Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

here is a couple of pics that you can sort out to show us how to do the HICAS removal is done/fitted,

cheers garry.

-pete

(p.s sorry for the 2mb of pics (for the people on dial-up) i'm drunk and cbf shrinkin the pics, l8r.)

post-12023-1140607188.jpg

post-12023-1140607230.jpg

post-12023-1140607356.jpg

post-12023-1140607396.jpg

From yet ANOTHER HICAS thread.................

I have marked up the HICAS schematic;

The Blue dot is the power steering cooler

The Red dots should be joined together, this bypasses the HICAS solenoids completely.

HICAS_Schematic_Bypass1.jpg

No cutting of pipes required, around those locations you will find the steel pipework has clamped rubber hose sections, just remove the (short) hoses and substitute them with the new (longer) piece of joining hose. If you are not removing the rest of the HICAs system, then block off the (no longer used) hoses to keep the crap out. There will be power steeing fluid trapped in the hoses, so make sure the capping is liquid proof.

:( cheers :D

OK.....

i have a picture of the HICAS solenoid i hope the picture can make sense for me and all the other HICAS frenzie removalist out there..

after you join them you can freely remove the whole HICAS system?? (aslong as you have a lock bar of course)

what do you think Sydneykid?

post-12023-1140862108.jpg

post-12023-1140862143.jpg

OK.....

i have a picture of the HICAS solenoid i hope the picture can make sense for me and all the other HICAS frenzie removalist out there..

after you join them you can freely remove the whole HICAS system?? (aslong as you have a lock bar of course)

what do you think Sydneykid?

Join the hoses you marked in red and the rear stage of the pump will just feed throught the cooler.

The rest of the hicas system can be removed.

If you remove the ECU the dash light will stay off too.

It wont be high pressure after you remove the hicas solenoid though, just more flow.

Join the hoses you marked in red and the rear stage of the pump will just feed throught the cooler.

The rest of the hicas system can be removed.

If you remove the ECU the dash light will stay off too.

It wont be high pressure after you remove the hicas solenoid though, just more flow.

sweet thanxs champ,

where will i find the HICAS ECU?

If you remove the HICAS ECU, do you lose the speed sensitive power steering? Cause when the speed sensor wire to my HICAS ECU was cut my steering was in heavy mode all the time.

HICAS ECU is under the parcel shelf in the boot. Steering at very low speed was heavy with the lock bar installed and the ECU still connected. Remove ECU and steering still heavy at < 20kmh but dash light goes out.

As noted in the many pages of my tutorial, extra castor will make the low speed heaviness almost impossible to detect and improve turn in response.

Hmmm so...even with fitment of the lock bars and the HICAS Pump hoses re-rooted etc everyone who does this mod still has the heavy steering all the time ?

I had an 'off' at a racetrack a few months back, since then my HICAS light has been on and steering has gone heavy 24/7. I would really like to get rid of the heavy steering and thought the Lock bar etc would be the go, but not if it dont fix the heavy steering :woot: ......

Hmmm so...even with fitment of the lock bars and the HICAS Pump hoses re-rooted etc everyone who does this mod still has the heavy steering all the time ?

I had an 'off' at a racetrack a few months back, since then my HICAS light has been on and steering has gone heavy 24/7. I would really like to get rid of the heavy steering and thought the Lock bar etc would be the go, but not if it dont fix the heavy steering :woot: ......

Who said all the time? See my post. Steering is only heavy(er) < 20kmh. All other times its no different. Event with it heavy(er), I dont care as it only marginally heavier anyway.

If you have heavy steering 24/7, best be getting that checked out, cant see a lock bar and re-route fixing anything there.

  • 3 weeks later...

ok one more time for the dummies, i'm guessing those pics were from a gts-t

basically for a 32 gtr, if you connect the high pressure hose join points directly under the sway bar on the drivers side with low pressure hose all will be good, also joining the new hose to the in and out points of where the steering rack used to be is good also

just making sure

ok one more time for the dummies, i'm guessing those pics were from a gts-t

basically for a 32 gtr, if you connect the high pressure hose join points directly under the sway bar on the drivers side with low pressure hose all will be good, also joining the new hose to the in and out points of where the steering rack used to be is good also

just making sure

They are from a R32 RB20DET GTS-4, But i have been informed that the GTS-t, GTS-4 & GTR have all the same HICAS setup :D.

R33, R34 Are diffrent because they are electronic. :P

Edited by meep
Not all R32 hydraulic systems are the same.

GTS-T has a shared resivour system. GTS-4 and GTR have a remote resovior system.

Please delete this post, its is WRONG and people will read it and believe it.

The power steering (inc HICAS) reservoir is in the engine bay, on the LHS inner guard just behind the airbox.

The ATTESA reservoir is located in the boot, in the RHS inner guard.

They are in no way joined, shared or common. R32GTST, R32GTS4 and R32GTR power steering systems (inc HICAS) are the same.

:P cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid

OK guys people are asking about the heavy stearing when the hicus and hicus ec is removed.

Does anyone know what causes the steering to be heavier etc?

Wouldn't this be as simple as finding the corect wire (hicus ecu loom) and roughting it to 12v or ground or what ever it requires to run the steering lighter?

Surely this prob can be rectified?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...