Die$eL

great. Thanks. Sorry for all the questions. Will it be a direct bolt-on? Would I need to change oil lines/coolant lines or anything?

Thanks for all of the replies. I see the Hypergear stuff is strongly suggested. i'm looking at this: http://www.hypergearturbos.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=57 ATR43 400~600HP T3x Internally gated turbocharger Would I need to send my turbo in to Hypergear or is this a whole new turbo? (can i part-exchange my turbo? Else I got no use for it)

Apologies, I know there are probably loads of threads about this. A search brings up a stack of results but nothing that specifically answering my question. My stock turbo popped on my R33 GTST (I think its series 1.5). There is slight shaft play and the impeller is touching the housing. Question is, should I recon it and have the ceramic wheel replaced with a metal one or change the turbo? My end goal is 400-450hp. The plan was to do injectors, MAF etc. before the turbo but i have to change that around now. If I change the turbo, what are the suggestions for something which will be a straight swop or close to it? The car is basically stock with just a milteck exhaust.

is it not a pulley bearing that is on its way out?

what if you pump the clutch a few times before doing any of that? Does the clutch engage very low/very high? Try bleeding the clutch system. Even better replace the clutch fluid and bleed out the old fluid

still need to get covers for the speakers. Those got damaged and lost over the last 26 years

Update time. 4 months of ownership and I can say I'm still loving the Skyline! It's so awesome!! I'm currently using it as my daily coz my wife's car has been going back and forth to Toyota. The gear lever vibrates in 6th gear and they simply cannot figure out why. They have been trying for months. Anyways, I've sorted the clutch issue on the Skyline. We replaced the clutch master and its now perfect. Also replaced the gearbox oil. There used to be a slight grate going into 4th when doing some spirited driving but thats now sorted. Replaced the cambelt, tensioner etc. Sorted the coolant leak. It was from the waterpump. Replaced the pump. I ordered shims to lock the diff a bit better and have been waiting for delivery for around a month. No end in sight yet. I found my set of Pioneer 8" limpids and built a back board and fitted those. Those speakers are around 26 years old. They still work well. Need to change the radio though. The car came with a crappy Telefunken. The car seems a little down on power. It feels like its pulling timing. When I put foot it quickly spools to 0.8bar and for that 1 second it feels like it wants to go, then it holds back. It's much worse on a hot day. I thought heat soak but i had been driving slow all along. Once the car warmed I put it down and this happened. It continued like that all day. I havent got to properly test after that but it does seem better but not as good as it was before. I cleaned the spark plugs but that did not make a difference. My next step will be to drop the boost to 0.5bar and see if that makes a difference. The reason i want to try this is that when on partial throttle and the boost is low it does not feel like its trying to hold back/pull timing.

Looks good. Very neat. Welcome

Regarding the difference in pipe size, you can get a reducer piece. One that is 3" on one end and 2" on the other. I'm no expert. Just offering my 2 cents worth.... As mentioned the stock elbow collapses under load. Rather replace with alu piping or so

Yip, try what Ben said. I had a similar issue with mine. Turning the knob towards the "-" increased the boost and turning towards the "+" decreased it.

My MR2 turbo does this. When on light throttle it misfires. I replaced just about all of the vacuum pipes. It's much better now but still not 100%. I still have the replace one pipe that comes into the cabin. Hopefully that sorts it.

I'm running WMI on my MR2 Spyder turbo. With an intake temp of around 58 degrees Celcius, if i switch on the WMI it drops to around 38 degrees Celcius within a few seconds. However once you come to a stop it increases again but thats ok. Thinking of getting a setup for the Skyline at some point but not just yet. Lots of other bits to sort first.

How do I do that?

Thanks for the kind words. I've owned quite a few cars and I must admit the Skyline is probably the most fun of all. Just the sound of it idling is something special. I still have my MR2 spyder which has been turbo'd. I've come to realise that if a car was not turbo from factory it isn't a good idea to add one. It's still a blerry awesome car and I love it but it scares the cr@p out of me and I just dont trust it the way I trust the Skyline. Anyways I will be selling the MR2 soon. Cant afford two toys. I also have a GT86. That's my wife's daily so I don't fiddle on it. Oh, update on the removal of the window tint. I got all of it off. Had to remove the rear seats and parcel shelf to get all the tint off the rear window. The film peeled off but the colour and glue stayed on the window. I used a spray bottle filled with thinners to melt the glue and then simply wiped it all off. Worked really well! Will have new tint fitted on Saturday. I wanted to go with a light grey but now i'm leaning towards a light black instead.

