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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. (based on my own experiences only).. when I replaced my viscous hub my car took much longer to overheat with the Worley radiator. Now that I've replaced the radiator with a PWR radiator my water temperatures don't even go past 100 degrees when I flog the shit out of my car on the track lap after lap after lap. If I were to remove the fan entirely, I predict my car would overheat on the track based on what you've said.
  2. lol... I'm not that good at sales.. I'm in IT anyhow, you can save a few dollars running your own wiring/flex sensor + gauge (if needed)... means less shop time at Benny = more money for brakes, tyres, clutch, gearbox, samsonas, etc..
  3. Temp fix, increase idle duty and the values of the proportional and integral of the closed loop settings. At least car won't be "like a dog"
  4. best to run an IAT after the FMIC and see if it's cooling effectively
  5. check your base timing and if it's sync'd with the ECU when the timing is locked (for syncing)... I've heard stories where Haltech E11s going nuts and the triggers angles magically get corrupted. If it's whacked, I suggest going back into your tune and seeing if the trigger angles are correct.
  6. if you can maintain your coolant temp always around 80 instead of 90 that means if it does get super hot you have about 20 degrees before it boils instead of 10. Does that make sense?
  7. I disagree... cooler exhaust temps = more dense.. right out the turbo temps would be say 700~900 degrees, at the axle back I'm sure those temps are no where near it..
  8. btw... you could experiment yourself Also... you could use the Nistune board to convert the signal from the flex sensor to 0-5v for your stock ECU Also... I can supply you the Nistune board to convert the signal lol OR.. you could buy a Zeitronix gauge/sensor kit and use the 0-5v output and connect it to: Evo 8 4-plug ECU: pin 42 Evo 8 3-plug ECU: pin 64
  9. dual not duel lol does full flex, mafless, and launch control from E8 onwards.. some say full flex "may" work on E7 ECUs.
  10. @Manuel Kasko buy braided aftermarket water hoses from Kando/Kingugawa for the stock R33/34 GTS-t turbo.. they fit perfectly and you don't need to spend 10 hours trying to align the hard lines to your turbo. You'll thank me later
  11. See if there's friction with your stock fan.. the OEM viscous hub leaks/wears out after time and stops spinning the fan at the rate it should thus causing the water temps to sky rocket. Also re-bleed your system, totally worth it. front sensor is for A/C side sensor thing, no idea.. could be a crash sensor.. I have one too but never bothered to trace it back also I see you have a R34, replace the OEM themostat with a R33 one.. will lower the running temp from 88 to 82.. don't worry it won't affect your tune.. most tuners/oem maps/after market base maps, etc.. remove all fuel compensation after 70 degrees.
  12. those figures are fine, I wouldn't be too fussed... just ram loads of boost into the motor till it goes pop
  13. you can force it to brap a little, as I've explained earlier nothing braps as good as a set of 272+ lol
  14. oooo yezz wonder who owns that car?
  15. dose is king, especially with 6+6 blade compressors! GTX style compressors don't dose as well
  16. Suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu tutuutututuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu Although the braps won't be as distinct as say a set of Procams or 272+
  17. he's a busy man, alternatively get a halaltech ize can tune for you on Mark's dyno
  18. you can nearly make Poncams go "brap brap brap" purely for wank factor.. just drop the idle timing down to about 8~10 and lean out the AFRs hahaha (everyone reading this, please don't do it)
  19. Delete the SAFC, it's probably bending too much of your AFM signal and giving you grief. Too bad you're not in Sydney, would have recommended a Nistune.. if you still want the board, I'm able to get them below RRP for all SAU members.
  20. Benny at Benchmark Solutions or take it to Mark at MRC.. he's the best tuner I know, honest, shows me his maps, happy to share his experience/knowledge unlike everyone else.
  21. better change it man, because your RB20DET is very fast.
  22. Got details back from the supplier, unfortunately the Australian stock is just the standard Intima SR, which are 0 to 700 degrees... but..... if there's enough demand, we can ask them to order them in the Type-D range, which are 250 ~ 850 degrees - however they're made to order.
  23. No, just learn/set the TPS low and high voltages. No need to adjust anything. You haz a Haltech, use it like it should be used
  24. Yes free oil, change every 3000km (because free and not full syn)
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