Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is quite common for people to change the oil as well as the filter after 20 minutes or so of first running. This is not an opinion I agree with.

The filter change is quite logical, there is always the chance of some machinings being left from the build and they can block the oil filter which them is bypassed ie; no filtering. So it's a good idea with sound supporting logic.

However I can't see the logic in changing the oil. There are 3 reasons why you change oil;

1. It's gets dirty from cleaning the engine (the detergent part of the oil mixture). But a brand new engine isn't dirty to start with, it might have some left over machinings, but it isn't dirty. So the oil is not going to need changing for that reason.

2. The oil picks up contaminents from the combustion process. But 20 minutes of fast idling isn't going to contaminate the oil to any noticeable extent. So the oil is not going to need changing for that reason.

3. The lubricating capability of the oil is smashed out of it by high rpm, heavy combustion pressures, many heat cycles and a breakdown of its molecular structure due to the passage time. But 20 minutes of fast idling isn't going to damage the oil in that fashion. So the oil is not going to need changing for that reason.

I have heard guys say they change the oil because it might be contaminated by leaks (water or fuel) from a faulty assembly process. That's not a reason for blindly changing the oil, it may in fact cover up the problem. When I remove the oil filter I always cut it open and have a look at the contents. The oil floats on any coolant and fuel smells, so it is very easy to spot. If I detect a possible problem, I fix that problem, then change the oil. Simplistically changing the oil achieves nothing.

So I see no logical reason to change something that doesn't need changing.

:( cheers :)

  • Replies 315
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

all the nissan filters i've used said made in japan.

i always used to use genuine nissan filters, but now use nismo (veruspeed), Trust, Sard and Power Enterprise. Mainly because i get them fairly cheap when i'm in japan and they look wanky on my remote filter mount.

if i didnt have access to those japanese brands cheaply i would stick with the nissan filters.

It is quite common for people to change the oil as well as the filter after 20 minutes or so of first running. This is not an opinion I agree with.

The filter change is quite logical, there is always the chance of some machinings being left from the build and they can block the oil filter which them is bypassed ie; no filtering. So it's a good idea with sound supporting logic.

However I can't see the logic in changing the oil. There are 3 reasons why you change oil;

1. It's gets dirty from cleaning the engine (the detergent part of the oil mixture). But a brand new engine isn't dirty to start with, it might have some left over machinings, but it isn't dirty. So the oil is not going to need changing for that reason.

2. The oil picks up contaminents from the combustion process. But 20 minutes of fast idling isn't going to contaminate the oil to any noticeable extent. So the oil is not going to need changing for that reason.

3. The lubricating capability of the oil is smashed out of it by high rpm, heavy combustion pressures, many heat cycles and a breakdown of its molecular structure due to the passage time. But 20 minutes of fast idling isn't going to damage the oil in that fashion. So the oil is not going to need changing for that reason.

I have heard guys say they change the oil because it might be contaminated by leaks (water or fuel) from a faulty assembly process. That's not a reason for blindly changing the oil, it may in fact cover up the problem. When I remove the oil filter I always cut it open and have a look at the contents. The oil floats on any coolant and fuel smells, so it is very easy to spot. If I detect a possible problem, I fix that problem, then change the oil. Simplistically changing the oil achieves nothing.

So I see no logical reason to change something that doesn't need changing.

:happy: cheers :P

One reason for changing the oil after a few kays I guess is too remove any traces of friction modifiers in the oil from any assembly lubes used.

More details please

:happy: cheers :P

i can answer this one without even knowing the exact case i reckon.

incorrectly sized, or poorly made aftermarket filter was used. it fell off. engine rapidly pumped it's oil out. motor failed. bearing damage. possibly more damage if bearing damage and lack of oil pressure alarms bells not heeded. heard it many times. it's a bitch.

One reason for changing the oil after a few kays I guess is too remove any traces of friction modifiers in the oil from any assembly lubes used.

That's a point, we only use the runnng in oil (Castrol GTX) as the assembly lubricant in an RB engine. But that's not always the case with other engines, for example, on push rod V8's it is not uncommon for the camshaft manufacturer to supply some assembly lubricant.

:happy: cheers :P

i can answer this one without even knowing the exact case i reckon.

incorrectly sized, or poorly made aftermarket filter was used. it fell off. engine rapidly pumped it's oil out. motor failed. bearing damage. possibly more damage if bearing damage and lack of oil pressure alarms bells not heeded. heard it many times. it's a bitch.

If it was bad enough to fall off, surely you would notice it during the fitting process. Or it would leak/weap before it fell off and you would notice that. The problem with coming from a race environment, we would never fit an oil filter without inspecting it comparing it to the one being replaced and then lock wiring it so it can't come loose. It's just one of those things that is always done.