Die$eLs R33 GTSt build Posting this here now that I found the correct section. I'm Nishan from South Africa. I know this is an Australian forum but it seems you guys are in the know on the Skylines and it's extremely difficult to find anyone here in SA that knows them well. I've just got myself a 95 R33 GTSt. I've always wanted the GTR but after getting the GTS I'm satisfied. Just the sound of the RB25 puts a smile on my face. Current mods include: Milltek exhaust, button clutch, manual boost controller, coilovers and 18" Lenso wheels I have a LOOONG list of to-do items. All in good time though. - the clutch is weird. It sometimes does not come back all the way up. We stripped the master cylinder and tried to get new seals but could not so we reassembled it. Clutch does seem better now but not perfect. I've been promised a brand new clutch master and slave from a guy who is breaking his car. Waiting for him to find the parts as he is moving house. - small coolant leak from water pump - bought a new one but it's in cape town (over 1000kms away). Just need to get it shipped up to me. - machine polish the body as it has lost some of its lustre - Did a hand polish and there is a Huge difference. Will get it clayed and detailed once the pressing issues are sorted. - oil service - Done! - check and clean spark plugs - Done - check and clean brake system - Checked but did not clean yet. - replace rear tyres - Done - engine bay cleanup and tidy - Partly done. Still lots more to do - strip and clean entire air intake system including ISCV, MAF etc.- Started. I've cleaned part of the intake system and the MAF. I've never seen a MAF that dirty. Previously the fumes off the car made your eyes burn and there was a strong fuel smell. This is now sorted after I cleaned the MAF. It does however idle a little high. I assume its just the ecu that needs to re-learn. I also found a tiny fuel leak on the pipe just below the fuel filter. Tightened the clamp and that is resolved. - restore the headlights - They were polished along with the car and are Much better. Still need to do another polish on them though. The speedometer was not working. I found a plastic wire connector from the speed sender on the gearbox that broke and was undone. Zip tied it together and now it works but not perfect. The speedo gets stuck around 60kph and then when you are around 120kph it jumps and catches up. Sometimes it just dies and then comes back to life when it feels the need to do so. I also fiddled with the manual boost controller and got it boosting at 0.75bar (11psi). I believe this is still safe on the stock turbo. It however sometimes starts boosting more than that and I need to readjust it. - remove the super dark window tint and replace with a light grey/black - I started on this. All the side windows are now clean but the rear windscreen has the tint baked on because of the sun and it proving really difficult to remove. - coolant flush and replace (will do when i'm repairing the leak) - replace diff oil - replace gearbox oil - replace fuel filter - chassis clean - grease axle, U-Joints etc. - polish intake manifold - replace cam belt and all the bits that go with it. - there is some weird noise at times. Its difficult to explain.I thought it was the power steering but now I'm thinking it could be the releaser bearing (throw out bearing). It only does this when the car is cold. - the dash surrounds around the radio etc have been plastidipped and bits are worn. I will be pulling it off, cleaning it up and recoating it.

Hi, I just got my skyline so I'm not particularly familiar with it yet but are all the sensors plugged in and proper? Maf, O2 etc? A friend had his O2 sensor wires on his Rav4 chewed by his dog and had similar symptoms.

Thank you sir!

This is awesome! Please check mine: ECR33055646

oh shyte. I see that now. How do I move/delete the thread?

Sprayed the rims black

Progress updates in italics. - clutch master cylinder needs to be refurbed - stripped it, tried to get new seals but could not so reassembled it. Clutch does seem better now but not perfect. - small coolant leak from water pump - bought a new one but it's in cape town (over 1000kms away). Just need to get it shipped up to me. - machine polish the body as it has lost some of its lustre - Did a hand polish and there is a Huge difference. Will get it clayed and detailed once the pressing issues are sorted. - oil service - Done! - check and clean spark plugs - Done - check and clean brake system - Checked but did not clean yet. - replace rear tyres - Done - engine bay cleanup and tidy - Partly done. Still lots more to do - strip and clean entire air intake system including ISCV, MAF etc.- Started. I've cleaned part of the intake system and the MAF. I've never seen a MAF that dirty. Previously the fumes off the car made your eyes burn and there was a strong fuel smell. This is now sorted after I cleaned the MAF. - restore the headlights - They were polished along with the car and are Much better. Still need to do another polish on them though. The speedometer was not working. I found a plastic wire connector from the speed sender on the gearbox that broke and was undone. Zip tied it together and now I know by how much i'm exceeding the speed limit. I also fiddled with the manual boost controller and got it boosting at 0.75bar (11psi). I believe this is still safe on the stock turbo. Still to do: - coolant flush and replace (will do when i'm repairing the leak) - replace diff oil - replace gearbox oil - replace fuel filter - remove the super dark window tint and replace with a light grey/black - chassis clean - grease axle, U-Joints etc. - polish intake manifold - replace cam belt and all the bits that go with it. - there is some weird noise at times. Its difficult to explain. I'm assuming its the power steering pump/system. Will flush and replace the fluid. - the dash surrounds around the radio etc have been plastidipped and bits are worn. I will be pulling it off, cleaning it up and recoating it.

Oh, one more thing. I replaced the rear tyres which were 235/40/18 with 255/35/18 They fit ok but are stretched ever so slightly on the rim. I think I heard them touch while cornering a little hard. Any ideas whats is the broadest tyre that I could fit on the front? They are currently 225/40/18 and they are very stretched.

Here are some close up pics of that thing, whatever it is. I cut it open and there are some sort of beads in it. Anyways I binned it. We had a long weekend so I got some stuff done on the car. Confirmed it has LSD by having both rear wheels in the air and they spin in the same direction. Sprayed the rear wiper arm, the wheels, the clamps that hold the radiator and those that hold the aircon radiator as well as the nuts that hold them. The wheels took me forever to do as I had to clean and sand them first and then apply a few coats of primer and wait between each coat. + it was cold so it took long to dry I also used a grinding stone attachment on the drill and ground down the curb rash. I'm SOOOoo happy with the end result. Oh, I managed to fiddle with the manual boost controller and got it boosting at 11psi (0.75bar) I noticed though that it boosts to 0.75bar as I go into each gear and as i pull through the rev range it starts dropping and ends up at 0.5bar. Any ideas on why? Got the car hand polished but I still need to do a glaze sometime soon.

no the mesh isn't metal. its like a fiber thing. I forgot to take close up pics after I removed it. will do when I get home. I initially though something to do with grounding but when I saw it doesnt really connect anything together I doubted that. It's just from one part of metal to another part of the same metal.

Hi all, Any ideas what this is? It was just bolted to the body inside the engine bay. Looks like a sack filled with some beads. I assumed it's some sort of prayer item/good luck charm that the previous owner had put in and I removed it.