Chris Rogers

nah ring me in the morn. details in sig. they didnt do it right.

R33 remove ashtray remove 3 screws unclip panel around shifter remove two more screws below radio area. unclip main surround unclip wiring from: clock,hazards,rear demist , A/C temp sensor, electric mirrors remove main surround. remove 4 screws from radio assy. unclip HVAC and radio wiring. contact me for pocket,harness and antenna adapter remove 4-8 screws from radio and put yours in place. reassemble.

press and HOLD 1 with the car running on timer, it will chirp, diasble the sensors but still look at the doors and if one is opened it will shut the car down and sound the alarm. once the car times out it will chirp again and bring the sensors online. make sure it works on ALL doors. I have seen too many of them that only trigger on the drivers door. if it DOES NOT chirp when you do the above they DID NOT turn the function on. if you have the book enable option 13. you will need to TOTALLY disconnect the timer for this to work. let me know how you go.

if you can keep your foot out of it and drive sedately it will be MUCH better than a rotor. I have a wagon that will chew 60lt of 98 octane petrol in 290k if I drive it wild. sedate it will do 550 on the same tank.

how are you setting the alarm? car on , timing down - PRESS 1 and HOLD or press 1? answer that question first and I'll help you with it.

one of them would do in that car. get the mono version of the pioneer amp to run it. (can't think of model now but there are two of them - get the biger one.)

you need a relay on the trigger lead. find a 5 pin relay (jaycar DSE etc.) and wire in this fashion 85 - gnd 86 - radio trigger in 87 - +12 battery (from amp supply) via 5A fuse 30 - amplifers. give that a burl.

bingo.

no screen can stay. refit a local tuner and antenna system for best results. there are guys up here ripping them out and refiting screens for some stupid reason. no need. fir me a PM and I'll discuss price with you. this will be a digital box. what year is your car btw?

fair points though I get at least 3 customers a week like this. they bought gear off ebay and they realise that the unit will not work here AFTER they have booked me , I have done the job and then realised that the indash DVD they bought that looked like a local one is loecked to region 3 or region 1. the end result is a ticked off customer and no matter what you do they are not happy because the $400 alpine dvd uint they bought and paid you a decent whack of cash to fit doesnt work.. I import various items from japan myself for the local grey market cars so I'm well aware of the import costs exchange rates and markets. as for living in other countries - I have. I'm well aware of the costs of maintaining a car here and in the USA. when averaged out they are quite close in cost.

and when he buys a DVD based unit and gets it fitted and it doesn't play his DVD or doesnt work who does he blame?? support the local industry and it will support you.

if all you are doing is a small 4 ch then the 8awg kit will do fine. the 6 awg kit will have more speaker wire in it though. as for AWG structure: lower number = bigger cable = less resistance ( you had 'more' in your points) for power that works well. for speakers - anything over under 16awg (numerically) to me is overkill. questions - ask/ring me

yes it can! it will be a refit as the OE gear will NOT work here. I keep the stuff on hand to do it.

in which case they would need the unit sent to them. I kind of doubt they would release that code and the programmer they made to do it to just anyone.

only thing is finding a dash for it and the drivers airbag. it would be good for parts though. other thing would be how hard was it hit? IE engine damage or just structural? still bet it goes for over $10k.

if its a firmware upgrade someone has a schematic for the unit or they have a consult 3 ($15k usd.). as an aside the schematics of the TDV3100 are around the net somewhere waiting to be unearthed.

who is doing the compliance for it ? (pm me if in Qld.)

that has a infiniti badge on the rear of it I do believe. who's doing the compliace.

+1. unless its a drag racing battery with 3 sets of terminals (summit racing market them leon.) they are 16v.

we do them differently. I run 12awg power (via 15a fuse.) and earth into the door ,wire the module at the switch and trigger the module off the lock wire. no strange things happen that way

no idea without looking at the car..

uh -- ok?? I would look at the alternator output myself. thats just a LITTLE bit high..

pulp, yours is on the way

unplug the timer. the rest will work fine. DO NOT HACK THE WIRING FOR THE ALARM!!!

35. 34's are becoming common place now. highly suggest the V35 area as well.