Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

i finally took my hicas out last weekend, took all the hosing, and units out and plumbed the hose back to the breater hose in the front where the 4ws actuator was, works like a dream, just have to take the hicas bulb out of the dash now...

I'm pretty keen to do this, just one question though. Is it better to lock the back up with a lock bar, or with the washers (in weight saving, and strength). I'm guessing that the washers will be fine, just wanted to double check though.

I found a HICAS ECU pinout, and wire 20 is the warning lamp, so if you cut that, it should save pulling the dash out.

Edited by sav man
  • 3 weeks later...
I'm pretty keen to do this, just one question though. Is it better to lock the back up with a lock bar, or with the washers (in weight saving, and strength). I'm guessing that the washers will be fine, just wanted to double check though.

I found a HICAS ECU pinout, and wire 20 is the warning lamp, so if you cut that, it should save pulling the dash out.

Any chance you could share that pinout?

I really wouldn't mind having a good look at that.

  • 2 weeks later...
OK.....

i have a picture of the HICAS solenoid i hope the picture can make sense for me and all the other HICAS frenzie removalist out there..

http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1140862108.jpg

Join the hoses you marked in red and the rear stage of the pump will just feed throught the cooler.

I am confused. My lines have small hose for hose #1 , and large hose for hose #2 ....how are you supposed to join them with a simple 150mm long hose? I must have the wrong line, but I have followed the directions right as far as I know? It looks to me that #2 is high pressure...there is no-where to attach a normal rubber hose without making a fitting ?

If it is the right one, I have no idea how I am supposed to get the hose off there with the metal clamps.

The top of my engine bay looks like the picture posted by meep.

Picture1 - http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1140862108.jpg

The underside looks like this

Picture 2

http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/hicas.jpg

I could disconnet it under the car, then run a longer hose up, and use a fitting at the bottom...but this doesn't seem right based on what SydneyKid is saying?

I am worried I am about to rip out the wrong hose. either that or the wrong place, cause i can't see it being a 10 minute job like SK made said

Is the line in red the right place to put the link?

Picture 3

http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/hicas1.jpg

post-15054-1148264202.jpg

post-15054-1148264216.jpg

post-15054-1148264225.jpg

Edited by eXc
I am confused. My lines have small hose for hose #1 , and large hose for hose #2 ....how are you supposed to join them with a simple 150mm long hose? I must have the wrong line, but I have followed the directions right as far as I know? It looks to me that #2 is high pressure...there is no-where to attach a normal rubber hose without making a fitting ?

If it is the right one, I have no idea how I am supposed to get the hose off there with the metal clamps.

The top of my engine bay looks like the picture posted by meep.

Picture1 - http://image-cache.skylinesaustralia.com/f...-1140862108.jpg

The underside looks like this

Picture 2

http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/hicas.jpg

I could disconnet it under the car, then run a longer hose up, and use a fitting at the bottom...but this doesn't seem right based on what SydneyKid is saying?

I am worried I am about to rip out the wrong hose. either that or the wrong place, cause i can't see it being a 10 minute job like SK made said

Is the line in red the right place to put the link?

Picture 3

http://home.kooee.com.au/exup250/hicas1.jpg

Let’s get the terminology right first then move onto what to do.;

1. High pressure hoses DO NOT HAVE CLAMPS, they have compression fittings. So any hose with a compression fitting on it is NOT low pressure.

2. Low pressure hoses HAVE CLAMPS.

3. What you are doing is joining 2 low pressure pieces of (standard) pipework with a piece of (aftermarket) rubber hose that has a clamp at each end to hold the (aftermarket) hose onto the (standard) pipework.

4. The fluid supply and return to the power steering cooler is LOW PRESSURE, so it has clamps.

5. Follow the power steering cooler (standard) pipework and (standard) hoses and note where the (standard) pipework joins to the (standard) rubber hoses. Note that there is both a supply from and a return to the power steering cooler, the return is LOW PRESSURE.

6. Go to the power steering reservoir and follow the (standard) pipework for the return of the fluid from the rear solenoids. The standard pipework goes under the engine, clipped to the subframe.

7. Join the output of the power steering cooler (standard) pipework to the (standard) pipework where it pokes up from the subframe. It needs around 100 to 150 mm piece of aftermarket rubber hose and 2 clamps.

Sorry I can not put up a picture, so please don’t ask.. My own R32GTS does not have the pipework in it at the moment as I am changing to a larger power steering cooler.

Hopefully that is of some help.

:thumbsup: Cheers :wave:

Edited by Sydneykid
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...