joshuaho96

If it was totally fine before and then suddenly now you're having horrific running issues maybe crack open the ECU and take a look to see if the capacitors have died. Any ECU on original caps from this era is suspect.

Not a bad idea at this point, here's what mine looked like:

I've also heard that part of the reason why it dies is often some contamination like one of the o-rings in the filter housing disintegrating and bits of it clog up the sensor. Personally I don't worry about it being a problem.

An EFR7163 would be 0.80 a/r for twin scroll, 0.85 for single scroll.

If the goal is street use I recommend using the longest runner manifold you can find. Look at a factory VG30DETT manifold, it's incredibly long compared to an RB26 to help it make good torque down low.

I would pick a small bolt-on turbo and set my targets much, much lower. RBs are annoying to build for big power, a guy I know has gone single GTX3576R gen 2 on his RB26 and even with a whole laundry list of oil control modifications he is still filling his catch can on the track.

Do a leakdown and/or compression test. Then make sure it hasn't spun a bearing. If both of those things are fine then it will be fine for a while.

This is actually the first time I've ever heard of this.

Looks like it. I believe I saw a kit a while back that was M-LED specific and was identical to the Mini D2S other than a metal mounting bracket while the HID one was something else. Fitting an M-LED could be interesting. A Morimoto engineer(?) mentioned that it is possible to easily meet FMVSS and add OEM-style squirrel spotters, they just don't because the market demands a certain look to the projectors: https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/general-discussion/leds/1464681-mled-2-0-is-out-thoughts

Guaranteed to be spam, the pattern is super obvious to spot. First post is vague and seems maybe relevant, then they start linking random crap.

Some people seem to be dumping on this car really hard but to me this is basically a brand new Z32 with nearly zero mods needed to make it into a really good car. SavageGeese has said this EPS rack is actually better than the old 370Z hydraulic rack in feel and feedback. It's probably not going to feel as good as a good hydraulic rack like an R32 but you'll never have to deal with the rack seeping fluid from every line and seal as it ages either.

There is some kind of locking pin on the VVT cam gear that holds it in place during cold start and other conditions where the VVT is not going to work properly. So you're going to have to trace the path from the gauge to this pin and verify there's no weird behavior like leaks, etc.

They seem to like the driving feel far, far more than the outgoing 370Z. Clutch slave is also external on the transmission. This may actually be a really good one.

This is the R34 workshop manual: r34workshopmanualjap.pdf

I don't know why but there is no mention of how to test the cold start valve on the AAC assembly. I would only look closer at the cold start portion if you have normal ignition timing once the car is warmed up but you see less timing when the engine is cold.

The 9G-Tronic doesn't shift lightning fast or anything like that. All modern automatics lock up after something like 9 mph as long as you aren't shifting gears for fuel efficiency reasons. To make it "more direct" some will also lock the torque converter even on decel if it thinks you want engine braking but as far as I can tell most still unlock the TC on decel to reduce drag. If you already have a manual car and you just want something that is less annoying in traffic then it should be fine. US press embargo lifts about 24 hours from this post, I'm curious to see if SavageGeese likes this one any better than the 370Z which was dumped on by a number of reviewers for a rubbery feel in the controls and other issues.

Ignition timing during engine warm-up is going to be a bit of a mess. The NEO IACV has two parts. One is the solenoid valve which is almost certainly never going to fail. The other is a coolant temperature controlled thermostat that meters more air when coolant temps are low but closes up as the coolant temps go up. This is the part that I'm worried about leaking excess air assuming you don't have any other vacuum leaks. If it doesn't close up properly the idle target will drop because the ECU sees coolant temp has reached a reasonable target but the actual thermostat isn't closing up properly and that's causing it to have to yank the timing out to get there. Maybe with hot enough coolant it finally closes up enough to have sane timing values but still low side of what you should be seeing. Also, if you see the ECU connection dropping out I would make sure your USB connection is good first and foremost. I've had a lot of issues like that due to a bad USB cable. Also verify the consult port is connected properly and there's no weirdness like loose pins or other damage to the connector. Then maybe check the ECU capacitors?

I don't know of any dealer anywhere that will ever touch a grey market import, nor do you really want their staff getting anywhere near one. If you need a diagnostic tool look into Nissan Datascan 2. It may not cover every single module in the car but it will probably cover everything you need and it is cheap compared to finding a real Nissan Consult tool.

There is no way you avoid pulling the dash on an R34, the passenger airbag makes everything a lot harder.

Isn't that M-LED projector worse than the Mini D2S though for light output? I feel like I remember reading that somewhere. Also not a fan of the need to clearance the housings to fit the cooling solution. I'm sure LED is better if properly utilized but it seems like a lot of the solutions out there are limited by thermals.

Amayama prices have been completely nuts for a while now. Almost anything if I can help it I order either through a local dealer if the part number is listed in the US parts catalog or from US-based dealers that will import/stock JP-only part numbers on a special order basis. They only use surface mail though so if they don't have something in stock it will be 3-4 months.

Check the signal at the pump hat and see if it’s also indicating something broken. If it isn’t then you need to go upstream. I would probably check the signal at the gauge cluster at that point.

In the US you can get a real steering column with EPAS, it's only RHD countries that are forced into the frankly terrible DAS system, supposedly the starter motor interferes with the steering column in RHD. You can only get a normal steering column with the 2L variants.

I would just make sure the parts are good. Hard part is making sure the turbos are rebuilt properly as well, those things spin at some ridiculous RPM so there is very little tolerance for any mistakes. I would probably ask Hypergear to see if they could do it. Likely not the cheapest option but I would value someone experienced that can do the job right over having to pull the turbos multiple times. I'd be suspect of most ebay rebuild kits, mostly because it's so hard to know the exact provenance of those parts. There are some people who know what they're talking about, I'm just some random kid that doesn't really know what they're doing. So don't worry too much about it, you're in good company.

Personally I'm holding out for the base map that uses a neural network for cylinder air charge estimation that takes all the work out of it.