MANWHORE

Hey Gary If you ever have anyone looking to high flow an r34 turbo (with the larger rear housing), but the turbo is still on their car and they want to do the swap on and off in one day, I have a blown one. I'd be willing to let them have that highflowed in exchange for a working on. They'll get the same result anyways

Depends on what needs to be done. You can't balance it

What I was getting at is that you've been on the forums for 1 year. Duncan has extensive knowledge and plenty experience. My post above got stuffed up. What I was getting at is that I have actually rebuild a transfer case and bled several of them. I was just saying that we were merely leading you through a process of diagnosis. I'm not saying that this is you, but many other people haev asked questions like um, ah, like how do I like bleed this etc. Anyways, don't worry about it. which part is leaking?

the jaycar safc will be around $100. then the tune will be like $300. SAFC only allows adjustment of fuel, not ignition. I reckon the remap for 350 is seriously a pretty good option. Fuel, ignition map changes. Removal of speed limit. you still retain all the good stock ecu stuff like cold start, consult etc.

It won't really make it 'safer' because it's not really at much of a danger as it is. If anything, the benefit is in fuel economy and performance. It will make it have more power basiaclly all over the power range. If you're going to do it though, i'd make sur ethat you do every mod you'd consider, so you don't waste money on a tune again later. e.g. fmic, full exhaust, turbo if you want, camgears, etc. Instead of an safc, take a look at the jaycar one. it is basically an safc in a cheap looking box at about 1/5 the price. Chris, I know OF a guy that can remap r33 ecus. I have nothing to do with him, he just posts up on here occassionally. I'm actually saving up for a remap myself just to see how it goes. From memory, last time he posted, it was 350$.

We're only trying to be nice and help you out with possible reasons for why it might be like that. Just like diagnosing any other problem, there is a series of steps you go through. e.g. it is quite plausible that synchros might be worn after 15 years. Also, redline does have a red shockproof oil.

Um I don't know how the attessa works. I mean, I have only apart one of them, , bleed the system a few times, but apart from that, no, I don't know hwo it works. I noticed that you joined the forum in March 2005. I believe the question is do you know how it works?

come on guys, don't like the price? makee an offer. buy it as a present for someone.

That's why I was asking you before about wwhat you thought of the performance of your diff. If I do a burnout, it will spin both wheels. although, one won't be spinning much, but it does spin. But just generally, like very quick twisty driving, the diff never locks. I doubt this is how it's meant to perform. I have a friedn with an r32 gtst with a brand new stock diff - was replaced under warranty. I'm 100% sure it's stock, because i saw the workshop open the parts, all in the nissan boxes and all. It actually feels quite tight. Obviously not clunk clunk chatter chatter as you go in a tight corner, but if you press the gas a bit more, you can feel it biting.

paul, as I said before, watching with eager eyes. Ps: 350 is a lot of money to just remove the diff. It's actually easy to remove the diff yourself. The difficult thing is changing the centre - that needs alignment. My friend got his centre changed for 150$ That switch sounds like the goods.

just clean it. I've cleaned mine like 100 times and it's still fine. kn fitler kit - like $20, or about $25 at autobarn

Good job. What is that godforsaken ugly round thing around the screen though?

5 stud conversion?

Hey Chris Provided you don't do anything too silly, like run 30 psi or something, just the standard mild mods on stock turbo won'nt destroy your car, it just won't drive much better than stock, that's all. On my car, i've done everything but the ecu, and i get big rich and retard. When that kicks in, it feels like I get pulled back. there's a big dip in power. so It doens't feel, nor is it actually very quick. I reckon either do all the mods + tune, or just leave it stockish

hahahhaa, is it going on the 31 wagon? looks more race spec wagon without them

just a tip. turbo deosn't have to be removed to get the stud out. drill the middle and use an easeout. if you're not confident, call a thread guy to do it. i did, cost me $50.

how nice of you. I wish i had a gf like you Basically, most headunits have blue lights. Also, most of the upper range ones also have ipod connection. $500 is quite a lot of money and you can basically get something pretty good for that price. Strathfield/jbhifi have the sort of okayish ones. those are the sorts of places that you can just pop up to and buy something whenever you want. You can also pick up bargains everynow and then 2nd hand, but that wouldn't make a nice present hey! If you want a good quality headunit, eclipse head units have great sound, but they look quite plain. Alpine make good sounding headunits that look nice. pioneer are also good. Then there are the other ones like kenwood, jvc etc. As a starting point, pop into your local jbhifi or strathfield just to get a feel. **They are usually girl friendly.

Baz, i've replied you via pm.

hard selecting gears isn't caused by the atf. your synchros are most likely worn. Atf will make it easier to select gears because it's a thinner viscosity.

omg, you got me caught in the trap. lol

nah, they're not the same size. Every wheel i've had had liek a slightly different size. like even if it was only out by 1mm. it's as if they dont' want you to be able to use different ones.

ok then. I just thought you might want it legal. ok I can describe what i did. Basiaclly, if you try and fit the gtr bar on, it will bolt in on the sides without the reo on. to get the reo to work, basicall, it's too tall. It's hard to describe, but imagine the middle bit is like this: ------- ------- when it should be like this: ------- ------- so basically, you ahve to take some off the bottom of it, like if you were doing a fmic install. Like when you push the bar back onto it, the gtst reo can't fit into the gtr bar.

ALso, gcg charge the full price when rebuilding a turbo that they didn't highflow themselves. e.g. they can't just mix and match some parts with others that are not theirs etc. You can't tell if the seal are leaking without testing it. BB turbos have a bit of play in them. maybe 0.5mm is ok. If you pull the shaft side to side and it touches the housing, it is probably not ok. If the housing/blades have been scraping, it is not ok.

Ok I've done a lot of research on this topic and spoken to GCG about it previously. If you want to high flow a vg30, the one you want is the ballbearing one. The ballbearing one will have an op6 rear housing. NOT the 45v rear housing (I am not talking about the inlet housing). The bolt pattern on the non ballbearing one is different. GCG said that the non non ball bearing one is no good. The rear housing cannot be used with the rb25 turbo. Also, if you wanted to rebuild the non bb, they cannot fit bb to a non bb. PS - The r34 turbo has the same large rear housing as the ballbearing vg30. I have one for sale atm with the op6 housing if your'e interested.

Brake bleeder - put on hold today. coilpack + leads - definitely sold. Everything else still avaialble.