Dale FZ1

Great effort so far. Much respect when the work is self-done. Love the flares and rear spoiler. Cage design looks very similar to mine

What housing was on your S369SXE?

Best part is, you're making something that suits YOU! Not many people make their own flares and panels. I like the bolt on flares. But my favourite "look" is the Alfa 155GTA DTM, circa 1996. Even better, search up some vids and turn up the sound. Very keen to see these progress further when you're back home from work.

That one should be 19mm, and it's from reservoir to the pump. Therefore not high pressure

Super hot gases will give valves, turbo, manifold, gaskets and wastegate a flogging. Inspect and re-install OEM valves if serviceable. Forget anti lag. Drive car more often.

Pics showing design and positioning of the RHS can. Simple construction, hollow/unbaffled internally. Main body is 63mm tube with a 40mm neck to suit filter. AN nipple on the bottom to take the hose fitting. The most important aspect of this was to have a constant fall in the house routed from the can to sump level, nowhere for oil to pool and be blown out the filter by crankcase gases being vented. As per previous comment, the two cans are effectively used to vent blow by gases direct from the sump. Understanding the behaviour of oil within the sump while the engine is operating at speed/load, and with lateral/longitudinal acceleration loads is not easy, but we learned quickly that a diverter/guide near the sump fittings is necessary to deter oil climbing the crankcase wall and being pushed into the vent hose along with gases. Once it's there, it will get pushed upwards and be spat out.

Here's another one that is relevant (I think) to those people running Precision turbos. I originally used commercially available oil drain fittings, and encountered smoke out the exhaust that people seem to comment on about PTE setups. To their credit, PTE do a very direct/specific tutorial on their site, and on YouTube as to their turbos requirements on drains. It mostly relates to the shape of their drain port, and I did not find any compatible setups that could meet their requirements. So we made one, and used hose and fittings as large as we could physically fit. Yes, there were routing problems, and yes, there were concerns about heat. But this setup does work, and no smoke. I do not like that we were put to the test to fix this issue (PTE should have a specific fitting made/supplied with their design to avoid dramas), but it tells me things about people who simply whine online rather than get a competent fabricator, and be prepared to work out the issues. This is a good turbo IMO. How it compares to competitors is open to discussion but I'm not complaining. The oil feed filter is visible in pic.

The can plumbed to the RHS of sump is effectively only an expansion chamber. This one was a rushed afterthought and needs more work. No diversion baffle in the scraper plate sheet metal, and oil was not prevented from being pushed up the hose. Once it's in the hose, a bit of airflow can make oil go up the 500mm and out a similar filter (but using a 40mm pipe). Oil losses were probably in the order of 1-200mm, but it goes everywhere. The RHS can is mounted under my remote brake fluid reservoirs, general design is simple and probably about right. No brake booster - earlier pics in this build show it's running floor mounted pedals with bias adjust. Again, not relevant to road cars. Pics will follow. But this is one mod I think is very very useful in venting air from the crankcase, and allowing oil to flow back downstairs rather than be trapped upstairs and leading to pump cavitation

I'll do my best to give clear idea of the approach. Might need a few more pics but the following few are from various stages of development. There is a log of crankcase pressure, but with a max of 2kPa and engine revs in 6-7000 range and MAP 230kPa it doesn't show much. Really just showed me that the setup I've run is able to push air out without big restriction against flow. These few shots show the original LHS can that was configured with feeds from the RB26 cam covers with baffle kits. Can has an internal baffle, and a drain/vent to/from the sump. No one-way control of airflow. Sheet metal in the sump provides a diverter to discourage oil trying to push up that hose. All lines are big diameter, and the breather is via a 50mm filter. The scalloped out piece in the can is required to allow the big turbo drain hose to be routed without problems. The yellow sump shows 2 x AN fittings, one plumbs to the LHS can, the other to the non-Neo head drain. Big internal diameters to provide easy passage of air or oil, whatever was being passed up or down from head to sump. Choice on the RHS was for a barbed fitting, as much for compactness in a tight area as anything else. I'll get a pic or 2 of that up at some point, plus a reasonable description. LHS, in operation showed that there was no oil pushing through the cam cover vents into the LHS catch can. The hoses were more or less dry internally after running. The conclusion was that majority of blow by gases in the crank case were not pushing up the rear of the block, but were able to take the path of least resistance via that "drain back" straight from the sump. How did I conclude that? Ran a brand new white sock on the filter, and there was a very light discolouration from oil. So air was passing out the filter, and minimal oil being entrained. The answer to an obvious question - yes it is very tight to package. Fiddly and relevant to track use only.

