admS15

Fix yours on the cheap and drive it till it won't drive no more. Probably a long time away.

They grip well, last well but are seriously noisy f**kers and only get noisier with age. Excellent bang for buck.

I have used this method on an sr20 and also coated the gasket with copper spray for good measure. I was sceptical about copper spray but a reputable and we'll respected mechanic/engine builder advised to use it, his words where that if it was a fresh build and the block had been machined he wouldn't but in the case of block still in car it was advisable and would seal any possible imperfections.

Went to sandown on saturday. Car ran strong all day. The morning sessions where wet as and a bit of a waste, i could of went faster with some oars and floaties. The afternoon was dry and the times tumbled. The 33 went 5.5 secs quicker than its last sandown and 2.3 secs faster than my own pb. Ended up with a 1:25.94. Was pretty stoked with that. Race chrono says theoretically i could have been in the high 24's which is quite believable as i messed up the exit of the slow corner at dandenong rd. I think the car could probably do 22-23 in better hands as it is. Had no issues throughout the day and the bonnet was only lifted for a looksie. The intima sr brake pads and rda 324mm discs worked well with some 35mm agi pipe ducts i rigged up. Video footage below.

That was my boat behind the coilovers. It was sweet sailing all day and in the morning literally

Don't you know SR = super reliable [emoji3]

After seeing the car on Saturday and what was happening and having a similar experience, my opinion is it is the h/g. As I said on the day if it was mine, seeing as the engine runs fine, doesn't blow smoke, makes good power and has decent compression. Id be pulling it down, getting the head inspected and skimmed, replacing the gasket and studs and putting back together. As others have said though, you would feel foolish if you did all that and the problem still persisted. I think maybe a leak down test is probably the next best move to try and determine 100% the problem before you start spending money. I doubt its your radiator or hoses but if you want to rule them out, I have a known good factory rad and brand new rad hoses in my shed at home you can borrow for testing. Its a bit of a tricky situation, maybe it's time for a professional diagnosis. Edit. I would definitely stay away from replacement 2nd hand engine, especially since your engine is a pretty decent unit.

Yokohama buy 3 get 1 free special atm doesn't include ad08, only some shitty suv tyres. I got my ad08 through bob jane of all places, was actually better priced than traction tyres. I noticed the tyre factory advertising RS3 last week on ebay for 269 for 265/35/18.

The car did look like it was handling quite well. I know you had some concerns about the suspension in general. It looked ok to me, better than a couple of other cars I followed. Low boost is a good idea. Lololol

Greg, I followed your car down the main straight, into turn 1,2,3,4,5 and partly down the back straight and I thought it looked to be handling quite well. As far as traction out of the last turn, with the amount of power and torque you have on tap, throttle control is the key and yeah the biggest r spec tyres you can fit would be a good f**ken idea.

Why did he need to get towed. What happened?

Pretty sure he had rsrr on the front and ad08r on the back. I was parked in the garage next to him. My ad08r put down 312kw pretty well when dry. Would have been better off with some oars when wet. LOL [emoji23]

I think the biggest difference was made by the pads, of course the rotors and ducts would've helped a bit. If you're not regularly tracking I wouldn't bother with braided lines if your stock lines are in good nick. If you have to replace because they look suspect then definitely worth it. My 2c[emoji4]

Ok. So just did the sandown track day yesterday and gave the sr's a good pounding. Sandown is very taxing on the brakes so perfect for reviewing the performance of these pads. The car is a R33 gtst, stock sumitomo calipers, plain rda 324mm rotors with adaptors up front and rda slotted/drilled standard sized rears with sr pads all round, penrite 10 tenths fluid and stock brake lines. Small 35mm agi pipe ducts run from front bar to back of discs on front. Completed 43 laps during the day. 30 of those in anger as it was wet in the morning. Every session was run flat out, no cool down laps. The intima Sr get a big thumbs up from me. No fade at all, after they get hot, you do have to apply a little more pressure to the pedal but they still stop fantastic. As the day progressed I got more and more confident with the braking and the sr just kept doing the job. They squeeled a few times when real hot and that's about the only bad thing I can say. They didn't wear much either and the amount of brake dust that came off them wasn't much at all considering what they had just been through. They did get a real good workout and the car was going quick, managed to break into the 1. 25's which is pretty damn good for a stock brake system. On the road for daily driving they are also fantastic. Quiet, low dust, almost squeel free. Only heard a slight squeel once or twice. Overall, great Street pad that can definitely handle track abuse as well. Would definitely recommend to anyone looking for a pad that is good for the street, reasonably priced and can handle track duties.

Thanks to all involved in the organisation and running of the event. You guys are the unsung heros. Turned out to be a great day after a soggy wet start. Thanks again[emoji106]

No I didn't because it became very evident at track days. The coolant smelled like co2. It was pushing that much coolant, I had rigged up a second overflow bottle to catch it all. LOL. In your case I wouldn't jump to any conclusions yet. If all goes well on Saturday, it will be fine.

I had this issue with an sr20. Was perfect on the street and hills but would fill the overflow at the track and once enough coolant was lost would get hot. Engine was forged bottom, cometic Hg and arp studs. I pulled it down and it turned out that the black coating on the Hg in certain spots had worn away and was allowing gases into the water jackets under prolonged boost. Replaced it with a nitto and happy days again.

Can vouch for dose pipes pricing, service and efficiency.

I've got a spare cap, rad hoses and various bits and pieces I will bring along on Saturday. If you have any dramas, I'm willing to lend a hand to get you back on track[emoji106]. With a bit of luck, hopefully all goes well and you can just concentrate on driving.

Not me but someone hell bent on owning a gtr and just has to have it, probably will. Prices have already started going up, they're not going to start coming down because we don't like it. LOL.

It's all relative to availability. As time goes on and the number of good clean cars decreases, the price will go up. Supply and demand. Fact of life.

The pads you suggest will be fine. I'm running them myself. Very good on the street. I will be track testing them on Saturday. Since your mainly daily driving with occasional track use, you can even go with the cheaper rda plain rotors or if your current rotors aren't under size you can reuse those and have them skimmed If needed. My 2c. Cheers. To answer the question on slots, they don't really do too much but do look pretty cool. So really its more a question if you're willing to spend some extra $ for the look factor. I personally run plain on the front and slotted on the rear only because I got them dirt cheap.

That's weird. I know rb20 and I think R34 25 boxes use a smaller bush. Maybe you can try one of those. Still wouldn't make sense as to why. Very odd indeed.

Sounds like good news anyway[emoji106] see you out there on Saturday.

Did you change rad cap?