Dose Pipe Sutututu

Get Plazmaman rails, PM me if you need one. Sir_RB loves his one

Small boost, BOV meh.. Running 2 bar, then yeah why not.

have you pulled out timing yet? it will seriously wake up your turbo

if you're using the serial out on the wideband to the adaptronic then don't worry, the ecu will know the sensor is offline.. if you're using 0-5 to out.. and analogue in.. when the wideband fails ecu will dump in fuel and think it's leaning out

UEGO is a little older and uses the LSU4.2 sensor.. hwoever has serial out which is perfect for direct integration into the Adaptronic ECU instead of using the 0-5V analog output which is inaccurate.

Bragging rights. 370kW here, has about 27psi into it and used for track. Usually run about 23 to 25psi on the track. Motor has 350000km+ still going strong. Just pushes a bit of coolant after 10 hard laps at 27psi. Seems ok about 23 to 25psi, all it has are ARP non 2000 studs. 250kW is a walk in the park.

Ahh no

Nistune is easier to setup than a Haltech. Do you even have a wideband on the car? there's a chance it's too lean and stalling/leaning out... also you need to play with the idle control PIDs to get it to idle + work on the fuel cut/recovery table? did you adjust the correct injection dead times etc.? There's much to adjust and tweak before it runs properly. Nistune however, just drag the K and TIM till the car stoiches the rest is easy.

Put stock cams in, add more boost instant response/power It's not an Evo/4G63T, no need for 272 brap cams.

Wut... HKS EVC 5/6 to AVC-R? You serious? HKS EVC can hold boost ruler flat, here's a good example of a car I just tuned.

try turning your gain down so the EBC is more lazy and increase your SET to higher anyhow, these twin ports are great for controlling boost.. just remember to set your EBC to external waste gate mode to use the twin port http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Product-Categories/Universal-Fit-Internal-Wastegate-Actuators/IWG75-Twin-Port-Universal-150mm-14-PSI.html

use a turbosmart dual port actuator.. I tuned a SR20 with a GTX2867 using that actuator and the boost was pretty flat.. not ruler flat as an EWG but flat enough Just fuel system couldn't keep up, ripping out the junk DW300 and replacing it with a Walbro 450L

In the AVC-R, when you're in the Setting Menu, hit next next.. it allows you to fine tune duty cycle by RPM (which is defined in the NE Menu). See where boost is bleeding off and add DC to those RPM points defined by the NE Points. Who's tuning your car?

If you're on a SR20.. you will find the low timing dip when torque ramps up will cause the turbo to over boost a bit.. a touch hard to iron out.. unless you're on E85 and can dial in more timing.. Either that control your boost solenoid by DC vs RPM.

Slightly on topic, slightly off topic... Last Saturday I tuned a non-VCT SR20 with basic Poncams, a proper twin scroll setup using a GTX3071 with 0.83 rear housing. Car made a healthy 351kW @ 27psi with more room in it.. I had to stop because I wasn't confident the motor would hold up (i.e. bang, snap rod, basic rebuild by Forced Motorworx about 7 years ago). 22psi by 4050rpm and 27psi by 4200rpm. Now imagine that same setup on a RB25DET with VCT. https://www.facebook.com/traklifeofficial/photos/a.604327549596378.1073741827.555908561104944/1316197368409389/?type=3&theater

@PranK hey man.. good job on the update however the top AdSense banner isn't responsive so on mobile when you hit the hamburger menu it doesn't come up.. instead you need to scroll all the way to the right. Google offers full responsive banners now, so you don't need 2x sets of banners like in the past and switch between them at certain breakpoints.

yeah sell the cams, spend the money on doing a proper TS setup... much more gains there.. and more boost.. don't be a pussy

Get a bigger dump

Yes, always true. Your essentially shifting the motor's efficiency to the right. Whoever recommended you longer duration cams for response should go read a few text books and educate themselves (saying that very nicely). You want some more response, I suggest going to a twin scroll setup, ie divided housing, proper twin scroll manifold, twin gates.

Yeah it will make a difference, it's called more lag with longer duration cams

food for thought (feel free to ignore). advance the intake around 3~4 degrees, retard the exhaust say 2 run less timing, like 10 degrees less that whatever you have at the moment lean it out coming onto boost so at 0kpa you're say 13:1 by 100kpa you're about 12.5 past 100kpa 12 past 120kpa under the 12s

gib yew breast pry $150 boot/spoiler $80 airbok/filter/snorkel

Take some timing out.. try at 0kPA at 30 degrees and drop it so by 0.5bar you're under 25 and by 1 bar you're under say 20.. I think you have too much timing for premium unleaded fuel... and potentially noses over MBT affecting your spool and causing knock.

How much timing are you putting into the motor coming onto boost?

RB not really SR yes, the S15 I was working on, we stripped a thread, well the entire thread snapped off/out clean from the block as soon as we got to the ARP torque levels. Ended up using a timesert to fix the problem.. Not a fun thing to have happen.