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paulR32gtr

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Everything posted by paulR32gtr

  1. You can't replace the factory sensor, the ECU uses it heavily for fuel correction. I am guessing the sensor for your new guage is 1/8 NPT? Seeing you don't want to drill / tap, you might be best getting something like this which you plumb inline with your radiator hose. They are in different sizes so make sure the one you get is the right size for your radiator hose. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Water-Temp-Gauge-Radiator-Hose-Sensor-Adaptor-36mm-BLUE-/160562099474#vi-content
  2. Well after blowing 2 turbos in ~2,500kms it seems we are starting to get some reliability out of the car. The comp wheel on the front turbo seemed to be having problems up at higher RPM's that was not showing up on the balancing machine. This was causing the front bearing to flog out. The first one lasted a couple of thousand kms, the second one lasted the dyno and a run up in the hills, then first session, first corner at Phillip Island it let go again. Luckily it was just the bearing in the cartridge that went, the wheels / shaft / housings were all OK. So the turbo guys seem to have fixed it this time, turbo holding together. I also had a faulty radiator cap that wasn't holding any pressure - those little things that could potentially bring down an engine! Now running a slightly higher pressure cap and temps are fantastic - water peaks around 78 deg, and oil at full noise fluctuates happily between 90 and 100 with short peaks of 104/106. Rear diff housing had some hairline cracks as well and was weeping, so it was replaced with one of these Greddy covers with some increased capacity. Single large Walbro pump was switched for two smaller 255lph units in anticipation of an E85 map in the not too distant future. Only running one of the pumps at the moment until some better earthing can be sorted out to handle the second pump. So with all that in place hit Phillip Island for the weekend for the PIARC sprints. Car weighed in at ~1,606kg with a full tank, no driver. I am 93kg so lugging a fair bit around after you add a navigator and a few other odds and ends in full rally trim. Saturday practice great weather but I started to get some fuel surge at certain parts of the track turning right feeding power on, with a full tank. So I had to drive around it for a best of 1:52. My goal for the weekend being get into the 40's. So for Sunday I switched to the other pump which fixed the issue and managed to get out a 1:47.9 in the last session with consistent 48's. Still not the tidiest lap, and my gear changes were rubbish all day for but I am happy with the progress. I still reckon after an alignment, slightly higher track temps and a few more weet-bix it has another second or two in it.
  3. Yeah cracker of a weekend. PIARC sprint weekends are definitely becoming a permanent fixture on my racing calendar.
  4. Just eBay from the USA - it's imperial but not hard to get terminals that fit. Yup a regular there for a couple of weeks! There is always one thing you forget when making up stuff like that.
  5. Thanks Nik! Fittings and hose are all from Motorsport Connections - http://www.mscn.com.au, nice guys and have good stock. Yeah the dry ice works well - have done a couple of cars now and it would be a lot harder without it. I haven't replaced the positive battery cable, just changed the terminal on the end so it can bolt to the underside of the jumper post. The battery cable from the battery in the rear bolts to the same spot, as does the extra red connector from the factory terminal shown up above heat shrinked sitting behind the fuse box. I have replaced the firewall pass through being used in the pics for the jumper post that arrived below. Still need to isolate that area a bit more to avoid shorts when jumping the car.
  6. Some great commitment there at 4:19 ~190km/h into the foresty bit!
  7. Yep definitely cutting wheel / grinder as Michael said
  8. Been eyeing one of those off for a while - factory one is so heavy! Plus my brackets are rusted and useless - would change the look a bit though unpainted
  9. Located in Melbourne Ivanhoe area. R32 GTR Exhaust Full exhaust system for an R32 GTR, some parts will fit other models but selling all in one, don't have time to separate. This setup happily made ~300rwkw on the Racepace dyno. Consists of: - HKS stainless dump pipes (genuine, bought through Nengun, came in the full kit) - JustJap stainless front pipes with flex http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17138&cat=276&page=2 - Straight through test pipe - Trust stainless Power Extreme II cat back All in very good condition, could just use a bit of a clean / polish if you can be bothered. Note doesn't include factory bracket attached near test pipe. The black stuff on the muffler is just sound deadening that's fallen through when stripping the car for track, not a leak, will clean it off before pickup. Whole setup for $900 TEIN Super Street Aus Spec suspension Done probably road ~2000kms if that, engine went and car has been off the road since, not long after they went in. Upgraded TEIN springs on the front installed by TruTrack 6kg front, 4kg rear. Near new condition. These fronts are as I pulled them out of the car, they haven't been cleaned shows what sort of life they have seen. Rears are still in the car, coming out tomorrow but are in the same sort of condition. Price is $800 Photos Exhaust Suspension
  10. Gotta love having a bit of redundancy in your fuel system!
  11. Yeah same. I reckon it will with the oval rear muffler and extra center muffler, rather than single canon like the Tomei. Similar design to the one on my 34 which never has an issue. I will see how it is, if it seems a bit loud I will get an extra small muffler made up to drop in place of the test pipe in the event of an issue. Not sure ... didn't like their chances though! Will definitely do - they are quoting about 2 weeks.
