Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 315
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey guys well finally i dont have to dribble shit and say its nearly running, cause today it got tuned and revlimit of 4k rpm for the run in, and she runs absolutely sweet as, sounds real lumpy, and i cant wait to put some more boost into it.

just got to pull the gearbox out soon as its whinning its head off and gotta check whats the problem. besides that no trouble at all.

made a whopping 130rwhp at just under 4k rpm, and around 5psi of boost at the same rpm, so its gonna haul awesome without much lag :( starts making boost at just over 2k rpm

good times ahead for a change :)

thanks alot to everyone who has helped and especially sydneykid answering my pm's every second day almost with detailed informative replies.

cheers again :(

Brad

Hi Brad, as per the PM, glad to see that it runs after such a BIG rebuild. I was happy that I could be of some assistance, even via remote control. I am impressd with the 5spi at 4,000 rpm, and some boost at 2,000 rpm, that's a good sign for nice power band. With an extra 400 cc's and the same cam duration and similar sized turbo on mine, I am looking forward to comparing dyno graphs.

:dry: Cheers :O

Edited by Sydneykid
I saw you car on the Dyno yesterday at Top Racing Nice car!

Looking forward to seeing the final tune.

Ash

thanks for the replies guys, it is being tuned at Top Racing, and steve (NIB) was extremely helpful, and managed to sort out all my little problems throughout the tune and start up. most proffesional shop i've dealt with and i plan on using them again for the final tune, highly reccomended and u guys know how fussy i am with all the problems at other shops. also the autronics ecu/cdi unit/boost controller and msd coils are all going up for sale so i can buy a power fc djetro or maybe just a normal pfc, but not 100% sure which one yet. autronics is good, but no one in perth is worth using to tune it so its gotta go.

thanks again to steve and the Top Racing guys for the good work :huh:

cheers

Brad

  • 2 weeks later...
How are we doing???

I must be as keen as you are to see her on the dyno punching out some numbers....

Im like sitting on the edge of my seat...

the joys of engine building, engine out for build, engine in, engine out, and now engine back in car in 2 or so days. little bloody problems that require removal of the sump which is not fun :( but its all sorted hopefully and run in completed by the end of the easter weekend im hoping for.

then i got a 3 weeks wait minimum on my new ecu. power fc djetro so thats a pain in the arse. no power tune till i get that.

my builds the longest on record i reckon :O

' date='11 Apr 2006, 10:48 PM' post='2087635']

So have you sorted the no oil pressure issue?

Any idea why?

99.9% sure its fixed but i cant test it until i put it back in the car which is a pain :P

it was a case of me getting excited with the gasket goo stuff on the oil pump gasket and blocked the outlet of the pump hole about 90% so yerrr stupid me :D

it had oil pressure just very low compared to what it should be. ran perfect with lower pressure as i could only get upto 4k rpm, and we checked bearings again and they are perfect, and compression test shows exactly 170psi on every cylinder so no dramas in that department :no:

ive found a place to get the power fc djetro cheaper than anywhere in Perth and its also arriving in 5 workin days which is better than all the other shops 3-4 week wait.

also getting some new transfer case clutchpacks after the smoking session on the dyno from a previous workshop (yes they know who they are) they are worn down heaps. $270 for 7 new clutchpads isnt too bad.

need some splitfire coils, a boost controller (blitz sbc possibly), and its ready to run again, and then i need a Ross or ATI or OS Giken harmonic balancer for those trips over 9000rpm :)

hopefully its all finished and tuned for the auto salon and then i can chuck it in the show and dyno comp and see what figures it can make. unsure if it will be on low boost (500rwhp) or maybe ill have time for the race tune on about 25psi+ :no:

cheers

Brad

99.9% sure its fixed but i cant test it until i put it back in the car which is a pain :D

it was a case of me getting excited with the gasket goo stuff on the oil pump gasket and blocked the outlet of the pump hole about 90% so yerrr stupid me :P

You stuck goo on top of the oil pump gasket?, or didn't use a gasket at all?

if you did use a gasket, why goo it?, theres no need to add silicone to a gasket sealed surface..

i gasket gooed on top of the paper gasket, extra safety as i didnt want the pump leaking, but i went way overboard and now im paying for it with having to rip it out and take sump off.

finished assembling the transfer case tonight after putting my old stagea auto clutch pads into the gtr case as they are not worn hardly compared to the gtr original ones.

ive rebuild the diff a couple of weeks ago, now the transfer case, and the engine too, just the gearbox left (nuthin wrong with it yet, but its not brand new cond) and the whole driveline is brand new :P

this weekend ill get stuck in and sort most of it out and almost be cruising if all goes to plan :)

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey Brad how are things going full power run yet?

Brad

put everything back in and oil pressure was the same. so we have spent ages lookin and testing the oil system and after being told it was possibly bearings or an internal leak from the system, we ripped the crank out and pulled it down to a bare block again to put water through the oil system and see where its leaking. we took the crank out and put it aside everytime, and block came up fine, no problems. so we looked at the crank and found all the oil gallery plugs hadnt been installed as i never recieved them when i bought it and they are recessed in 10mm+ so i couldnt even see their were holes as the threads started way down the holes.

we have put in plugs since and oil pressure is perfect, and engine is sitting on the stand and totally back together and i am waiting for the jun plugs to put in, as i got in contact with the previous owner of the gear and he has located them and i still have to pick them up, but i might just leave it with the ones we got in as they fit perfectly anyway.

engine will be in this weekend and then i still got another 700km to run in and then the big tune.

2 rebuilds in 300km, great fun :)

they say u learn by ya mistakes, and i sure have :P

will be well worth it in the end :devil:

Edited by CruiseLiner
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...