r32-25t

I didn’t watch the video I just assumed, uk dyno their cars at the wheels then make up some number that it makes at the fly wheel usually in lots of 50s and use that number to state what power it makes

It’s an American dyno, they make 500 with stock turbos and injectors

The fg one was a gt3576 and the ba/bf was a 3582

Yes that’s normal

The old racecar backwards is racecar and race car upside down is expensive

This, and I’m picturing he has bought a brand new head and block which are empty castings and needs everything from including guides.

And you could bolt all three of them together and you’d still make less power then the rb26

And then add cams, springs, valves, guides, lifters, shins, head studs, gasket, port work, cam gears and labor plus any bolt ons, hoses, timing kit, covers and anything else no one has thought of and you’re looking at 30-35aud or 21-24us

By the time you add machine work and etc there wouldn’t be much change and that’s not taking into account if he also needs an inlet manifold, injectors and etc

Looking at how he’s written the date he’s American, which will also make his power figure very easy to achieve. Not sure how far your 15,000 budget is going to get you, you’re probably going to have to keep it fairly simple to stay within budget

Yes or an efr or a precision,

Fixed lol

Can you even buy a gt3582 anymore or have they finally joined trex into extinction?

I don’t think they’ve tuned Japanese cars in years

The only thing I’m really concerned with is the turbine housing which was supposed to have a beanie and will still be getting one, everything else has been has plenty of gap and won’t be a problem

It’s the stock diff that’s been rebuilt with nismo plates, it’s enough to feel it chatter on tight turns while accelerating but not enough to make it uncomfortable wheel alignment is on the cards as are fresh tyres. the 4wd is to slow at the moment, going to give it a bleed and see what happens also looking at better quality coil overs

I still haven’t had the chance to really drive it properly because of different things and then when I got it working properly it tried to kill me and now I need to look into why

Thanks mate, it hasn’t been without it’s challenges since getting it back and it has shown some weaknesses in other parts of the car

Anyone else tried these and have any feed back?

The hicas is long gone and was replaced with a lock bar, it still has the rack ends and tie rod ends on it but they’re all close to brand new

That’s what I’ll be doing, yes it goes very alright lol. Once i put it on high boost and gave it a boot in second I had to start grabbing lock to make sure it didn’t hit a gutter or tree or fence. need to find some rear end grip or make the 4wd keep up with the car or both

I don’t believe the issue is the oil ending up in the head, it’s just moving away from the pick up under acceleration

Only oil mods are a tomei baffle in the stock sump and cam cover baffles and a catch can that vents to atmosphere. Everything else is stock cause it’s still a stock unopened r33 engine

Bit of and update I had an issue where every time I’d boot the car it would trip the engine protection and throw an oil pressure code, we thought maybe the engine protection was set a bit aggressive. we took the car for a drive with a data logger going and fair enough it was losing oil pressure rapidly, put an extra liter of oil in it and presto all fixed. Which shows the protection was doing it’s job perfectly. Lesson learned that even with a baffle in the sump it’s still not good enough, something better is on the cards at a later time

That would be cool, bayside blue with the torana black outs and a set of 16in hot wires