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Pics Hks 2835 Install


gtst25
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just out of curiosity who else makes a similar kit to this? trust with TD-05??

Trust Td06-20g with 10cm rear housing would be about the same but then you need gate and manifold.

Also the td06 is plain bearing, oil cooled only, while the hks kit is ball bearing (think) water and oil cooled. also its newer which means new tech whichs should also mean less lag (hks says the GT pro s, is power and responds)

Cheers Michael :P

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thanks for the map

look forward to the other also...

Does look similar... Timing is an issue im trying to deal with atm...

Will be going to mercury in the new year to get it sorted...

Edited by Col-GTSX
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If you print this off and goto your ignition map - maybe just write down the differences?

Also had trouble uploading straight from excell so had to print off and scan onto a photo program.

I think I've got a boost leak so am going to make up a couple of bits of pipe - one with a blanked off end and the other with a valve fitting so we can do a pressure test - it really feels like I've got a boost leak.

AFAIK you can buy the dump separately. greenline are a better bet for a reply if you have a query.

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i dont think this dump is available separately, it is specific to the 2835 turbo/kit. is it not?

that is correct :P

HKS make dump pipes for Stock R20/25 Turbo Flange, they also sell a GT dump pipe but that is only for EVO's and Sr no rb (and its still a stock setup dump pipe just comes with a hks front pipe)

If you think im wrong check the HKS website under extenstion

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the car dynoed on a different dyno yesterday afternoon - no changes just a modern dyno dynamics dyno in shootout mode.

The 341.9 horsepower - in kw is 255rwkw - sounds much better than the 275 rwhp figure from the other dyno.

Interestingly the AFR's were reading differently between the units - the original tune was done with a motec and the tuner was tuning to afr's around 12.8 - 13.1 which I thought was lean - yesterday with the autronic lambda unit it was reading rich at 10.9 - 11.3 at full load.

We tried pulling a bit of fuel out but it lost power, then tried putting 1 degree of timing in - too much knock, then tried pulling out a degree of timing out and lost 20 hp.

The motec unit must read lean as at cruise with the o2 sensor switched on it was reading about 15.8, whereas the Autronic was reading 14.7 which is about right.

We didn't muck around with it - I just wanted to do a few power runs to get a dyno readout from a different dyno.

10 kw less thasn you sly 33 - I don't have a catch can though and have the stock airbox with k&n flat panel filter.

Cheers!

post-12959-1134769109.jpg

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would one of these hks 2835 pro's be to big for an rb20, would i see full boost by 4000-4500 rpm??

I don't think the unit is too big for a rb20. Physically it's not much bigger than the stock rb25 unit - probably similar to a gcg hi flow. You should see full boost by 4000. I can get 18 psi at 3000 - when I have access to a scanner in a few days I'll post up the data sheet from the dyno dynamics dyno - the power run was from 2500 rpm to 7000 and at 2500 it had about 16 psi. The print out shows intake temp, boost, speed and AFR's from memory.

I haven't been in any other rb25's with turbo upgrades but I can say the car goes seriously fast now - you can overtake in fifth no worries, 4th is quick and 3rd you have to be thinking quick and hang on!

Cheers

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Yes it's done in silver. We made up the steel cover plates so they wouldn't coat the inside of the housing BUT they pulled the covers off and did the housing inside and out...?

Had the cat off the other day and noticed some tiny specs of the coating in it (smaller than a grain of sand) - the outside of the housing is fine though.

Just were a bit worried of what affect the bits of coating would have on the exhaust wheel but I guess we'll find out eh? Really hope it just gets blown out.

The coating cost about 70 dollars but if they are going to do the inside make sure they are going to do it in the more expensive black coating. This stuff comes apart at 750 degrees and you will most likely see 800.

We've been told it's basically impossible to get the stuff off once applied - even when sandblasting it just bounces off.

Cheers

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Yes it's done in silver. We made up the steel cover plates so they wouldn't coat the inside of the housing BUT they pulled the covers off and did the housing inside and out...?

Had the cat off the other day and noticed some tiny specs of the coating in it (smaller than a grain of sand) - the outside of the housing is fine though.

Just were a bit worried of what affect the bits of coating would have on the exhaust wheel but I guess we'll find out eh? Really hope it just gets blown out.

The coating cost about 70 dollars but if they are going to do the inside make sure they are going to do it in the more expensive black coating. This stuff comes apart at 750 degrees and you will most likely see 800.

We've been told it's basically impossible to get the stuff off once applied - even when sandblasting it just bounces off.

Cheers

cool, thats not too expensive then.

Do you think there will be any increased boost response due to more heat being retained? or is it just to insulate the engine bay from getting too hot?

Cheers.

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