Tomei Plug + Pod

Things that i did-

Cut into metal bumper to fit cooler behind

Cut into Plastic bar to fit around the bottom of the cooler

Cut hole in the side of battery box for drivers side piping

and i used one stock pipe witch had to be cut down to fit on the passangers side because the one they supply didnt have a nipple thinger on it and im not sure what it does?

Relocate Windscreen wiper fluid bottle slightly to one side

Out come -

Hell of alot louder and more porn starish

Sounds like i now have a BOV

Not to sure about performance enhancements though

Next weekend I install the Gizzmo IBC

post-34650-1217750260_thumb.jpg

post-34650-1217750292_thumb.jpg

post-34650-1217750340_thumb.jpg

post-34650-1217750370_thumb.jpg

post-34650-1217750415_thumb.jpg

post-34650-1217750472_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 254
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hey my cooler got mucked up .. was the wrong one they sent didnt even fit ... sent it back and got new one costing 699 http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...at=0&page=1

fitted up pefectly once the hole was cut and fan trimmed back .... having my snorkel and neo cover cut this week to fit so it looks neater .... only slight trimming on the bumper bar but it looks really neat here's a few pics .... will get more detailed ones if requested !

post-16976-1217844460_thumb.jpg

post-16976-1217844486_thumb.jpg

post-16976-1217844631_thumb.jpg

Edited by RBPOWA
hey guys need some opinions.. im going for the cheap just jap intercooler with 3 inch outlets. I am thinking of doing a custom pipe job 3 inch the whole way through instead of using the standard 1st pipe from the turbo like most kits. will this flow much better or not worth it? also do most r33 n r34 kits come with 3 or 2.5 inch pipe. my taget is 200kw is the 3 inch overkill?

the cooling pro are made in china ..hpi ones are made in japan ... steve from just jap told me after my kit didnt fit and returned it said somthing like 1-6 have a different bend in them.... so said he had no complaints on the HPI one read my last post got the link there

just a sujestion try this it still retained the original filler etc

ZOMG this could be the solution to my 2 year problem of no washer bottle lol..

just a quetion, i have a tiptronic r34,, i have some metal bar loop thingy thats there, has anyone here moved that thing'/? i unbolted it, but the metal simply wont bend, so i cant mount the washer bottle

ZOMG this could be the solution to my 2 year problem of no washer bottle lol..

just a quetion, i have a tiptronic r34,, i have some metal bar loop thingy thats there, has anyone here moved that thing'/? i unbolted it, but the metal simply wont bend, so i cant mount the washer bottle

take a pic and post .. my mech has 2 r34 auto's at his shop ... i can look and ask for you if i know what im looking for ... before wednesday so tomorrow asap and i'll check it out for ya

Hey guys, since a whole lot of us are asking on the forums what the go on the right type of cooler is; I thought I'd throw something in this thread just to see what everyones opinion is.

Option 1 - Cheap Cooling Pro Kit from just Jap.

Option 2 - Cheapish Cooling Pro Stealth Intercooler, essentially the same cooler as the cooling pro, but it uses stock piping. Huzzah!

Option 3 - Medium priced Trust/Greddy Spec M Intercooler; between 580-640 dollars depending on which buyer you buy them from. This is an example, I think Slide also has R34 ones for $620 dollars, however don't quote me on this.

Option 4 - Expensive as crap ARC Cooler kits. Use stock piping, however from what I've read on this forum, the core isn't as good as some of the cheaper alternatives. (This thread also states a specific TRUST V-SPL to suit WGNC34 for 1370).

Well these are the options presented from what I've read (and I do mean what I've read; not experienced myself). A Stagea series 1 and 2, can use both R34 and R33 intercooler kits. With the R34 the closest thing to the bank. The R33 just requires a little more hassle when it comes to the installation.

Nevertheless if someone could confirm this for me, or just tell me their opinion in regards to which cooler to get; I'm sure this will reduce the amount of threads in the future that ask for an opinion on which make/model intercooler to get.

Just an example for myself - I'm after doing a few light mods, full exhaust, FMIC, SAFC, EBC and not too much else. My target is 200AWKW with the stock auto gearbox and then we'll see from there =)

Edit: Also people have praised the Blitz LM intercoolers; only found one in the business traders section. 1450 delivered. While this may not be the best price, these kits generally go for over 1200.

Also I'd just like to note, the prices i'm throwing here via SAU's supporters maybe aren't the best possible prices; but they look to be pretty close.

