smart_garrett

The consult wiring guide is the guide I used to rewire my consult port to a new wiring specialties pig tail. I have 12v and a ground, but I’m not sure what I should be seeing at the Rx, tx, and clk connections, if anything.

The car starts and runs great. I also tested the wiring from the consult port to ecu and everything was good, even rewired a new port and still no luck.

Looking for a little electrical help. I have a hcr32 on a Nistune ecu that at first, had problems with holding connection to the software even with the key only in the on position with the engine off(so not an electical noise issue). Now, I cannot connect to the ecu at all with Nistune, or data scan software. I have tried different cables, different laptops, even re-wired a new consult port in. After that I tired the paper clip jump trick to get codes to flash and nothing worked. I have just got another oem ecu, and still have no luck. I’m quite stuck now and id appreciate any help. Thanks

The one under the drivers side dash, yes.

Hi all, I've recently been battling tuning my car(hcr32). A couple months ago I could connect to my ecu(nistune chipped) and it would sometimes lose connection (even with plms cable). This made me make some extra grounds and had no luck. Now recently, I cant even connect at all (Nistune gives me the spare com port error). Ive tried to connect with different cables, nistune software and datascan software, even tried the paperclip jump trick and got no response from the dash when I would before a couple months ago. I took out my ecu and inspected all points inside the ecu and it looks good, when i tried to turn the knob on the ecu to flash the diag led, I got absolutely nothing. I rewired the consult port with new wiring and a new port connection, still get nothing.. Does anyone have any advice? I'm leaning towards a bad ecu since the led wouldn't even light, but i'm not 100% sure. Thanks for any help in advance.

bump, i'm having this same issue. cant connect to data scan or nistune. I checked the inside of the ecu and all points look good. My ecu diag led light also does nothing...

WOW! That's what i thought it was and a SHOP!!!! was telling me it was for the injectors...... wow, i got so confused.

Hey guys, I have a Rb20det in throwing some 444cc Deatschwerks injectors into. My question is do I have to unplug the injector resistor box on the passenger side of the engine bay or should I leave it in? Thanks for any help

Hello, So at my last track day a couple weeks ago everything was going fine but after a couple sessions all of a sudden when i was pulling into the paddock, my car would not idle at all and had horrible misses below 2k rpm. Everywhere else in the rev range it ran fine an did not break up. Now I've done some testing so I went with the simple stuff first: plugs gapped right, r8 coils(deletes the ignitor). That did nothing. So then i replaced my coolant temp sensor and checked tps voltage, that fixed the idle issue. So I went to check my timing. With the light the first time i checked the marks were so far past advanced that it would have been blown up by now, so I was confused and shut the car off to have a drink. Came back and started it up again to look and now it was a little past the last mark at 30* degrees and was able to get it to 20, with the cas retarded almost all the way it allowed me too. I then went for a test drive and the car ran fine but when pulling it out of the driveway it died. I pulled it in to check the timing and it was the same at 20*. So i went to drive again and got out on the road and got on it, it reved up fine and built boost with no missing, but felt like it had legitimately zero power, and off throttle it gurgled a bit. I replaced my cas and that changed nothing. I'm stumbled at this point. Any pointers?? Thanks for any help.

Yes i have a seperate gauge, ill just try it

Ok, so can I just ground one wire from the new sensor and splice the other one into the old sensor?

@mr.carnage on instagram had really wide 15" welds on his 33 gtr. He could probably help you out there

Yea I thought it was the single too, that’s what someone else said too... that’s why I’m confused on the wiring

Ohh , I was told the single was for the gauge! Thanks for the clarification

Hello, so i have my aftermarket coolant gauge wired to an sensor in the upper hose, the 2 wires can be seen going into the sensor, but I want to use the existing port that is for the stock coolant gauge. The problem is there are 2 wires going to the sensor i have now in the upper hose, but only 1 going into the stock location where i want to wire my aftermarket gauge too. What do I have to do to wire it? I dont think the stock sensor is a 1/8th npt size either? (pictures below) Thanks for any help

Gauge is tapped into the top coolant hose.

Hello, I recently installed some gauges into my car and have noticed that the coolant temp will not break above 140*F (60*C) when im moving and will only get up to about 180*F(82*C) if im standing still for a few minutes. Im pretty sure the car has a stock thermostat and it does have electric fans that are wired to turn on at about 190*F(88*C). The fans have a probe sensor that is put into the rad ,which Im not a huge fan of. I also have noticed a few times the fans have turned on well before the car has gotten up to 190, and when im driving when its cold out, around 0*C the temp will rise and then actually fall way down to almost 110*F. Any input on this? Bad thermostat? Thanks for any help.

I’m fitting an rb25 turbo on my RB20 and am wondering what the best sounding outlet pipe is. I’ve looked at the tomei, but I’m not really looking at spending 300 usd for an outlet pipe. What else do you guys think? Also looking at downpipes aswell.

But I thought the window has to be down to get the regulator and motor out?

Hello all, recently I’ve been having some trouble with my drivers side window. The symptoms it was showing would lead me to re solder the window relay, I ended up getting a new one and the problem did not change. The window is stuck up, when I switch the switch to the up position, there is a click from the relay (which is good), when I click the switch down there is no click. So I’m wondering if the problem is the switch or the regulator motor, I’m hoping it’s the switch but I really don’t know. I also took the switch out and cleaned it, then I put it back in and the window went down, so I put it back up again, and when I went to put it down and it was stuck up again. Thank you for any help.

Also what 52mm gauges do you guys recommend?

hello, will this sandwich plate fit on my '91 gtst with the rb20det. https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Filter-Sandwich-Adapter-Thread/dp/B007SXGAZQ or do I need https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Oil-Filter-Sandwich-Adapter/dp/B001PLNDF2/ref=pd_rhf_cr_s_cp_0_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001PLNDF2&pd_rd_r=PE3WR92ANH9ZN2YZ3TZA&pd_rd_w=j5IbC&pd_rd_wg=nlGKw&psc=1&refRID=PE3WR92ANH9ZN2YZ3TZA Thank you.

Hello everyone, I am fitting oil and coolant temp gauges to my r32 gtst. I am wondering a few things Normal Oil operating temperature - Oil temp that I should not go above - Normal Coolant operating temperature - Coolant temp that I should not go above - Thank you.

Hello, i recently bought mishimoto fans and shroud and also https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OBEOT0S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 my plan was to just use the probe sensor in the rad, but i was also wondering if i could splice the probe wire to the existing sensor on the bottom of the rad. Would this work? Although it looks to be as the sensor on the car has 2 wires going into it but the probe only has 1.... maybe splice into one of the 2 on the top of the rad? Thanks for any help

Gold Rfp1's on a kh2 hcr32? Looking into rfp1's for my 91' r32 gtst, its the gray(kh2) colour and im wondering if anyone is running gold rfp1's on their car, or how it would look?