100% agreement with the NZ Wiring trigger kit. Simple to fit, affordable, and should satisfactorily resolve most scatter. Lithium has indicated lots of success with them, if you want more confirmation

I have only good things to say about the NZ Wiring trigger kit, and their customer service too for that matter. Might not suit the purists who demand crank trigger, but this gear largely sorted the scatter issues that we encountered. The data streams really show very little movement, at least for the rpm and power level we're running this thing at. Upgraded internals were just something that I took the opportunity to do while it was apart. Multiple seasons of thrashing on 25+ year old rods/bolts, and cast pistons told us that gear is very capable, but I had the opportunity and installed higher spec bits. I'm not likely to chase more power (never did from the outset) or rpm. All upgrades I've gone with have been primarily for reliability, and ease of servicing.

View of my drop in sump baffle, just gives better understanding of what work was done, shapes and materials used. I wanted to use perforated mesh with plan to slow fluid movement rather than stop it. Using a bit of information about wave barriers from coastal erosion control installations, and ballast controls in ships. Similar principles, different applications. Video of the second startup after refresh. 20190819_175649.mp4

VAG ignition coils are ready for install, made my own carrier bracket. Quite a lot of work to get that one close to right. Wiring-wise, we will change the sub-loom so that the whole thing comes off the engine with 4 retainer bolts and one harness connector. I have no criticism of the Splitfire coils, but this change was all about easier service - and hopefully the spec sheets are right about stronger spark.

Time for updates. Went with a completely different approach to sump baffling, used a few pics for inspiration and a lot of time in my dad's shed with spare block and crank. Pics will largely show what approach taken. We found there's a lot of different opinions out there, and I'm convinced nobody has the perfect understanding of what goes on in a wet sump RB engine and how to fix oil surge related pressure drops. In essence, there's a drop in centre section with baffle "curtains" close to the sump floor to slow/stop slosh from side to side and forward/aft. OEM pickup head was retained but repositioned roughly central to the sump pan, and 6mm from the sump floor (there was maths in deciding this figure) Also a windage tray bolts up to the crank girdle, allowing about 8mm clearance from the rotating assembly, with oil allowed to fall through a series of slots. Finally, blow-by gases in the crankcase are allowed to vent directly from the crankcase via 3/4 inch lines (located above the oil line) and out to atmosphere via "catch cans" that actually function as expansion tanks to slow air movement before venting. The plan there was to reduce/stop the battle between air heading up to the cam covers and fighting the flow of oil returning from camshafts. While the engine was apart, it got a big update/refresh with new bearings, forged pistons, rings, rods, head service, hone, decked, and nice CAT yellow paint to help spot the source of oil leaks. Oil pump was inspected, deemed fit for service and used again. 2mm shim on the relief spring. Took it to Morgan Park for run-in, and did 18 laps at moderate pace. Logs showed massive improvement in oil control from the previous setup but still not happy, so we stopped and plan to rework that drop in baffle curtain section. Also considering the OEM pickup head needs to be changed. Michelin slicks do generate a fair bit of lateral grip, and it seems that there's a bit of oil climbing to induce cavitation. Oil analysis done for later comparison with bearing inspection when the motor is back on a stand, did not detect bearing material. Interesting to see what the eyes tell us. Side-note to that venting: cam cover vent hoses leading to the catch can were completely dry when inspected. So thinking that the sump vents are very functional. Taking care of details is important though. Diverter/baffling on one side, and not on the other. One can was able to spit oil, leading us to conclude that work's needed to stop oil climbing into the vent under lateral load, then easy enough carried upwards 500mm to be ejected from the can. Car is not too slow for a 2wd boat, beat my PB by 1.5 seconds with max 55% throttle and boost 120kpa. Currently assessing best course to address issues, but it's clear tyre grip plays a big role in this. And stopping oil slosh in a wet sumped car takes very good understanding of the mechanical issues that occur, + just how dynamic the events inside the engine are when on track. We're fortunate to have good data logging capabilities, and support at the track from JP Tuning.

What turbine housing size - also single/split pulse + gate setup? Perhaps drop something into the RB25 dyno results page Strong result.

What interests me is their bearing arrangements. How they work, how long they last (high speeds required to push that air mass), and what Garrett will do (or not do) to make them economically serviceable. Those who ran the early spec GT series with non serviceable BB cores and temperature intolerant plastic bearing cages were left to buy a new unit rather than rebuild.

