WazR32GTSt

i don't know exactly... the tuner/dyno operator should know what they are doing...

how long do these cruises go for? they sound good, i might have to consider coming

i had a dog and his name was BINGO!

180kw at the front wheel on an excel with just a turbo and 'extractors'? stock exhaust, no intercooler, no ecu upgrade... riiiiiiiiiight... i think it would have to either be HEAVILY modified, or it didn't happen got a dyno graph?

how efective is up to the opinions of those that have tried it responses so far? almost as good an an EBC so, let's say it goes something like the following: %effectiveness at removing wastegate creep: bleed valve - 60% this boost controller - 90% EBC - 100% worth $28? i think so... but saying that, i have not installed mine yet and hope the above is how it goes!

hmmmmm stock R33 GTS? about 90-100rwkw i would say how long you had the car? i would suggest selling it and just buying a turbo car rather than the hassle of an engine swap... you will find this is the most suggested option, and will provide the bigger brakes, LSD, 5-stud wheel pattern etc. that comes with the turbo car and not the NA... but having said that someone put a 4.5L V8 in his NA R33 :whackit: (his username is NA_R33) so its up to you... Warren.

hey daniel, with this trans service you have quoted us for $225, does a 'flush' mean you are running something through it? or is it just removal and replacement of fluid? i am more after just replacement of fluid then change of filter and sump gasket. i spoke to my (old) mechanic when i was down in melb and he thought it might have included a treatment as well for that price... if yes, then how much for just a fluid change? cheers, Warren

if you are going to put an 80mm throttle on the car, then it would make sense to make sure ALL the induction piping is, at minimum, 80mm or else i don't see the point my mate with an NA 300zx put on ported throttle bodies when he got his heads ported. They made a nice difference, but he kept all the induction sizes the same so it made sense interested to see the result... keep us posted

mate, did you read my post?? :confused: its as simple as that! no, there won't be any more torque, no there won't be any more power, yes it will block airflow to the radiator unnecessarily no turbo = no intercooler needed case closed.

well the spring is set to a tension so that the ball can only be opened by a certain amount of boost pressure. Before this pressure is reached, the ball and spring prevent ANY compressed air from getting to the wastegate thus prevent wastegate creep. essentialy by the time the wastegate sees boost, you are already at your desired boost level Warren.

so has anyone found where to purchase a 'cat replacement pipe', and how much do they cost pre-made?

i had it done in melb at a place called chipcontrol (www.chipcontrol.com.au)... it was written by someone else for someone else's car (the guy who's car it was written for was shivam, called 'deorbit' on the forums). he told me about it and it only cost $150 to get it done, so meh. obviously it was written for a different setup that's why i run rich shifts have not changed at all, and as far as i was aware the auto features are not affected by the chip, only fuel and ignition or whatever it is written for... hmmmm so you're making good power with the auto box, what's up with my setup?

and its not a bleed valve.. it doesn't bleed any air... it basically provides resistance to the air to stop it getting to the wastegate so you start with no resistance (ie bolt fully out)then wind in as you increase boost. starting with screw fully in will start with maximun boost and you will lose turbo very quickly.. Warren.

so why don't you??

5 grand, hey? car's completely stock? well the response you get will vary but here's what i think based on what i have done myself, and what i have read: 1. get a dyno run, check AFRs, check condition of engine $110 2. full service: oil, trans fluid, diff fluid, plugs $400? 3. cat-back exhaust: 3" mandrel bent. custom made. $600 4. front/dump pipe: off BATMBL for $250 5. high-flow 4" magic cat $500 6. bleed valve: wind boost to 12psi $50 7. FMIC: $400 8. FMIC piping: $300 9. dyno run again to check the AFRs and make sure its safe $110 10. turbo: HKS GT2530 and exhaust manifold $2000? 11. tune ECU $600 BUT you're 17 so i would factor in some life insurance if i were to do that... alternatively you could spend about 1k and maybe do options 1-6 to the car and put the 4k left over towards a GTR when you're older...

1. the ambient temp was about 15deg 2. the car made 132rwkw at 14deg inlet temp if its 15deg outside, even with a FMIC surely i could not be seeing 15deg at the inlet manifold? would have thought realistically the inlet air would have been about 20deg but if i were at a dyno day instead of having booked tine on the dyno the probe would be elsewhere and definately not measuring 14deg... maybe the probe wasn't even hooked up? and it was jsut set at 14deg? hmmmm

1kW? 10kW? 15kW?

mine came without a spoiler the mechanism in the boot is different as it holds less weight up than a boot with a spoiler

reason i asked is that when i got my car dynoed it was about 15deg outside, and the temp was measured at the intake manifold, so the real temp getting to the cylinders but on dyno days i see them placed at the air filter and temps of 30deg so let me rephrase my question... - dyno in shootout mode - car in same workshop, same day, same time of day - car gets power measured with IT set to 15 - then car gets power measured with TI set to 30 same figure?

g'day i have a question about "dyno dynamics" dyno's and their settings... i have seen that the intake temp is the main setting that seems to vary from graph to graph when different people put their power figures up so my question is... what would the power difference be for a car run with an intake temp of 14deg versus an intake temp of 30deg on the settings? (assuming everything else is constant...) would this be significant, or just a couple of killowatts? obviously its not an issue, i was just thinking... (its almost exam time so i have plenty of time on my hands and will do anything to procrastinate!) cheers, Warren.

i've already bought and recieved it my ebay username is the same as my SAU username... the quality looks great and i'll be keen to compate it to my GFB bleed valve i currently have. stay posted for a comparison (when i have time to eventually put the thing in!) what else do you 'cook up' back there in your workshop? PS you should look into selling these on the forum for sale section... the guy who owns the forums is PranK. If you PM him and tell him you are a business then all you have to do is donate to the forums and you can advertise here. i'm sure you would sell a HEAP of controllers through here, especially with the reviews you are getting!

hey man thanks for the great product how did you hear about us? they have been gettign rave comments and i have bougt one waiting to put on on my car my questions: - are you makin these at home or are you a business? - is the ball bearing stainless steel? someone mentioned his rusted... - do you test each one before you send it out? cheers, Warren.

what's your mechanical experience? not sure how different the set-up is to an rb20, but for me it takes: 1 x flathead screwdriver (un-do 2 x hose clamps) 1 x set of plyers (take off some hoses) 1 x ratchet set (undo the elbow of the crossover pipe) 1 x allen key (undo the coil cover) 1 x 8mm socket and screwdriver atachment (to take off coils) then you're at the plugs! if you have done it many times then 45-60mins if you're new at it then maybe a couple of hours and some swear words! good luck! Warren.

sorry mate, i thought you were saying your mate had put an itnercooler on his NA car my bad...

he's a businessman!