Dose Pipe Sutututu

Pintle cap, eBay them cheap as chips Only the top area snapped so it will be fine, the seals won't fall through so don't be too worried. I personally wouldn't change them

Need displacement

the mid muffler is a basic hurricane round 3.5" muffler, the resonator has been cut off same cat back (HKS Priest) and the sides trimmed till the pipe work became 3.5" the rear muffler is a massive HKS Priest muffler which isn't really 3.5" more like 3.25" but good enough. Funny enough, when the gate cracks the exhaust gets even quieter.. (it's plumbed back after the cat) like so (old pic, all the shit is wrapped up and also the wiring has been cleaned up):

Once you get 2x mufflers & a resonator to remove the "bark" from the exhaust it's pretty quiet.... the tyre/road noise is the loudest thing in my car at cruise. On the loud pedal there's "some" noise but you can still hold a full conversation without raising your voice.

FWIW.. NPC actually uses Exedy parts Exedy Pink = gay Exedy Silver = good NPC (Which is just Exedy) = bettererererer

Yep I run a 3.5" system and I can tell you it's quieter than 90% of the skylines out there.... 3.5" dump -> 3.5" cat -> 3.5" mid muffler -> 3.5" resonator -> 3.5" muffler

Needs more boost man!

Didn't I say head studs a page ago?

Are you on E85 or 98RON? E85 doesn't "really" knock

ARP studs are cheap Changing studs (without removing the head OR cams) is also a cheap/easy process... Just change studs and add in as much boost as possible, i.e. still no more power can be made #e85lifey0

JDMyard, but be prepared to pay Honda prices.

well I am making the assumption Cooling Pro is of the same quality as ASI.. I went from ASI/Worley to PWR and water temperatures were rock solid... although the Dim Sim spec radiator did it's job during cooler track days

you can I'll screen shot for you when I rememeber LOL

I go to either Taleb or St George Tyres.. although I like Taleb more as they're more polite and willing to have a chat where as St George is wham bam thank you mam not to mention hard to park get there.

from memory all fuel compensation is turned off after water temp > 60 degrees

I believe jet was asking if you've pre-loaded up the actuator... also when the RPM was graphed, was it derived from road speed or through an inductive pick-up?

Only if a street car with mild track work.. if you're starting to do 10 laps flat out then you'll find those cheaper alternatives don't hold up well.

that's how I did mine it's not even visible and doesn't get much airflow but with track work now zero mist or overflows where as in the past I would wet an entire rag.

PWR better, these days Koyo radiators are made in Indonesia and they're not of the same calibre as a decade ago.

they're a 4.0L I would prefer a 2JZ-GTE with VVT-i

Yes Just use an old AT cooler from an auto skyline and hook it to the return hose.

also WMI has that nothing nothing then HOLY FUUARKKK torque ramp because your timing jumps from nothing to a gazillion as you inject WMI.. Great for street/drift/drags etc.. not so great for track because it just fries tyres haha

time for a nistune

use FC-edit and re define the curve for the AFM.. then scale injectors, then start car and adjust fuel table You will need a wideband o2.. if you're dicking about with the controller and/or fc-edit without a wideband o2 at a minimum.. stop now and bring it to a tuner.