Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I've been watching and studying for sometime but i still don't have the answer so i thought i'd ask and hopfully with enough expertise out there you can help illustrate what might be an approporiate start.

I'm importing an GTR 33 (though Imports101 in WA nissans especially R33 compliance is so easy for them ) with the titled parts (T88H 34D with Tomei 2.7 kit) I mean plus the needed support bits (oil cooler, big intercooler, 1000ccs, surge tank and multiple fuel pumps etc) probably cross mission too.

But when it gets here I'm not sure what work must be done when buying a second hand beast (by this i mean highly modified). It's supposed to be running 800-1000hp but we all know about hp figures hehe. I have already ordered a custom (JUN copied with bolstered ram shaft) plenum.

My understanding would be

1. Check stoker kit, shot peen crank?, change conrod bolts?, balance conrods, polish pistons?

2. check dump pipe for hughness, exhaust etc

3. Check T88 maybe high flow turbo?

4. what else? :starwars:

Please keep in mind budget so some sort of order of what to do would be cool, I'm juiced to get this because this time last year I almost bought a JUN 2.7 R34 but missed it.

If you wold like a look http://www.centralmotor.net/web/detail.php?num=152

So do i check everything or just some things if so what is an absolute must, to be checked what is something that can wait or isn't too important?

Darryl

PS outcome is daily drive drag/street car

1.bmp

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99766-t88h-34d-with-tomei-27-what-to-do/
Share on other sites

Congrats on the buy dude, sounds like a bit of an animal..

as for what to do, well, engine wise you shouldn't have to do anything, to get the extra stroke you need a different crank <usualy> so id peg that the motor already has a billet crack, rods and pistons, big cams, and probable a hoard of other fruit internally to support the power...

however, if your paranoid, and i know i personally would be, id be pulling the motor out, and stripping it down to check everything to make sure its in good working order, and giving it a new set of rings and bearings, depending on how long its been together for, unless you can get accurate info from the guys in japan about it, it'll save the not knowing factor...

as for everything else, personally id leave it alone, and id just look about getting it re-tuned for australian fuel, thatd be priority number one once your sure about the quality of the internals, then you will see what it can do, and if you need to touch anything to get more out of it...

Looks good, i dont like the mission your gonna have of getting it complianced tho...

It would be a good idea to rip the motor down and have a look at everything and see whats going on internally and to give it a freshen up.

Sometimes te cars are meant to be "internally" modded but when they get here and pop you find out they werent.

leave the plenum, no need to change that

High flow a T88-34D

Good son of rajab dude... You certainly dont wanna be doing that!

I'd personally be changing the turbo if you wanna have some street use.

Something like a HKS T04Z... they seem to be doing amazing things and would make a super streeter.

For more info in T04Z - use the search button as there is a great thread on it all.

No need to pull the engine.

Do a leak down test, that will tell you what sort of condition the pistons, rings, bores, valves, head gasket etc is in.

Then take an oil sample and send it for analysis, that will tell you what sort of condition the bottom end is in, bearings, crank, rods etc.

If everything tests OK, then run it up on the dyno and check the A/F ratios, knock, power etc

If everything is OK, then get on with driving it.

:starwars: cheers :)

not to spoil the mood or anything.

but there WILL be a problem complying that.

just a gues youl need these parts.

non braded brake lines

posibly brake calipers/discs

engine

wheels

seats

and pretty much anything else non standard.

just make sure you know were the raws auditers are so they can submit the paperwork when their on the otherside of the country.

sick car but MASSIVE job.

oh. the engine should be fine. :lol:

MMMmmm...yummo engine,but I'll mirror earlier comments,tho':good luck getting that beast complied! Oh,yes:

3. Check T88 maybe high flow turbo?
As you need MORE flow than a T88 provides?LOL!

Denver: R31Nismoid: Sydneykid: I know I know i just haven't imported before so I'm like what to do. Anways thanks a mill you guys for posting it helps confirm things big time.

T04GTR: The import co will compliance as I said they do R33's easy, plenty of the vanialla R33 parts nps there.

Fast GTR: it comes with PFC and commander already but thinking wolf cos nos, antilag and rotational i.

Thanks again

D

ill say, the work to strip the car to compliance condition is going to be huuuge

the interior is 100% stock apart from a torque spliter/power FC/one gauge and a remote start in the glove box.

So it'll just be the exterior and hey wish me luck and no pain please

BTW Nismoid are you familiar with how much it is to be a sponsored banner ad PM me please or Blitz if you know.

Just becasue a piece of paper says 'this is whats in the car' doesnt exactly mean everything is in there.

Strip the motor down. This is the only way you will know for sure what is in the engine. Then (and only then) you can decide how hard you want to lean on it. Your engine builder can then set the desired clearances, tolerences, compression ect based on what is ACTUALLY in the engine and what you want the car to do. It is alot cheaper than tuning the car based on what you 'think' is in the car and then having it go bang.

I would assume its a standard & prepped crank.

I thought the normal Power FC needed AFM's?

Just becasue a piece of paper says 'this is whats in the car' doesnt exactly mean everything is in there.

Strip the motor down. This is the only way you will know for sure what is in the engine. Then (and only then) you can decide how hard you want to lean on it. Your engine builder can then set the desired clearances, tolerences, compression ect based on what is ACTUALLY in the engine and what you want the car to do. It is alot cheaper than tuning the car based on what you 'think' is in the car and then having it go bang.

I would assume its a standard & prepped crank.

I thought the normal Power FC needed AFM's?

thnx purple R32 agreed

Its D jettro thats why

and hey NXTIME I don't think mine is an LM just a vspec but that looks sweet where did you find it?

Edited by skyphun

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...