  12. Haha yeah it did hurt a little but I am pretty good at justifying this stuff to myself. The CAMS tracks only have a limited number of 95db days, the rest are 75db on an angle at blah blah meters. They have a guy there with a decibel meter, and local council have even given decibel meters to the residents at Sandown. Buy a house near a race track then complain about the noise ..... hmm One of the R32's with the Tomei Ti exhaust, which I was looking at, was booted first session last time I was at PI. Costly exercise after trailer hire, fuel, accomodation, entry fees etc etc to get booted first session. You get one chance to rectify it, but what you going to do! Some of the Porsche guys were putting coke cans up their exhausts in an effort to muffle. Would rather fork out now and get an exhaust that flows well, is light, and not noisy, than pay in $ and frustration down the line. Looks to be +4db at idle and +1.6db at "proximity noise" whatever that is ... hopefully that means 75db on an angle at blah blah meters!
  13. Yeah I think I would still fasten it depending what the adhesive is like. I can't imaging anything sticking too well to the rubberised chip coat under my car. But to factory paint I reckon it would be OK as long as it is cut / shaped correctly.
  14. Ordered my exhaust this morning - going a customised Midori Silent High Power NR titanium. They are making it up so it doesn't drop down in size at the join to the cat, staying 90mm all the way. Midori are also making up a 90mm titanium test pipe. The exhaust meets with some new regulation in Japan so noise, updated Jasma or something - I think it sits around 94db. Although a bit pricey, after weighing up the other Ti options (too loud), and considering the cost of getting booted off the track for being too loud at Phillip Island which is usually a $1k weekend, I have managed to justify it to myself! Near finished off the positive battery stuff last night until the post arrives. Neatened up the wiring a bit and made up a cable for the extra plugs to the interior loom. Spaced the bracket up a little to to avoid any shorting, will need to get some shielding in underneath just in case - don't want any sparks around that area. Flared fitting on to factory power steering hard line, just need a straight connector for the hose and I am in business. Hi Chris obviously first step is plugging up the air con & heater holes with some alloy plates. I have been looking at options of different materials. On my other car I just have some of that ACL heat shield around there and it works OK, however things do heat up in cabin on a warmer day. And that stuff is pretty hard to work with. I have been toying with the idea of doing a lot of the transmission tunnel (gearbox out) and exhaust area on both cars to really get the temps under control. I have my eye on this stuff from Motorsport Connections http://www.mscn.com.au/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=488
  15. Yeah I am going to have to sort something out, particularly as it will be on E85 so pump needs to be upgraded at a minimum. Obviously with the not so ideal tank set up in the 32 a surge tank is going to be high on the agenda. Will take Racepace's guidance on that one. What did you end up doing with yours?
  16. Things are looking pretty serious Robbie - I am liking it! Would match my magnificent cranium perfectly.
  17. Who are you buying through Anthony? I need one as well.
  18. Front bar is off and intake cleaning and assembly has begun. Made up a bracket for the positive battery cable. I have an actual red battery post on the way (currently is a firewall pass through) so I can put a lug on in place of the factory terminal and connect both that and the cable to the rear to the under side, shielded up of course, then have the post for jump starts. Pulled out the Tein Super Streets and put the revalved RA's in - need to start selling off some of this gear!
  19. Got your 31 and a low one at that!! Nice work John!! Now for a 30
  20. Would do but the stockies are long gone unfortunately sold off. Otherwise I would be tempted to chuck them back on as a stop gap to getting the car moving.
  21. Yeah hopefully does the trick. Good thing is the next two sizes up in the PWR transmission coolers are the same width so I can easily chuck a bigger core on without changing anything else if need be. Have finally decided today that I am going to replicate the setup from my 34. So alcon 4 pot kit on the rear, AP CP5555 on the front with the v8 supercar size rotors (can get a decent ex test pair for ~$300), and get the 34's rotor hats and dog bones replicated. It's going to be ridiculously over braked ... just how I like it. Will also use the Pagid RS29 yellow's - I love these pads, excellent from cold with that setup, handle everything I have thrown at them and much better feel than Ferodo's I find.
  22. Another busy day on the car... A few odds and ends arrived from Nissan this week. Radiator overflow because I have lost mine somewhere, also some clips as most of them didn't entirely survive the strip plus they are old, brittle and ugly. Also borrowed an oil air separator / windscreen washer from Racepace so I can measure up where I want tabs to bolt it down. Nice clean overflow installed. I have decided to stick with the 32 fuse box here and find a suitable +ve battery cable junction block. Having a look at the 34 one it's just too big and unnecessary. Overflow line installed. Radiator cap is going to be replaced with a standard Nissan 0.9bar. Rivnut will be going in here. .. and mount to factory hole here. P/s cooler lines sneaking past the radiator, got some cable organiser brackets as well. Lines finalised with some new head shield sleeve to replace the factory p/s reservoir return line ones which were a mess Bracket painted and all bolted in - I am making up one more bracket to brace the left hand side, its not too bad but to be sure These clamps were in pretty bad shape, all the rubber had perished, I had tried to add some foam in there but not good enough. Enter new ones... Much better, also replaced the one just below the booster hose, came in black instead of white - nice. Changed the oil cooler lines around a bit wasn't happy with the existing routing. Also the blue and red fittings made me cringe - pretty much everything is easily available in black now. Still need to do some work to secure these properly, but almost there Micolour has done an ace job - it's such a pleasure to work on. Engine bay as it stands ... amazing how much time you can sink into it. Those manifold heat shields are annoying me, want to blast and ceramic coat them, but reluctant to pull all that stuff apart when its all bolted together so nicely.
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