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Stixbnr32

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Everything posted by Stixbnr32

  1. Installed. Work mint and I think I may have solved my issue. Will find out back at the strip this season
  2. Yeah the whiteline kit looks really good and after talking to some folks I might have to buy it. We will see how the car drives after I raise it the 20mm as its far to low now im older (had the car for 7 years) haha. Just checking with a friend when he is back from holiday might be able to get a discount.
  3. Yeh I have talked to them its all sorted apparently and on the way.
  4. Found the adapter and the GFB kit and ordered. Cheers. Hope this fixes the leak I can hear on boost haha.
  5. Real good to know ill look into it. Thanks for that - that would work perfect and easy to fit.
  6. Yeh good advice. Spoke to my tuner he said the stock ones can some times lift causing a leak. Also said the type r ones the o ring and blow out and also not seal. Tial seems to be the way to go but would need some fab work done and to remove the recirc system since I am on MAP and not AFM's. Sweet think I have my solution sorted.
  7. I seem to have sprung a leak. Gas mileage has gone down and I seem to hear a leak underload. When I got it tuned (401kw) I remember the tuner had issues with my BOV's and he resolved it but told me that they could cause issues. So if I order a Greddy Type R BOV (one big one) how do I install it? I should need to retune it or anything like that? Thanks Again.
  8. What is recommended for a Street GTR spring rate wise? Keep in mind might do the odd track day. Cool it goes into the shop next week to raise up 20mm (big sump to close to the ground) so I will get them to check spring rates for me and come back to you guys. No point going ultra stiff if its not required.
  9. Team, I have some Tein suspension that has always been in my car and after my question on replacing bushes I was also looking at the Cusco sway bars. Problem is I do not know my spring rate in the current coilovers. They are bound to be stiff though as it is a rough ride. Do I look to upgrade the sway bars with cusco items which are very stiff front and rear? Do I use the standard links or is there something else you recommend? Do I swap the coilovers out for some Tein Flex Z's with adjustable dampers and spring rates on those are Front 7kg Rear 6kg. If I do that how do I match the sway bars to those? This is a street car 98% of the time. Or do I go Whiteline which comes with a complete kit (links and all) and then adjust with the suspension shop to suit my current teins? Thanks again.
  10. Cool to know. I currently have Nagisa Auto rose joints for the rear arm link sets and these have abit of play in them. They are adjustable arms but I dont really muck with it for street use. I have tein coil overs and was thinking of replacing the arms with Nismo units and selling off the adjustable arms. Will the Nismo units work good with Tein coil overs or should I keep the adjustable arms in there and replace the rose joints?
  11. I am looking at replacing the bushings in front and rear of my R32 GTR. I have been told to use OEM or Nismo and to forget Nolathane/Superpro rubbish (not my words). So my question is should I just get the Nismo bushings or are the arms a worthy upgrade as well?
  12. Yeah still in NZ. Hopefully one of the boys joe kyle or glenn suckling.
  13. Hello, I just need to make sure I am looking at the right part number. Does this match the rear outer tie rod bushes in the uprights.? I need to replace them. 55154-30p00
  14. Using HPI dumpies.
  15. I sure do somewhere. I will need to find it.
  16. eFully forged bottom end. Tomei Pistons and Nitto Conrods. does have stock crank. still 2.6. Yes well single turbo.....pockets are not that big at the moment. The driver for this is to get rid of the HKS F-con V as no one good can tune it in NZ now. So if I am going to retune I may aswell set it up better. with the 600cc injectors maxed I got 384KW ATW's but we pegged it back abit for the street I got about 375ish. I have 30,000 KM's so far on this tune and build. Soichi who was a legend here in NZ did fantastic work.
  17. Current mods are -5's Dumppipes 3.5 inch Tomei pon cams type b tomei valve springs/retainers/guides mild port n polish big sump tomei oil pump hks f con Full built bottom end and balanced Good radiator Nismo intank pump 600cc Nismo injectors Tomei FPR Oil cooler New mods. Frenchys performance in tank twin fuel pump setup -8an 2x Walbro 450hp each e85 pumps 3 -8an 200 series fuel lines TurboSmart FPR -8 AN 76mm Pro Plazmanm intercooler Twin entry fuel rail 1650cc ID Injectors Link g4 with ethanol sensor
  18. Hello, I am thinking of upgrading my fuel system to E85 and wonder what sort of power I will get with my -5 garrets? I have to upgrade my injectors anyway to push these turbos further on 98 but will I get much more power going to e85? Thanks
  19. Any other suggestions on what it could be? Glazed brakes? Water in the brake fluid? Heaps of meat on the pads and rotors at the moment.
  20. Yeah thoughts so.....ffs. Throwing pads in it on the weekend and some new rotors see how it goes.
  21. All checked and ok. Talking to some brake companies and they reckon a couple of things. 1) Wheel and tire combo is decreasing brake performance. 2) might have been a small bit of film or something on the rotor that didn't help at the time as it feels slightly better. They seem to think that big wide wheels will decrease braking performance - see it all the time apparently.
  22. It ended up been $3k NZD with seat repairs (including welding of some supports that were bent). Place in Auckland NZ called Auto Interior Specialists. Trevor is his name.
  23. Yeah foam all new in drivers seat and a layer on all other seats.
  24. So as an old R32 GTR my drivers seat had seen better days. Was going to get some knock of brides but in better judgment I got mine repaired. Here are the results.
  25. Hello, I just got my car out of the garage as its been stored most of winter and been driving it. I then noticed my brake pedal was hard to press and pretty wooden/stodgy. The car still stops but it wont lock up or kick in ABS. There is no ABS light. I think its the booster but I looked for a vacuum leak but could locate one. If its the check vavle in the booster where is this and how can I fault find. Any help be great. Thanks
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