Dose Pipe Sutututu

you should adjust the dampers as needed.. there's no need for a workshop to adjust them

Nah.. Samsonas is where it's at

Yeah I usually drive to the track on 5/12 front and 6/12 rears with about 80L of extra fuel ontop of the 60L in the tank + 2x semi wheels (I drive down with front street tyres and rear semis) + a full tool kit lol. It was on the spongey side, but not crashy and floaty.. still very composed.

UPDATE time betches! Car doesn't dose well anymore (new turbo) Car has literally no traction now (running normal street tyres, Nitto NT05) Anyhow enough of the silliness, last night was the first time ever I have taken the R33 shit box on Parramatta Road with the MCA X-R.. at first I thought I would pop a few discs out of my spine however it was quite the opposite. As the car is now being used for more daily use (gave our daily to the missus' sister) it's on 98RON and also has a set of Nitto NT05 on 18x9 wheels... no silly stretch or poke homo shit too. Front dampers were set to 3/12 and rear dampers set to 4/12. Very surprised that the ride quality was decent, considering i'm on 10/7kg springs which are considered a little on the stiff side. I would dare say it was more comfortable than the basic Bilstein Shocks & spring combo I had on the car before. So there you have it, you can have comfort and handling all in one package.

Adjust the dampers? not rocket science

Probably could get a generic 76mm pro series core at a good price Holla if you're ever interested.. also can get good prices on DBA rotors, Hel lines and especially Intima Pads!

oooots! need Plazmaman cooler

You pretty much rolled home and didn't load up the box. You'll be fine.

It's fine, just ram in more boost

Mark or Yauvz?

this is where I face palm myself water/meth will richen up mixtures, as you're injecting a combustible.. I have no idea why I said it would lean out mixtures.. probably all the ethanol use has fogged my mind haha

Lol it feels like any other S2

or just buy a whole new turbo like a GTX3071

You still need more fuel.. so if you're at your so called limits then you'll need to upgrade your fuel system. As you inject water/meth your mixtures will lean out, thus requiring you to ram in more fuel. Basic rule, tune for under 11:1 AFR for Gasoline, and inject water/meth to you bring your mixtures back to high 11s. Then start advancing timing... in your case you don't need to advance timing as you're already running so much for Gasoline I'm suspecting you're nosing over MBT for that rpm vs. load.

Get GTX3576 with a divided rear housing, and a proper twin scroll manifold.. put in some headstuds and screw about 2 bar into it.. should see close to 400kw+ on E85 Your injectors are too small too and you need a new fuel pump.

TBH.. 40th Anniversary isn't anything special.. I had one before, and sold it.. didn't go for much more than a 1996/1997 S2. If your mind is set on fixing your car, unplug the airbag module under the centre console and start replacing all the airbags, clockspring, followed by the 2x front seat belts. Once that's done, install a new module (make sure the battery is disconnected). Then plug back your battery, then standing in a safe position where the airbags can't deploy and hit your face/head/neck etc. flick the car onto 'ON'. Check the SRS light, it should come on.. do it's checks then turn off. If it remains on/flashing, then look up the error codes and replace the outstanding items. "Usually" the clockspring & crash sensors can be reused.

youse need dis: http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/page.asp?productid=47

nothing beats a real mechanical diff that's predictable, i.e. an aftermarket mechanical.. because even the factory mechanical diff is aids.

Since the box is out, install a PPG hollow tube. The OEM likes to twist then shatter then will lunch the front diff, and box.

Feed the ECU digital signal for the flex and 0 to 5V for the fuel temperature.

most of the time (from my experience) you don't need to replace the crash sensor.. however on newer cars yes.

use the 0-5v feed to ECU.. log that!

TBH.. if you're going down that path, you're better off wrecking the car/selling the car and getting another R33 S2. Nissan will tell you what is best practices... I would personally replace it all myself, however that's me personally.

needs more plazmaman parts

+ get a RB25DET for your R32.. and don't get thet rubbish HKS2530