Have you done the mods yet? That's pretty much what I'm doing to my car - got the full exhaust and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a new fuel pump fitted. I also have an SITC, and the Jaycar IEBC and DFA to fit when it stops raining and then a tune. I have fitted a Trust SMIC ( bigger still than the R34 GTT unit) and hope to get to 200AWKW with that (partly for cheapness -it only cost $90 and partly for the stock appearance). If I can't make the power (and I'm really expecting 160 to 180 then I'll highflow my turbo or get an R34 turbo highflowed. I expect that should get me to 200 but if its really strangled or I decide I need a bit more power I might have to crack and get a FMIC. I''l let you know. Please let us know if you have had a dyno run (and what stage your car's at).

  • 3 weeks later...

Guys,

not sure if this has been posted but i recently purchased a CPSTEALTH-ECR33 just jap kit

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=271&page=2

it was listed for a R33 but i purchased it anyway thinking it should be the same.

fitted it up and it was a direct fit no mods needed what so ever all you need is some little spanners/ sockets and a rum :).

all up took 45 minutes on and off with a few smoke breaks :).

I am cheering with the quality and fitment of it too :)

fmic1.jpg

fmic3.jpg

yea the bodykit doesn't appreciate speedbumps thats for sure. I need to get a new bumper casue mine is broken on both sides from kerb damage cause my older bro borrowed the car and smashed the front bar and ripped the bumper off. i was not impressed.

Guys,

not sure if this has been posted but i recently purchased a CPSTEALTH-ECR33 just jap kit

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=271&page=2

it was listed for a R33 but i purchased it anyway thinking it should be the same.

fitted it up and it was a direct fit no mods needed what so ever all you need is some little spanners/ sockets and a rum :).

all up took 45 minutes on and off with a few smoke breaks :P.

I am cheering with the quality and fitment of it too :)

fmic1.jpg

fmic3.jpg

Fantastic job on the installation, well done.

Thank you for the feedback, it is greatly appreciated :)

Cheers,

Steve

greedy plenum, 80mm hypertune throttle body, 600x300x75 FMIC, stainless piping, turbosmart silicone hoses, turbosmart bleed valve running 12psi.

post-49281-1219758185_thumb.jpg post-49281-1219758320_thumb.jpg

post-49281-1219758456_thumb.jpgpost-49281-1219758610_thumb.jpg

hey that does look nice ... how does it run with the plenum ? i've been told that using that setup can cause some sort of drama's and that the standard plenum is obiously set up that way for a reason ... have u had any drama's ?

Haven't had a single problem at all, If anything it has improved cause of such short intercooler piping.

Fitted Nismo Fuel pump and FPR, r34 turbo with RB20 wastegate act (runs 10psi standard), s15 480cc injectors (was going to go 555cc but @ $50 per s15 480cc wasn't worth the extra $$) yesterday, and have PFC at Hills Motorsport atm getting modified for stagea so once that back its on the rollers for a tune. Cant wait to see the results of tune......

  • 1 month later...
Guys,

not sure if this has been posted but i recently purchased a CPSTEALTH-ECR33 just jap kit

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=271&page=2

it was listed for a R33 but i purchased it anyway thinking it should be the same.

fitted it up and it was a direct fit no mods needed what so ever all you need is some little spanners/ sockets and a rum :thumbsup: .

all up took 45 minutes on and off with a few smoke breaks :D .

I am cheering with the quality and fitment of it too :)

fmic1.jpg

fmic3.jpg

Do you know if that will bolt straight onto a series 2??

Alex,

I guess it would bolt on for a S2.. I've just brought one for my car and will be putting it in very soon. when I do it i'll take some photos. I brought the R34 kit i'm guessing it should fit (just now Just Jap have a Stagea one aswell)

Steve did you have to trim the reo bar to make it fit or was it a straight up bolt on job

my main concern is my bar has that giant chunk in the middle where the number plate goes n it would look quite messy if i cut it out, plus my plate is big (height wise) so its kinda hard to mount it in other areas as it looks kinda odd...heres a couple of pics so u can see exactly what i mean....

07102008360.jpg

29.jpg

Yeah i know what you mean - i'm going to have the same issue.. I'm thinking of cutting it out as well but the major issue I have is that you will have gaps at the top and the bottom of the bar where it use to be and doesn't look too good...

You've got a Dayz front bar - which makes your choice to cut the bar or not more difficult

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...