On an RB, the oil pressure sensor is at the oil filter, any leak and the dash light is on instantly. I have seen a Mitsubishi genuine oil filter packed in the wrong box, fit that to the engine and you would be in deep doodoo. Fortunately it was noticed at the time of fitting. So going OEM doesn't always guarantee a perfect result every time either.

:P cheers :P

Guest Mashrock
More details please

:P cheers :P

smaller sized filter

had about 500-1000 on clock since changed

the one morning it decided to spin off. and in a matter of seconds, without notice

oil drained from motor and didnt take long for him to cease up..

and then begun my gti-r saga.

Not to hassle you guys but can we get back to topic for a second...

Whats going on with the tune???

Has it finally hit the dyno???

Im like sitting on the edge of my seat every night waiting....

I assume that there is either a hold up with the ecu wiring or you are too busy driving it round everywhere...

Not to hassle you guys but can we get back to topic for a second...

Whats going on with the tune???

Has it finally hit the dyno???

Im like sitting on the edge of my seat every night waiting....

I assume that there is either a hold up with the ecu wiring or you are too busy driving it round everywhere...

hey mate well lets just say a few little problems with the wiring, and it will be running very very soon, early next week i hope :(

Hey mate, just a quick few things in my opinion:

I have a 260RS with a T04z turbo as well. One of the biggest things is place additional heat shielding down the passenger side suspension tower. I have the one that came in the kit (goes from the suspension tower to the firewall. I had to place more along the tower.) If you have any wire there, it will melt. Also run it by your ABS pump. Even if there is no wire by the susp tower, run the shielding anyway. The heat from the turbo will burn the paint over time.

One 1/4 mile run and you won't be able to touch the tower it will be that hot. Also after a medium highway drive you get the same heat in/on the tower.

Change your wastgate lines to braided, and put heat tubing over it, as well as the oil feed line as it will be damn close to the extractor manifold.

When I ran my engine in, I used mineral oil for 5000km, changing every 1000km, then use Castrol 10W60, changing every 2500km with Ryco filter.

Nice job though. Seriously impressed.

Hey mate, just a quick few things in my opinion:

I have a 260RS with a T04z turbo as well. One of the biggest things is place additional heat shielding down the passenger side suspension tower. I have the one that came in the kit (goes from the suspension tower to the firewall. I had to place more along the tower.) If you have any wire there, it will melt. Also run it by your ABS pump. Even if there is no wire by the susp tower, run the shielding anyway. The heat from the turbo will burn the paint over time.

One 1/4 mile run and you won't be able to touch the tower it will be that hot. Also after a medium highway drive you get the same heat in/on the tower.

Change your wastgate lines to braided, and put heat tubing over it, as well as the oil feed line as it will be damn close to the extractor manifold.

When I ran my engine in, I used mineral oil for 5000km, changing every 1000km, then use Castrol 10W60, changing every 2500km with Ryco filter.

Nice job though. Seriously impressed.

Agreed, it NEEDS a proper thermal blanket on the turbine houing AND aditional heat shiledling for the manifold, wastegate and downpipe. On track days that set up WILL melt all sorts of stuff, guaranteed, and probably in hard toad usage, too. Be glad it's not a rotary turbo, they are a nightmare to heat shiled...:P

hey guys well finally i dont have to dribble shit and say its nearly running, cause today it got tuned and revlimit of 4k rpm for the run in, and she runs absolutely sweet as, sounds real lumpy, and i cant wait to put some more boost into it.

just got to pull the gearbox out soon as its whinning its head off and gotta check whats the problem. besides that no trouble at all.

made a whopping 130rwhp at just under 4k rpm, and around 5psi of boost at the same rpm, so its gonna haul awesome without much lag :) starts making boost at just over 2k rpm

good times ahead for a change :P

thanks alot to everyone who has helped and especially sydneykid answering my pm's every second day almost with detailed informative replies.

cheers again :happy:

Brad

hey guys well finally i dont have to dribble shit and say its nearly running, cause today it got tuned and revlimit of 4k rpm for the run in, and she runs absolutely sweet as, sounds real lumpy, and i cant wait to put some more boost into it.

just got to pull the gearbox out soon as its whinning its head off and gotta check whats the problem. besides that no trouble at all.

made a whopping 130rwhp at just under 4k rpm, and around 5psi of boost at the same rpm, so its gonna haul awesome without much lag :( starts making boost at just over 2k rpm

good times ahead for a change :O

thanks alot to everyone who has helped and especially sydneykid answering my pm's every second day almost with detailed informative replies.

cheers again :D

Brad

Great to hear Brad,

Have fun running it in and dont baby it, it needs good varying load to bed in properly but i'm sure you guys got that cover if the rest of the car is anything to good by great job. When do you plan to up the limiter and tune and are you still using the dyno we talked about?

pete

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...