Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is quite common for people to change the oil as well as the filter after 20 minutes or so of first running. This is not an opinion I agree with.

The filter change is quite logical, there is always the chance of some machinings being left from the build and they can block the oil filter which them is bypassed ie; no filtering. So it's a good idea with sound supporting logic.

However I can't see the logic in changing the oil. There are 3 reasons why you change oil;

1. It's gets dirty from cleaning the engine (the detergent part of the oil mixture). But a brand new engine isn't dirty to start with, it might have some left over machinings, but it isn't dirty. So the oil is not going to need changing for that reason.

2. The oil picks up contaminents from the combustion process. But 20 minutes of fast idling isn't going to contaminate the oil to any noticeable extent. So the oil is not going to need changing for that reason.

3. The lubricating capability of the oil is smashed out of it by high rpm, heavy combustion pressures, many heat cycles and a breakdown of its molecular structure due to the passage time. But 20 minutes of fast idling isn't going to damage the oil in that fashion. So the oil is not going to need changing for that reason.

I have heard guys say they change the oil because it might be contaminated by leaks (water or fuel) from a faulty assembly process. That's not a reason for blindly changing the oil, it may in fact cover up the problem. When I remove the oil filter I always cut it open and have a look at the contents. The oil floats on any coolant and fuel smells, so it is very easy to spot. If I detect a possible problem, I fix that problem, then change the oil. Simplistically changing the oil achieves nothing.

So I see no logical reason to change something that doesn't need changing.

:( cheers :)

  • Replies 315
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

all the nissan filters i've used said made in japan.

i always used to use genuine nissan filters, but now use nismo (veruspeed), Trust, Sard and Power Enterprise. Mainly because i get them fairly cheap when i'm in japan and they look wanky on my remote filter mount.

if i didnt have access to those japanese brands cheaply i would stick with the nissan filters.

It is quite common for people to change the oil as well as the filter after 20 minutes or so of first running. This is not an opinion I agree with.

The filter change is quite logical, there is always the chance of some machinings being left from the build and they can block the oil filter which them is bypassed ie; no filtering. So it's a good idea with sound supporting logic.

However I can't see the logic in changing the oil. There are 3 reasons why you change oil;

1. It's gets dirty from cleaning the engine (the detergent part of the oil mixture). But a brand new engine isn't dirty to start with, it might have some left over machinings, but it isn't dirty. So the oil is not going to need changing for that reason.

2. The oil picks up contaminents from the combustion process. But 20 minutes of fast idling isn't going to contaminate the oil to any noticeable extent. So the oil is not going to need changing for that reason.

3. The lubricating capability of the oil is smashed out of it by high rpm, heavy combustion pressures, many heat cycles and a breakdown of its molecular structure due to the passage time. But 20 minutes of fast idling isn't going to damage the oil in that fashion. So the oil is not going to need changing for that reason.

I have heard guys say they change the oil because it might be contaminated by leaks (water or fuel) from a faulty assembly process. That's not a reason for blindly changing the oil, it may in fact cover up the problem. When I remove the oil filter I always cut it open and have a look at the contents. The oil floats on any coolant and fuel smells, so it is very easy to spot. If I detect a possible problem, I fix that problem, then change the oil. Simplistically changing the oil achieves nothing.

So I see no logical reason to change something that doesn't need changing.

:happy: cheers :P

One reason for changing the oil after a few kays I guess is too remove any traces of friction modifiers in the oil from any assembly lubes used.

More details please

:happy: cheers :P

i can answer this one without even knowing the exact case i reckon.

incorrectly sized, or poorly made aftermarket filter was used. it fell off. engine rapidly pumped it's oil out. motor failed. bearing damage. possibly more damage if bearing damage and lack of oil pressure alarms bells not heeded. heard it many times. it's a bitch.

One reason for changing the oil after a few kays I guess is too remove any traces of friction modifiers in the oil from any assembly lubes used.

That's a point, we only use the runnng in oil (Castrol GTX) as the assembly lubricant in an RB engine. But that's not always the case with other engines, for example, on push rod V8's it is not uncommon for the camshaft manufacturer to supply some assembly lubricant.

:happy: cheers :P

i can answer this one without even knowing the exact case i reckon.

incorrectly sized, or poorly made aftermarket filter was used. it fell off. engine rapidly pumped it's oil out. motor failed. bearing damage. possibly more damage if bearing damage and lack of oil pressure alarms bells not heeded. heard it many times. it's a bitch.

If it was bad enough to fall off, surely you would notice it during the fitting process. Or it would leak/weap before it fell off and you would notice that. The problem with coming from a race environment, we would never fit an oil filter without inspecting it comparing it to the one being replaced and then lock wiring it so it can't come loose. It's just one of those things that is always done.

