Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

here is a couple of pics that you can sort out to show us how to do the HICAS removal is done/fitted,

cheers garry.

-pete

(p.s sorry for the 2mb of pics (for the people on dial-up) i'm drunk and cbf shrinkin the pics, l8r.)

post-12023-1140607188.jpg

post-12023-1140607230.jpg

post-12023-1140607356.jpg

post-12023-1140607396.jpg

From yet ANOTHER HICAS thread.................

I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

The Blue dot is the power steering cooler

The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.

HICAS_Schematic_Bypass1.jpg

No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose. If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out. There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

:( cheers :D

OK.....

i have a picture of the HICAS solenoid i hope the picture can make sense for me and all the other HICAS frenzie removalist out there..

after you join them you can freely remove the whole HICAS system?? (aslong as you have a lock bar of course)

what do you think Sydneykid?

post-12023-1140862108.jpg

post-12023-1140862143.jpg

OK.....

i have a picture of the HICAS solenoid i hope the picture can make sense for me and all the other HICAS frenzie removalist out there..

after you join them you can freely remove the whole HICAS system?? (aslong as you have a lock bar of course)

what do you think Sydneykid?

Join the hoses you marked in red and the rear stage of the pump will just feed throught the cooler.

The rest of the hicas system can be removed.

If you remove the ECU the dash light will stay off too.

It wont be high pressure after you remove the hicas solenoid though, just more flow.

Join the hoses you marked in red and the rear stage of the pump will just feed throught the cooler.

The rest of the hicas system can be removed.

If you remove the ECU the dash light will stay off too.

It wont be high pressure after you remove the hicas solenoid though, just more flow.

sweet thanxs champ,

where will i find the HICAS ECU?

If you remove the HICAS ECU, do you lose the speed sensitive power steering? Cause when the speed sensor wire to my HICAS ECU was cut my steering was in heavy mode all the time.

HICAS ECU is under the parcel shelf in the boot. Steering at very low speed was heavy with the lock bar installed and the ECU still connected. Remove ECU and steering still heavy at < 20kmh but dash light goes out.

As noted in the many pages of my tutorial, extra castor will make the low speed heaviness almost impossible to detect and improve turn in response.

Hmmm so...even with fitment of the lock bars and the HICAS Pump hoses re-rooted etc everyone who does this mod still has the heavy steering all the time ?

I had an 'off' at a racetrack a few months back, since then my HICAS light has been on and steering has gone heavy 24/7. I would really like to get rid of the heavy steering and thought the Lock bar etc would be the go, but not if it dont fix the heavy steering :woot: ......

Hmmm so...even with fitment of the lock bars and the HICAS Pump hoses re-rooted etc everyone who does this mod still has the heavy steering all the time ?

I had an 'off' at a racetrack a few months back, since then my HICAS light has been on and steering has gone heavy 24/7. I would really like to get rid of the heavy steering and thought the Lock bar etc would be the go, but not if it dont fix the heavy steering :woot: ......

Who said all the time? See my post. Steering is only heavy(er) < 20kmh. All other times its no different. Event with it heavy(er), I dont care as it only marginally heavier anyway.

If you have heavy steering 24/7, best be getting that checked out, cant see a lock bar and re-route fixing anything there.

  • 3 weeks later...

ok one more time for the dummies, i'm guessing those pics were from a gts-t

basically for a 32 gtr, if you connect the high pressure hose join points directly under the sway bar on the drivers side with low pressure hose all will be good, also joining the new hose to the in and out points of where the steering rack used to be is good also

just making sure

ok one more time for the dummies, i'm guessing those pics were from a gts-t

basically for a 32 gtr, if you connect the high pressure hose join points directly under the sway bar on the drivers side with low pressure hose all will be good, also joining the new hose to the in and out points of where the steering rack used to be is good also

just making sure

They are from a R32 RB20DET GTS-4, But i have been informed that the GTS-t, GTS-4 & GTR have all the same HICAS setup :D.

R33, R34 Are diffrent because they are electronic. :P

Edited by meep
Not all R32 hydraulic systems are the same.

GTS-T has a shared resivour system. GTS-4 and GTR have a remote resovior system.

Please delete this post, its is WRONG and people will read it and believe it.

The power steering (inc HICAS) reservoir is in the engine bay, on the LHS inner guard just behind the airbox.

The ATTESA reservoir is located in the boot, in the RHS inner guard.

They are in no way joined, shared or common. R32GTST, R32GTS4 and R32GTR power steering systems (inc HICAS) are the same.

:P cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid

OK guys people are asking about the heavy stearing when the hicus and hicus ec is removed.

Does anyone know what causes the steering to be heavier etc?

Wouldn't this be as simple as finding the corect wire (hicus ecu loom) and roughting it to 12v or ground or what ever it requires to run the steering lighter?

Surely this prob can be rectified?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...