BAMR33

Circuit in Toowoomba ehh... don't think so buddy. QR is like 30mins from Brisbane.

Good to see, you may have found the fault with all split dump pipes.

You can get a really nice modded Series 2 r33 with suspension, plenty of power for under 20k. GTiR's are ugly, hard to get some parts, hard work on and dated.

apexi s-avc-r. I like it because I have one, holds boost perfectly, rpm based boost control and blue screen . However now that I've had it for ages I think I'd prefer the PFC boost control kit.

Not really, guesstimates at ~$700 retail. I know a couple guys who have had this done through MTQ, except they got them at mates rates.

Prices dude, this isn't eBay.

Standard turbo with steel wheels. Lots of response, cost effective, BB and you can still run 16psi through it with the fear of the rear wheel flying off.

Heater tap stuck open is the most common cause, btw not sure how this thread has anything to do with FI

Yeah, I'm not too sure on installed prices that was just based on other peoples estimates. I'll probably call pro engines tomorrow see what their pricing is like.

They've got different input shaft types. The earlier ones has a half moon shaped key, prone to wear and breaking the later one has a star key looking thing, it's stronger and easier to get in. I'd stick with the cams and just get a later model cas, I think one of the traders had cas's for sale. On the ECU side of things I'm not sure, but I'd say they'd be the same.

Yeah $400 installed is cheaper and less time consuming than a new engine, but I was just under the impression the rb30 pumps had a full length drive and might not suffer engagement issues as much, if at all.

LMAO at land barge... so true

What is the safest option for an oil pump on a budget 25/30? The motor won't be revved above 7500rpm, the motor will be used with VCT, no oil squirters and I will have one block off restrictor in the head and an external oil return to the sump. At the moment I have easy access to an rb30 NA pump, the stock rb25det pump or I also can get a hold of an rb30et pump. Now the problem is I'm not keen on using an rb25det pump as they have a larger gear width than the drive which requires a crank collar and this involves machining and as far as I've seen the only crank collars I've come across are for rb26? Do these also fit rb25? The other option is using the standard na or turbo rb30 pump which I believe does not require a crank collar? Not sure if this true, but at least the gear width is the same. What I'm thinking is the rb30 oil pumps supply less pressure and flow than rb25det pump, which I'm not sure is a problem or not? Since it will not need to feed oil squirters. Can some one clear this up for me... If the rb30 pumps do require a crank collar I'll be just as well using the rb25 pump. However at the revs and power level I'm aiming for maybe the rb25, rb30 pumps won't even need a collar?

bump stops too high.

Get the suspect ports fill welded and ground back shouldn't cost too much, I'd say it would still be usable once this is done. I wouldn't be asking for an exchange, I'd be asking for credit as it's not worth the $350+. $150 your way would be fair. Can you still access the plenum advertisement in your eBay feedback? if so take careful note of how it's written, some ads on eBay can be deceiving to the actual description of the item.

Keep on winding the actuator up more and then going for a test drive. And if you've got an ebc that supports rpm based boost control you could overshoot the boost level where boost starts to drop off i.e. instead of aiming for 15psi where boost drops, aim for 18psi, it might average off to 15psi.

So did you test taking off the rear muffler like you said your were going to do originally. Could still be the wastegate actuator, I too have a HKS one and they're substantially smaller and lighter the standard item, maybe they're not up to the job...

Thats cheap, you should be able to sell them quick.

MTQ are good for hi-flows, fairly cheap too.

Slide hi-flows fairly much just bolt on with you're stock equipment. kkr requires a v-band flange for the dump pipe and a screamer or plumb back pipe for the wastegate.

why not r33 GT-R...

I'd put in a new set of rings at least and oil restrictors in the head. Must be the week to start on an rb30, I just bought an excellent condition rb30 series 2 block and I'm in the process of buying vct r33 head. Also maybe putting a slide hi-flow on, except the one I have is only the rb25 rear housing

You don't need anything to do with magnet, but you may need your head checked.

I think a baffled sump would help when doing track work. Also slightly over filling the sump helps too. RB30 you don't need new pistons for 200-300rwkW if you get a good rb30, you just need the pistons ceramic coated. Was there much oil in the catch can when the motor let go? I think the rb25 pump will be fine and if you follow all SK's oil control modifications you should have reliable motor.

The bottom of the pump sits 4-5cm below the bottom of the bracket. Is that better. 044 is overkill for a mild gtst.