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BAMR33

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Everything posted by BAMR33

  1. *makes note to self * 'sell z32 afm and replace with stock afm next tune'
  2. Yeah just double check everything battery, earths, connectors etc. You should still be able to see the dash lights when you put the key in. Can you hear the starter motor going or the fuel pump priming? or is just totally dead?
  3. dan666 had issues with boost dropping off partially because of the split pipe, he then upgraded to bell mouth and fixed the boost issue. He also had hi-flowed turbo though.
  4. A couple of nuts and bolts are hard to get at with out a hoist, but can still be done relatively easy. Anyone with a set sockets could do it. The input diameter of the cat looks smaller than that of the dump pipe, I'd be thinking of upgrading that to while your at it .
  5. Did your s1 motor have an ignition module? and have you fitted it to the new motor?
  6. Back pressure helps for a smooth idle and response when driving around the street, but for gaining mid range and top end power the bigger (sensibly) the better and 3" is pretty much right on for the rb20. The muffler shop guy is probably just use to dealing with NA cars. The cat and mufflers will give you all the back pressure you need.
  7. It won't raise the boost pressure in a 33 as the pressure signal is taken after the intercooler. 600x300x76 cooler is excessively big for a stock car, you'll loose some throttle response and fuel economy. Personally I'd do the intercooler at the same time I was doing turbo.
  8. Take it back to them would be the obvious suggestion.
  9. Do you have the s2 reo? or what... The s2 front bar will go on if you have the reo to suit, if you've only got s1 reo you may to modify it to fit. The 4 screw holes in the guards line up those of s2 bar the rest just sits flush with no connection between bar and body.
  10. +1 for boost cut, try turning down the boost. Might also be the wastegate actuator.
  11. Hmmm not sure why a series 1 wouldn't have vct... Does it have aftermarket cam gears or something. and yes it will work the series 2 loom as long as someone hasn't done something weird with it. There's probably nothing wrong with head off your motor, so buy a spare rb30 FTW.
  12. .8 bar what you're running = 11.6psi, i'd say it's pretty close to the money. Boost looks to drop off pretty bad, might want to try cleaning the solenoid as ebc's as supposed to hold a flat line when operating correctly.
  13. There pretty good at cracking and gaining no performance. But if you like taking manifolds on and off over and over again go for it.
  14. You can use either, the 040 has a filter built in and has to be mounted low, the 044 uses the standard sock filter and hose. If your r33 is stock you don't need either, if it's making 220rwkW - 280rwkW use the 040, if it's making 280rwkW - 400rwkW use 044.
  15. tomei kaira front bar, 400r skirts, trust rear bar, r34 gt-r wing.
  16. MTQ Toowoomba do hi-flows and have dyno facilities, if I didn't have my turbo hi-flowed by slide when it was all the rage I definitely would have had it done by these guys.
  17. Yeah, shopping at 11pm on Sunday FTW
  18. Did you buy it second hand? because someone may have sold you a different afm claiming it was a z32
  19. Cheers for that great information, now I'll just take a shopping list into pirtek rather than trying to explain to them what I need . You could use bundy tubing for the feed line too.
  20. EVO, Porsche, GT-R all good choices. Fck the fuel saver, why spend that much a volkswagen
  21. Yeah it's right, all the exedy street clutches are surprisingly light on the foot. Only problem is from my experiences they never grip up when you dump the clutch .
  22. With a 1m piece of steel tube as an extension.
  23. More ignition timing maybe? knock level of 20 is fairly conservative. Maybe an ex cam gear like you said earlier.
  24. Is it just a ceramic cat? Usually these are a fair bit of a restiction... What knock figures were getting?
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