Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would like to thank Sky30 for buying my car. It has served me well over the last three years with many good times. I hope he can have as much anjoyment and pleasure as i had with the car. I am glad to sell it to a fellow enthusiast.

hope everyone has a very merry christmas and a happy new year.

Cachya round people's it has been great. :(

R32gts4

AKA - shaun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99612-sold-my-car/
Share on other sites

hahaha, So you finally went the GTS4. :D

Awesome.. I can't wait until its running, should be much MUCH more fun.

Second gear roll on's out of corners are now going to be rather waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.

What was the GTS4 worth?

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99612-sold-my-car/#findComment-1815983
Share on other sites

hahaha, So you finally went the GTS4. :D

Awesome.. I can't wait until its running, should be much MUCH more fun.

Second gear roll on's out of corners are now going to be rather waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.

What was the GTS4 worth?

who u talking too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99612-sold-my-car/#findComment-1815994
Share on other sites

Yes I have an Rb30 in my R32 GTST as does Sky30.

Sky30's plan as he stated is to put the rb30 in the GTS4. :D

Shaun- Got the car home no worries, cant wait to get the 3.0L in there.

The only extra cost dropping the RB30 in the GTS4 is the $450 sump adaptor.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99612-sold-my-car/#findComment-1816123
Share on other sites

Yes I have an Rb30 in my R32 GTST as does Sky30.

Sky30's plan as he stated is to put the rb30 in the GTS4. :D

The only extra cost dropping the RB30 in the GTS4 is the $450 sump adaptor.

so how much is the whole job and having a RB30 is that called the RB28 stroker

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99612-sold-my-car/#findComment-1816188
Share on other sites

The RB30 is a 3ltr, the 3ltr from the R31 Skyline or VL Commodore. Not a 2.8ltr.

The 2.8ltr stroker kit is bought from japan from Jun.

Sky30 used a second hand running 270,000km's RB30, dropped it in his R32 GTST bolted on a R32 RB25DE head and off he went - Very side ways.... :D

$$ - What ever a second hand RB30e and r32 rb25de head costs, + a few gaskets and the modification of engine mounts. ~$70 if you pay some one to do it.

If you are a little mechanically minded the job can be done for rather cheap.

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99612-sold-my-car/#findComment-1816195
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...