On an RB, the oil pressure sensor is at the oil filter, any leak and the dash light is on instantly. I have seen a Mitsubishi genuine oil filter packed in the wrong box, fit that to the engine and you would be in deep doodoo. Fortunately it was noticed at the time of fitting. So going OEM doesn't always guarantee a perfect result every time either.

:P cheers :P

Guest Mashrock
More details please

:P cheers :P

smaller sized filter

had about 500-1000 on clock since changed

the one morning it decided to spin off. and in a matter of seconds, without notice

oil drained from motor and didnt take long for him to cease up..

and then begun my gti-r saga.

Not to hassle you guys but can we get back to topic for a second...

Whats going on with the tune???

Has it finally hit the dyno???

Im like sitting on the edge of my seat every night waiting....

I assume that there is either a hold up with the ecu wiring or you are too busy driving it round everywhere...

Not to hassle you guys but can we get back to topic for a second...

Whats going on with the tune???

Has it finally hit the dyno???

Im like sitting on the edge of my seat every night waiting....

I assume that there is either a hold up with the ecu wiring or you are too busy driving it round everywhere...

hey mate well lets just say a few little problems with the wiring, and it will be running very very soon, early next week i hope :(

Hey mate, just a quick few things in my opinion:

I have a 260RS with a T04z turbo as well. One of the biggest things is place additional heat shielding down the passenger side suspension tower. I have the one that came in the kit (goes from the suspension tower to the firewall. I had to place more along the tower.) If you have any wire there, it will melt. Also run it by your ABS pump. Even if there is no wire by the susp tower, run the shielding anyway. The heat from the turbo will burn the paint over time.

One 1/4 mile run and you won't be able to touch the tower it will be that hot. Also after a medium highway drive you get the same heat in/on the tower.

Change your wastgate lines to braided, and put heat tubing over it, as well as the oil feed line as it will be damn close to the extractor manifold.

When I ran my engine in, I used mineral oil for 5000km, changing every 1000km, then use Castrol 10W60, changing every 2500km with Ryco filter.

Nice job though. Seriously impressed.

Hey mate, just a quick few things in my opinion:

I have a 260RS with a T04z turbo as well. One of the biggest things is place additional heat shielding down the passenger side suspension tower. I have the one that came in the kit (goes from the suspension tower to the firewall. I had to place more along the tower.) If you have any wire there, it will melt. Also run it by your ABS pump. Even if there is no wire by the susp tower, run the shielding anyway. The heat from the turbo will burn the paint over time.

One 1/4 mile run and you won't be able to touch the tower it will be that hot. Also after a medium highway drive you get the same heat in/on the tower.

Change your wastgate lines to braided, and put heat tubing over it, as well as the oil feed line as it will be damn close to the extractor manifold.

When I ran my engine in, I used mineral oil for 5000km, changing every 1000km, then use Castrol 10W60, changing every 2500km with Ryco filter.

Nice job though. Seriously impressed.

Agreed, it NEEDS a proper thermal blanket on the turbine houing AND aditional heat shiledling for the manifold, wastegate and downpipe. On track days that set up WILL melt all sorts of stuff, guaranteed, and probably in hard toad usage, too. Be glad it's not a rotary turbo, they are a nightmare to heat shiled...:P

hey guys well finally i dont have to dribble shit and say its nearly running, cause today it got tuned and revlimit of 4k rpm for the run in, and she runs absolutely sweet as, sounds real lumpy, and i cant wait to put some more boost into it.

just got to pull the gearbox out soon as its whinning its head off and gotta check whats the problem. besides that no trouble at all.

made a whopping 130rwhp at just under 4k rpm, and around 5psi of boost at the same rpm, so its gonna haul awesome without much lag :) starts making boost at just over 2k rpm

good times ahead for a change :P

thanks alot to everyone who has helped and especially sydneykid answering my pm's every second day almost with detailed informative replies.

cheers again :happy:

Brad

hey guys well finally i dont have to dribble shit and say its nearly running, cause today it got tuned and revlimit of 4k rpm for the run in, and she runs absolutely sweet as, sounds real lumpy, and i cant wait to put some more boost into it.

just got to pull the gearbox out soon as its whinning its head off and gotta check whats the problem. besides that no trouble at all.

made a whopping 130rwhp at just under 4k rpm, and around 5psi of boost at the same rpm, so its gonna haul awesome without much lag :( starts making boost at just over 2k rpm

good times ahead for a change :O

thanks alot to everyone who has helped and especially sydneykid answering my pm's every second day almost with detailed informative replies.

cheers again :D

Brad

Great to hear Brad,

Have fun running it in and dont baby it, it needs good varying load to bed in properly but i'm sure you guys got that cover if the rest of the car is anything to good by great job. When do you plan to up the limiter and tune and are you still using the dyno we talked about?

pete

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...