Dose Pipe Sutututu

dose is king, especially with 6+6 blade compressors! GTX style compressors don't dose as well

Suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu tutuutututuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu Although the braps won't be as distinct as say a set of Procams or 272+

he's a busy man, alternatively get a halaltech ize can tune for you on Mark's dyno

you can nearly make Poncams go "brap brap brap" purely for wank factor.. just drop the idle timing down to about 8~10 and lean out the AFRs hahaha (everyone reading this, please don't do it)

Delete the SAFC, it's probably bending too much of your AFM signal and giving you grief. Too bad you're not in Sydney, would have recommended a Nistune.. if you still want the board, I'm able to get them below RRP for all SAU members.

Benny at Benchmark Solutions or take it to Mark at MRC.. he's the best tuner I know, honest, shows me his maps, happy to share his experience/knowledge unlike everyone else.

better change it man, because your RB20DET is very fast.

Got details back from the supplier, unfortunately the Australian stock is just the standard Intima SR, which are 0 to 700 degrees... but..... if there's enough demand, we can ask them to order them in the Type-D range, which are 250 ~ 850 degrees - however they're made to order.

why not?

No, just learn/set the TPS low and high voltages. No need to adjust anything. You haz a Haltech, use it like it should be used

Yes free oil, change every 3000km (because free and not full syn)

Ooo delish, very solid settings

RB25DET NEO + head studs, boss motor.

That tuna actually got the stock map, and added timing to it...... derp derp derp.

More like his tuner is a tuna.. aka a moron. There's too much timing in the map and there's a high chance it's beyond MBT for each of the load points. I've asked for logs in 3rd, will look at them soon and advise him on next steps. Those timing figures are for e85 and even so that's considered high.

ahh the values go "retarded" when you enable knock feedback, essentially when the ECU detects knock through the OEM knock sensor in those "retarded" cells it will read from the knock map.

Thanks for the map, so yeah... the amount of timing in that map is just crazy..... this is why it won't spool early.

Wow solid motor, imagine it had a turbo on it... hmmmmmmmmm

you're alive!!!!

send it to me, I am a Nistune tuner send it to johnny (AT) trak-life.com

you can do the same thing with a MAP sensor, I tune both work with both. If it's purely a street car and you're on a budget get Nistune... whatever you do, do not get a PowerFC. If money isn't an issue, get a Haltech, leave your AFM there just use the internal MAP sensor. Nistune will support R35/HPX AFM, will support flex setups, has launch control supports boost control etc... it's wonderful bit of kit.

Those HPX AFM don't suffer too much from reversion, also will read more air than a Z32 (provided it's in the correct tube and meshed both sides). I recently did a S15 with a R35 AFM and it was hitting 5V before it was even making 200kW.. turns out the tube was too short and wasn't meshed (create some uneven flow and turbulence). I advised the owner to mesh both ends and extend the tube/pod. Made a healthy 238kW towards the end with the injectors at 99% DC.. then turns out, he didn't remove the OEM pressure relief valve inside the fuel tank.. now that's removed it's going to go back on the dyno for Round 3. This is a S15 with Nistune, on full flex if anyone is using a R35 or HPX AFM... I suggest this:

Replace that Z32 with a HPX R35 afm.. they run better than a Z32 setup on the pressure side.

Is your VCT working?

Haltech doesn't use the AFMs, you still need to run a vac feed to the ECU or run an external sensor (which I prefer to do). There's an option to run the afm, but why would you? I don't think anyone has every bothered to even try that (including myself).