Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Driveline Strenght


Recommended Posts

Theres no defined point - Gearbox especially

It will depend on how its been driven, condition/age, and power delivery.

well i notice you have a lot of power. have you had to upgrade/ replace any driveline parts?

its regarding a street gtr with approx 600-650hp at the fly

occasionally seeing the strip and track

Edited by druzilla32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

604awkw and I'm still using stock diffs.

Gearbox is a matter of how you drive it like everyone else has said. 3rd will be the first to go once you get decent power but I managed to get 446rwkw in mine before I swapped to the OS gearset.

Stripped the stock gearbox down and it was still in perfect condition.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I broke a gearbox ~5 days after having my car back on road with a base tune (440rwhp) - but the box was in fairly poor condition to start.

I'd suggest if you're at the point of being serious about track/strip performance you'd want an aftermarket gearset, straight cut or otherwise.

Diffs have been ok so far as with shafts, but I don't exactly give it a hard time

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can blow one with stock power if you work at it. some nice flat shifting into second, and into 4th would be a good way to ensure that the synchros wear out in a matter of days, which will then lead to some nice fractured gears as you bang it into 4th and let out the clutch at 7000 odd rpm. if you treat it more nicely (ie no flat shifting) and use it the way a synchro box is meant to be used then it will be fine for a long time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most twin and tripple plate clutches for gtr's are solid centre. I managed to get a sprung centre nismo twin plate for mine but have still broken 2 gearboxes. 1st box blew third gear and the second box broke second gear under acceleration in gear. This was with 520rwhp on first box and 608rwhp on the second box. New box has 627rwhp to cope with and i dont think its gonna last very long, Maybe a couple weeks. Time for OS Gearset.

Edited by R32-GTS
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone know how much weaker the R32 GTS4 gearbox and Diffs are, what power can a GTS4 handle?

I have *heard* 300kw at the wheels. As has been said though, its how you treat it.

the gts4 has different ratios to a gtr, including a different final drive. Well, according to the specs anyway.

EDIT:: oops, wrong specs

EDIT2: As has been pointed out below, r32 gts-4 is different. Perhaps I should widen my perspective to include other models... Perhaps not.

Edited by ebola
Link to comment
Share on other sites

GTS-4 and GTR gearboxes are identical, except that the R32 GTS-4's (with the RB20DET) used different ratios. The R33 boxes and diffs are identical ratios.

But driveline strength also must include the clutch and half shafts. The GTS-4 is considerably less than the GTR in both clutch capacity and rear half shaft diameter. It also uses four stud wheels.

If you get an R33 GTS-4 and put a GTR clutch in it, and upgrade the wheel hubs and half shafts, it will be identical to a GTR in both strength and ratios.

But an R32 GTS-4 will have different ratios, but could be made just as strong with the same clutch and driveshaft changes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

GTS-4 and GTR gearboxes are identical, except that the R32 GTS-4's (with the RB20DET) used different ratios. The R33 boxes and diffs are identical ratios.

But driveline strength also must include the clutch and half shafts. The GTS-4 is considerably less than the GTR in both clutch capacity and rear half shaft diameter. It also uses four stud wheels.

If you get an R33 GTS-4 and put a GTR clutch in it, and upgrade the wheel hubs and half shafts, it will be identical to a GTR in both strength and ratios.

But an R32 GTS-4 will have different ratios, but could be made just as strong with the same clutch and driveshaft changes.

Have tou had the GTR and GTS4 boxes in pieces? Are the gear and sahft sizes the same ( apart from ratio).

Are you sure all R32 GTS4 turbos came with 4 stud wheels??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sky30, I have not personally compared the two gearboxes side by side fully dismantled, but know someone that has. There is one bearing with a different Nissan part number, not sure which, but both bearings are physically interchangeable and probably make no real practical difference. It is the sort of production change that car makers sometimes make during a production run.

The 4WD gearboxes are essentially otherwise identical in all respects, and used in both GTR and GTS-4. Gears, casing, shafts, selectors, seals, transfer case, everything are absolutely identical.

Diffs are the same too. R160 in the front and R200 in the rear all are 4.11 ratio except the R32 which has 4.32 diffs. The rear LSD can be viscous, multi-plate, or electronic, depending on what was ordered. Some GTS-4s even have the electronic diff usually only seen in the V spec GTR, though that is extremely rare.

The R34 GTR with the six speed Getrag has different gear ratios and diff ratios again, (3.54, I think ?). The front diff is an R180.

Edited by Warpspeed
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Opened up the cluster to inspect the gauge itself for signs of damage and it looks good. Got curious since that needle doesn't go back to a "neutral" position by itself (it stays in the same position when ignition is off. so I manually moved it to 1/2. Connected it back, turned on the ignition and the needle started moving up! Not sure what's up with that but before that the needle was way down below empty like fully south west. There's always a chance that the needle moved slightly the first time I tried and I didn't notice because of how slowly it moves and how far it was from the markings. I don't know if the current needle position is accurate so I'll fill it up and see where that brings it. I guess I'll try to adjust it manually if it doesn't get to F. Looks like the needle position is relative and not absolute? Thanks all for your help and patience!
    • You're confusing two different responders and more than one issue. The stock Neo ECU boost sensor is used by the ECU for protection purposes. It is essentially only an overboost sensor. It is not used for determining engine load for fuelling or ignition purposes. That task falls solely to the AFM. Any aftermarket ECU that either has an onboard MAP sensor or a plug in one, will use the MAP sensor as the primary load sensor. Or I should perhaps say "can", rather than "will", because some of them have the option of using other primary load sensors. That MAP sensor is not for the same function as the stock Neo boost sensor. The reason I recommended against a plug and play ECU is that they are intended to run a particular engine and usually in the car that the particular engine came in. So, if you have a transplanted engine in a different car, with some parts of the original missing (such as the boost sensor, for example) and therefore likely non-standardness of the loom and its insertion into the car's loom, then it is very likely that you will run into the same problems with needing to fix up wiring to make it work that you would with the stock ECU. And, if doing so for the stock ECU is enough of an obstacle that you start considering a standalone plugin as a solution, it should become clear that the plugin is quite possibly not the solution you'd hope it to be. It would just lead to more of the same type of problem solving work to get it going. In the above paragraph and in my earlier post, the lack of the boost sensor is not critical. It was just used as an example of something that we knew you did not have right, such that the stock ECU would not work. I took that as an indicator of a reasonable probability that there were other related problems hiding there.
    • I can think of two places in my city of <1.5million population that specialise in automotive instrument repairs.Unless you're out in the wilds of Quebec, you have 3 major Canadian and 3 major US cities within the same distance as the single nearest city to mine. Surely there is somewhere you could send it.
    • I never cared for twins but whenever these conversations came up, I always presumed the higher number represented a larger turbo. Learn something new everyday. 
    • Interesting, I've never seen a failure like that before but with the age of these cars and the general questionable-ness of all kinds of parts these days you can't rule anything out I suppose. Boost leak testing the boost control system would've revealed this though.
×
×
  • Create New...