bnr#@

greenline lists them on their site

Too many variables to compare car to car. The biggie is driving style then as no two drivers are the same... PFC tuned open loop or closed? O2 sensor good or old/dodgy? dyno/day/all sorts. $500 on safc is well worth it, it will clean up the fuel mixtures and give a very noticeably nicer driving car all round. It is by no means neccessary but its as good as can be had for the budget available. Must say here that this is ofcouse all assuming that there is no problems with the car anywhere that need to be fixed.

Other then you missed the point entirely.... No, not to add more boost but to fix the air fuel mixtures. Sure the standard ecu will cope with 10 psi but it will cope with it by dumping fuel in to compensate for the increase in air flow through the engine. At the current price of fuel I would want the greatest efficiency possible. Being able to safely add 2psi is just a by product of the tuning which is always good, you dont have to add more boost if you dont want to. Who charges 500 for tune? 200 is max, wouldn't pay more then 500 complete for safc and the tune.

To all those people who are saying that it won’t make a difference I would like to ask what drugs you are smoking? Really... First you have taken a Jap performance car which is meant to run on 100 octane fuel and stupid cold weather and brought it to Oz with 98 octane fuel and stupid hot weather, so the tune is already out because it’s meant for Japanese conditions Then you modify the engines breathing ability by changing the intake, exhaust and intercooler to more free flowing items. Then for good measure you force more air into the engine via more boost. So in effect you have an engine that’s breathing much more air and running on worse fuel then it was intended to run on. The standard ecu simply can’t cope with this, it was never designed to and just dumps fuel in as it doesn’t know how to react. An safc is by no means the best thing but it works perfectly fine to correct all this mess as that’s what it was intended to do, I am yet to see/hear of a car that has not made a substantial improvement to power/drivability/fuel economy from touching up the fuel maps using an safc. For whoever insists on a front mount, get over the wank factor. The best intercooler is the smallest you can get away with for the power goal, in this case the r34 side mount intercooler is perfect as its small enough to keep good throttle response but big enough to support around 200rwkw. Going any more will simply hurt throttle response and increase lag slightly as the turbo would have to fill a greater space of air before that pressurized air gets to the engine. In my opinion BDC70T is a front/dump pipe, 12psi and tune with safc away from a perfect budget street setup. With these mods it will be fast, smooth, responsive, and still reasonably good on fuel

If its spiking you need to loosen it...

Any more specs? Standard radiato? Standard or n1 pump? history?

Realy depends on the buyer, to a collector then yes but to someone who is going to mod it to hell and back then no. If you are not in a hurry to sell then put a premium price up and see what you get

As already said, finish off the exhaust and get an safc 2, then get it dyno tuned, will be the best power improvement you can do and may even end up using less petrol for it.

Mine did the same and for a few days I figured its just the seder unit, next thing i know it spun a bearing.... turned out the sender unit was fine... Check it now!!!

That is just a straight pipe...

Would love to know an answer to the input shaft question to if anyone has one...

That wouldnt be a 787B mazda le mons car now would it?

Why do people keep winging about parity in f1? It’s the pinnacle of motorsport, why should they have restrictions? The cars should be using the best and most advanced of everything that they can come up with. If a team is loosing then they need to make a better car or continue to loose... If people say "to keep the cost down" well if you want to play at the top then you need to bring the appropriate $, why should other teams who can afford the development suffer for the team that wants to play the game but cant really afford it.... F1 should not be about making all cars even, it should be about the ultimate speed whatever way possible.

If you still have those enkei's in a month or two ill buy them

Had the exact same issue but more severe last week, mine was vibrating badly after 20Km. Found the centre bearing in the tailshaft had seized over time (car has been sitting arround for a while). I ended up replacing the whole tailshaft as it was easier than fixing (prob cheaper to). If you can lift your car up and get underneeth see if you can move the tailshaft up and down where the centre bearing is, if it feels tight then its stuffed. My car is a 32GTR btw

Greenline?

The best and eisiest to install is the nismo pump, rated at 276l/hr and a direct swap

That is so old school cool!!! Good luck with the sale

Get the Nismo engine overhaul kit from greenline... about 600 delivered and comes with all gaskets/washers/silicone, and a nismo 87mm metal head gasket

They are the best, towed my gtr the other day, had a good chat Everyone I know used them

They are exactly the same

Or do what I did and get your parrents to do it for you I had to go somewhere in an emergency just as we got started...

The drifters love of the nardi wheel is that its perfectly round so you can let it slip through your hands easily when you want to unlike wheels that have a straight part to them which makes your hands move. They are just sumple and effective for that perpose, and gripy to. Not shure what the road/track cars have them for....

Stock housings. Check the rear wheels with a magnet though to see if they are steel or not, if not then they are dead stock

I would have to argue that... true that it is ideal to have a 3 point brace for that brace to be as rigid as possible however you are not after multi directional rigidity in a lot of situations. For instance the plain old strut brace works wonders and is a 2 point brace (in most cases anyway). It works fine because its job is to tie 2 points together and stop the distances between those two points getting greater or smaller hence preventing suspension geometry change through chassis flex... same would apply underneath the car for chassis flex as I would imagine that when the car goes over a ripple strip or just leans hard under heavy cornering on one side that the chassis would have a tendency to flex in the middle. By tying the 2 chassis rails together with a brace (or 3) you would help prevent this flex...