Jump to content
SAU Community

Gb: R33 Gts-t And Gtr And R34 Gtt Radiator Guides


Recommended Posts

JimX Funnily enough I have an R33 GTR guide in my office.

I over ordered when somebody cancelled!

I'll take it! How much is it including freight to Sydney? Is it adonized at all? If so what colour? If not, would it be possible to get adonized before sending? If so then at what cost? Have I asked too many questions yet? How about now? Do you hate me yet? How about now?

Sorry, got a little carried away there. PM me your bank details and I'll DD you the cash whether or not it's adonized (although if it's already adonized in hot pink, I may have to re-think the purchase)

  • Replies 520
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Jet Dat

Yeah I can make you one, no probs.

thanks heaps mate..i will definately take a r33 GTS-t SII off your hands :wave:

pm me the payment details, i will dd or i can pay on pick up or whatever you like...

is it still possible to get one for a sI r33 bass junky??

ill answer for pete...chances are you'll get 1 mate...as there'll be plenty of them comin back to pete from the guys with series 2's

Hey guys.

Here are the Anoised guides for your viewing pleasure.

I think that next time all guides wil be anodised because the finish is just soooo much better.

BASS OUT

Im lovin the anodised.Got teh hungrys. :D

post-6399-1147743126.jpg

hey bass got it today looks great! one problem... my bonnet wont shut properly. it will lock half way but wont fully push down lock in. ive got a cf bonnet. i cant see anywhere where it is rubbing. anyone had a similar problem?

Freeman.

The reason it wont close is because the CF bonnet will have the tounge that slots into the latch at the bottom attached to the bonnet with a pair of screws that aren't on the normal bonnet. Those two screws are hitting the guide.

Happened when GTTR34 got a CF bonnet. We have to drill two big holes in the guide to make it fit.

Thats what you'll have to do. And by big, I mean hole saw size.

Get a black texta, mark the bottom of the screws, maybe use grease or oil, or vasoline or something. Then lower the bonnet down.

Lift the bonnet, and you'll see where the screws hit the guide.

get masking tape, and cover the section of the guide where the mark is with masking tape (remove the oil or whatever first of course). The tape should be about 100mm square.

Put the oil or grease back on the screws.

Close bonnet.

When you then see the marks on the tape you know where to hole saw.

The masking tape is there so you scratch the guide less.

Get appropriately sized hole saw.

Cut holes.

Reaffix guide.

Bob is your mothers brother.

:)

okay let me write this down.

Wolverine, Dezz, Azn, lordsnipe all need Series II R33 Guides.

Just Boost it wants one of the Series I R33 Guides.

Wolverine and Just Boost It.

You guys are in the same state and I think really close to each other (only 3 postcode numbers apart) so maybe Wolverine you could give yours to Just Boost It?

Who else has series II that I don't know about or havent mentioned??

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...