Mark you'd probably want to speak directly with the guys who suggested RB25 pistons and see how they went, what problems if any occurred. And talk with engine builders who do this stuff with any regularity. See what they say. Can confirm RB30E pistons are a no brainer, cheap, and do a great job. Mine ran over 8 seasons, track only without problems. Actual CR I achieved was 8.38:1, measured by cc, not calculated. It had plenty of off idle torque. If you're thinking E85, we did back to back dyno test and from 98 to E85 went +75hp at the same boost. So even if at 8.2 - 8.4 CR range you will achieve gains.

Turbine Inlet Pressure aka EMAP Exhaust Manifold Absolute Pressure

OEM tank is in the best position for distribution and safety. I think a fuel cell is more practical for serviceability, but a hell of a lot of work to get right from a mounting and location standpoint. Also better to have the tank divorced from the car's interior for safety + scrutineering ease. I'd use Holley fuel mat rather than go with a surge tank. Definitely get your thread back up, and post a few pics.

Reasonable start to the 2019 Morgan Park Super Sprints C Series. K circuit (3.0km) in 1.25.3, knocked off 2 seconds from PB. And improvements to the standing start first lap pace meant aggregate time for the 3 lap runs far better. First event I have cracked the top 10, at P9. Happy with the achievement, given high ambients (35 degrees) and rusty driver not high commitment. I'll put it down to newer rubber and a rear geometry tweak. 2018 only saw one event entered, got a shock with just how erratic the oiling system was performing after getting a Bosch motorsport pressure sensor installed and logging. The data said bad things, and corrective (hopefully) action taken. RB26 cam covers with baffle kits, catch can drain back reinstalled, crankcase pressure sensor installed, and baffled/gated sump upgrade installed. New main and big end bearings installed while the sump was out. Oil pump inspected, all good to continue running. Oil of choice now Penrite HPR30. To be fair, bearings were from the original 30DET build, and had done service over consecutive seasons from 2011. No journal damage, but big end bearings 4,5,6 were slightly scuffed and evidence of inadequate film strength. Not too concerned about that, more focused on eliminating oil system related engine failure. Data trace from Round 1/19 shows massive improvement, although oil pressure does fluctuate markedly. Big deceleration events, and strong lateral G off corner exits were associated with the fluctuations but we're thinking the nature/magnitude/length of time won't hurt the bearings. Next time engine out will be when we find out. Post event comp check, max variation of 7psi across all cylinders so quite happy there. Also for info of people interested in crankcase pressure, I saw a max of 2kPa blips on a couple of logs where inlet MAP was 270kPa. Rest of the time it was zero. The signs don't point towards any huge blowby issues, but I do have a 50mm breather on the catch can so that's all very free venting and hard to build meaningful pressure against the flow. Later in the season I should have the VAG ignition coils installed, and get a log of EMAP vs boost. Point of note, all the above is not focused at more power, just ensuring reliability at the power level we're running.

Tidiest and most reliable solution is to re-route outside the engine bay. Get it right away from the heat source. It's one of those mysteries why the factory routed outside on the right hand, and kept it inside on the left hand side.

Flares looking great!

If you're not brand-conscious then consider Garrett, Borg Warner, Precision, Master Power, Kinugawa. If you want one built specifically for you, Melbourne based then talk with Hypergear. As to sourcing them, there's plenty of comments throughout this forum where to look. Possibly won't be a lot of direct experience with Porsche engines on a Skyline-centric forum, but if I recall correctly those early spec 70s - 80s air cooled engines were (by RB standards) lower revving and fairly low compression pumps. But they did run a solid hit of boost and performed strongly if you could keep them in a boost friendly rpm range. If you're looking to boost a high-comp donk, best be speaking to people with Porsche experience, and considering how you're planning to fuel and tune it. Could be a great experience, would like to hear more as you go along. Being Euro the engine will no doubt have some demanding requirements, but the turbo choices will be broad.

Agree RB26 is over rated. Those results very good numbers, depending on what level of responsiveness (thinking about EFR crowd). Real message I'm seeing is "nothing fancy" can make good results. Make sure the bases are properly covered (turbo, mani, gate, exhaust, inlet, fuel system, tune) and it's possible to achieve the goals. Not revving the tits off the stock engine might keep it alive longer too.

3082 + 0.82 will do what you need on track. As Bob suggested, you've got it, should use it. It's the rest of the car setup that will be the challenge. Getting that 34 into and through the corners efficiently is much harder than getting it to pull off the corners